We've all been there before, pondering, "What is the best gauge wire for jewelry making?" While looking at gauge numbers, it's easy to assume: "the larger the number, the bigger the wire." However, the truth is quite the opposite: "the larger the number, the smaller the wire."
This counterintuitive sizing stems from all jewelry wire sizes beginning at the number 0, and each pass through a drawing die progressively decreases its size.
So, a wire labeled as 22-gauge has been pulled through a drawing die 22 times, making it progressively thinner. The gauge number corresponds to the diameter of the wire, which is the distance straight across its center.
In North America, the size of the holes in a wire-drawing die is based on a geometric formula developed in 1855 by the machine-tool company, Brown and Sharpe. This progression of 39 sizes, known as the American Wire Gauge (AWG), helps determine what is the best wire for jewelry making, ensuring precise selection for your projects.
All of the wire stocked by WireJewelry is labeled using the AWG. Other parts of the world may use the British Standard Wire Gauge (SWG), where the sizes are just a hair larger than those of the AWG. (For example: AWG 20-gauge = 0.813mm and SWG 20-gauge = 0.914mm.) For the purpose of this article, all references below relate to the American Wire Gauge (AWG).
We've put together a great reference for those moments when you're caught wondering, 'What is the best wire for jewelry making?' Find the perfect match for your next project with our detailed jewelry wire gauge chart.
These ultra-fine wires, with diameters ranging from 0.013 to 0.006 inches (0.32 to 0.16 millimeters), can be likened to sewing thread in terms of thickness.
Ideal for coiling, weaving, knitting, and crocheting, these wires are also perfect for working with lightweight, small-holed pearls and seed beads.
For delicate designs, silver jewelry wire or gold-filled wire for jewelry making offers excellent flexibility while maintaining strength.
However, due to their delicate nature, these wires are prone to breaking if kinked.
Image: Spiral Wire Earrings by Mei Tan - Click to View Pattern
Measuring .016 inches or .41 millimeters in diameter, this thin wire is amazingly strong. In a round shape, it's commonly used for coiling around larger-gauge wire.
It's versatile for knitting, crocheting, and weaving, as well as attaching small-hole pearls and beads to crafts. For a polished touch, consider working with sterling silver crafting wire or gold-plated wire.
Image: Dyer's Mushroom Netted Hoop Pendant by Jennifer Brooks - Click to View Pattern
The 24-gauge wire, measuring 0.020 inches or 0.51 millimeters, is ideal for both sculpted and traditional wire jewelry designs.
It's excellent for crafting frames and settings for smaller cabochons and faceted stones. Use silver beading wire or gilded wire to add a refined look to jump rings, head pins, and wrapped briolettes.
Image: Criss Cross Wire Wrap by Karen Meador, Ph.D. - Click to View Pattern
Measuring 0.025 inches or 0.64 millimeters, this is a go-to wire for traditional jewelry designs like bracelets, rings, and pendants.
With its balance of strength and flexibility, jewelry-grade silver wire or gold wire material makes this gauge versatile for coiling, weaving, and braiding. It's perfect for creating small clasps, hooks, and individual jump rings.
Image: Adobe Sun Necklace by Debbie Blair - Click to View Pattern
At 0.0285 inches (0.723 millimeters) in diameter, this wire offers durability for designs requiring added strength, such as prong settings and ear wires.
Experiment with flat metal wire or decorative silver wire in this gauge to create bold pendants and intricate patterns that catch the light.
Image: Boho Beaded Ring by Erika Pal - Click to View Pattern
Measuring 0.032 inches or .81 millimeters, 20-gauge wire is excellent for crafting double-wrapped hooks, head pins, and other durable components.
Square wire in this gauge works well for heavier jewelry like bracelets or neck collars. Choose artisan silver material or gold crafting wire for timeless, elegant designs.
Image: Swirly Teardrop Pendant by Elizabeth Schultz - Click to View Pattern
At 0.040 inches (1.02 millimeters), this strong, versatile wire is ideal for larger hooks, clasps, and wire-wrapped beads.
18-gauge sterling silver wire is particularly popular for its durability and shine, making it a favorite for statement necklaces and bracelets.
Image: Xs and Os Beaded Wire Bracelet by Erika Pal - Click to View Pattern
This thicker wire, measuring 0.051 inches (1.29 millimeters), is suitable for creating neck wires, freeform rings, and bracelet bases.
For a sleek, modern finish, consider working with ribbon wire or flattened silver wire.
Image: Elegant Pendant by Oksana Truhan - Click to View Pattern
The heaviest wire on this list, 14-gauge wire measures 0.0641 inches (1.63 millimeters) and is ideal for bold statement pieces like cuffs and neckpieces.
Opt for planar wire or gold-filled crafting material to elevate these larger designs while maintaining durability.
Image: Textured Stacked Rings by Judy Larson - Click to View Pattern
Choosing the best wire gauge for your jewelry projects is essential for creating durable, professional-looking pieces.
Whether you're crafting delicate earrings with ultra-fine wire or designing bold bracelets with thicker gauges, understanding the characteristics of each wire size empowers you to bring your vision to life.
At WireJewelry, we offer a wide range of high-quality options, including silver jewelry wire, gold-filled wire, and flat wire for jewelry making, ensuring you have the perfect material for any design.
Don't forget to explore our Jewelry Wire Gauge Chart for quick and easy reference while working on your projects.
With the right tools, materials, and a bit of creativity, you'll turn your ideas into stunning handmade jewelry that stands out.
Visit our shop today to stock up on your wire essentials and make your next creation truly unforgettable!