Wire Temper and Jump Rings

by Judy Larson

In this tip, Judy Larson shares how discovering chain maille changed the way she approached jump rings and wire temper.

After making a set of Byzantine chains, which use a lot of jump rings, she began to realize just how many jump rings were going into all of her projects. What really stood out was how much she had spent on them over the years. That realization became a turning point and led her to start making her own.

Instructions

How I Store My Jump Rings

The majority of my jump rings are made using a metric set of mandrels, separately labeled and stored in baseball card sleeves in a three-ring binder, easily accessible on a shelf close to my work surface.

Judy Larson's Wire Temper and Jump Rings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, , storing jump rings

Judy Larson's Wire Temper and Jump Rings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, , binders of jump rings

Coiling Wire with a Drill for Consistent Jump Rings

Using a drill to coil wire gives you more consistent tension and uniform jump ring sizes. It also saves your hands from strain; something that becomes more important the longer you work.

Wearing a heavier leather glove is a smart idea. It protects your hand and helps you keep a steady grip on the wire without having to squeeze too tightly. It also adds a layer of safety in case the wire slips or snaps.

Do you have a favorite mandrel size you stick with for jump rings, or do you switch it up depending on the project?

Judy Larson's Wire Temper and Jump Rings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, , coiling wire for jump rings

Understanding Wire Temper and Its Impact on Jump Rings

The temper of your wire has a direct impact on how tightly it coils and what size your finished jump rings will be. Softer wires conform more closely to the mandrel, creating tighter coils and slightly smaller rings. Harder wires resist bending and tend to spring back, which results in looser coils and slightly larger rings.

It is a subtle difference, but it matters when you are aiming for consistent sizing, especially in chain maille or other weaves where uniformity is important.

Do you adjust your mandrel size or wire gauge based on temper to compensate? Or do you tweak your tension while coiling?

Wire Tempers I Keep on Hand (DS, HH, FH)

Dead-Soft (DS)

Fine Silver
Sterling Silver
Copper
Gold-filled
Brass
Argentium

Half-Hard (HH)

Copper
Argentium

Full-Hard (FH)

Gold-filled
Argentium

Other

Niobium

There are certain gauges and tempers I always keep on hand.

My wire stash includes 24 gauge and finer, as well as 16 gauge and heavier, only in dead-soft temper. In my work, I find that I use all available tempers in 22, 20, and 18 gauge wire.

When to Use Full-Hard, Half-Hard, or Dead-Soft Wire

What are the different tempers used for?

Full-hard wire:
Ideal for jump rings that will not be soldered because it holds its shape well. Keep in mind that 18 gauge and finer rings can still be pulled open under stress, so doubling jump rings for added strength is often a smart choice. Full-hard wire is also excellent for ear wires since they need to maintain their shape through regular wear.

Half-hard wire:
A great middle ground. It is more flexible than full-hard but holds its shape better than dead-soft. This makes it a good choice for jump rings that may need some manipulation, as well as a sturdy core for wire wrapping and weaving.

Dead-soft wire:
Very easy to manipulate and perfect for tight coiling around mandrels when you need exact ring sizes. Its malleability also allows you to correct kinks without breaking the wire. Because it is so soft, jump rings can change slightly with handling, so temper and sizing become especially important when precision fit matters, such as in bracelets.

Finding the right combination of temper and ring size often takes some experimentation. Small differences can affect overall fit and durability, especially in pieces that see frequent wear.

Judy Larson's Wire Temper and Jump Rings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, , bracelet

Measuring Jump Rings for Accurate Fit

Measuring the outside diameter (OD) instead of the inside diameter (ID) can be a practical and consistent approach, especially when working with small jump rings. The OD is often easier to measure accurately, and even tiny variations in size can add up quickly.

Small differences in jump ring diameter can be the difference between a bracelet that fits perfectly and one that feels slightly too loose or too tight.

Comparing dead-soft and half-hard jump rings side by side clearly shows how temper affects final size and fit. Material properties directly influence the finished piece, and paying attention to those details can significantly improve overall craftsmanship.

Pro Tip: Store jump rings made with different tempers and types of wire separately.

Judy Larson's Wire Temper and Jump Rings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, , jump rings

Judy Larson's Wire Temper and Jump Rings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, , jump ring storage

In Conclusion

Understanding how wire temper affects coiling, spring-back, and final ring size gives you far more control over your finished jewelry. Small adjustments in gauge, temper, and measuring method may seem minor at first, but they can dramatically improve consistency, strength, and fit.

When you begin making your own jump rings, these details become even more important. The way your rings coil, how they respond to tension, and how accurately they fit together all impact the success of your final chain.

If you are ready to put these principles into practice, be sure to read Part 1 of the Making Your Own Chain series, where the process of creating and assembling jump rings is covered step by step. It pairs perfectly with this discussion and will help you build chains that are both beautiful and durable.

Judy Larson's Wire Temper and Jump Rings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, , making-chain-part-1

Materials

Wire - Wide variety of Gauges, Metals and Hardness

Shop Now

Add All Items to Cart

Tools

The Quad Jump Ring Former

DUR-1312

DUR-1312
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $388.00
Gold Club Price: $291.00

Add to Bag

Hand drill

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

12 Inch Stainless Steel Ruler

G7-30

G7-30
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $2.97
Gold Club Price: $2.23

Add to Bag

Mister Twister Hand Coiler, 8 Piece Set, Long Mandrels

Jewelrytools - Product ID WIR-120.05

Jewelrytools - Product ID WIR-120.05
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

Add All Items to Cart

Category: Findings
Technique(s): General Education

Reviews

<br />
<b>Warning</b>: Undefined property: stdClass::$instructor in <b>/home/wirescul/public_html/content/compiled/%%2D^2DF^2DFCB18E%%jewelry_making_tips_technique.html.php</b> on line <b>1086</b><br />

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!