Quick Stone Ring

Skill Level: Intermediate

Technique: Rings

While working on a variation of a wave ring, I wondered how I could add a faceted stone. Obviously the design quickly took on a mind of its own, and the following pattern is my happy result!

Materials

• 21-gauge square half hard silver-filled wire, 1 foot
• 21-gauge square half hard gold-filled wire, 1 foot
• 20-gauge half round half hard silver-filled wire, 7 1/2"
• 1  rectangular or marquise-cut faceted stone

Tools

• Flat nose pliers
• Wire cutters
• Automatic wire twister or Pin vise
• Ring mandrel
• Rawhide mallet
• Tape
• Ruler
• Fine point marker

Instructions

1. Straighten, measure and then cut both square wires into two pieces, each 6" long. Individually twist each of the 6" gold-filled wires. Make a bundle with the twisted gold between the silver filled wires and tape near each end.
   
   
2. Mark the center of the bundle at 3", and then mark 1/4" to each side of the center mark. Straighten the 20-gauge half-round wire and use it to wrap the bundle from one 1/4 mark, across the center, to the other 4" mark.
   
   
3. Place the back of the bundle (where the wrap wire ends are) against the ring mandrel, one size smaller than the desired finished size of the ring. Wrap the bundle around the mandrel, so the bundle ends cross one above the other as shown.
   
   
   
4. Keeping the ring shape tight, carefully remove the ring from the mandrel. Where the wires cross above one, use the remaining 20-gauge half-round wire to tightly wrap the center of the ring, 3 times to show on the front.
   
   
   
5. At each end of the ring bundle, separate the wires into two groups of two wires each; bending the outer two on each side about 45° away from the ring as shown, while leaving the center two wires in each group straight.
   
   
6. Place the back, center of the stone on the center of the ring. One pair of wires at a time, respectively bend each pair of bent wires completely around the stone. When the pair of wires comes back to its original side, wrap them once around the ring shank; trim and tuck all ends.
   
   
7. Working with the remaining pair of two wires, gently curve each pair over the front of the ring shank, so they cover the first wraps made to lock the stone in place and are heading in opposite directions, as shown.
   
   
8. Now bring each pair under their respective ends of the stone, back to the shank and wrap them once or twice around the shank; trim and tuck all ends. Place the ring back on the mandrel and gently hammer all of the wraps into place, as well as the shank to further harden the wire.
   Tip: If your stone feels loose, use your pliers to gently bend a design into the wires on the top of the stone to tighten it in its setting.
   
   
   
   

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