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What Shape of Wire Should I Use to Make Jewelry

by Dale Armstrong
If you've already explored wire tempers and gauges, you're well on your way to mastering the basics of wire jewelry making. Now, it's time to connect the dots-let's talk about wire shapes and how they affect your designs.

In this guide, we'll focus on the most commonly used wire shapes in traditional, cold-connection wire jewelry-the kind that doesn't involve soldering or glue. These shapes are essential tools for any artist who wants to create strong, beautiful pieces with just wire and hand tools.

Quick Note: When we talk about making jump rings in this article, we're referring to individual jump rings used for connecting components or chains-not for chain maille. That's a separate art form with its own techniques and experts!

Round Wire: Why It's a Staple in Jewelry Making and How to Use It

Round wire is by far the most common and affordable type of jewelry wire-and for good reason.

All wire starts out round, so it doesn't require reshaping during manufacturing. That makes it cheaper to produce and easier to find than other shapes.
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Why Round Wire is a Go-To for Beginners

  • Available in all gauges, especially popular sizes between 28 and 14 gauge jewelry wire

  • Inexpensive and widely used in nearly every kind of wire jewelry

  • Versatile for wrapping, coiling, binding, and more
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    Twisting Tips:

    While a single round wire won't show much visual change when twisted (it just gets harder), you can twist two or more round wires together for beautiful texture and strength.

    This technique works especially well for making:

  • Bracelets

  • Heavy collars

  • Decorative wire accents
    • Pro Tip: Twisting multiple wires doesn't just add style-it also creates a sturdier structure for larger, more dramatic pieces.
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    What Can You Do with Small-Gauge Round Wire?

    Small-gauge round wire-especially 28, 26, and 24 gauge in dead soft temper-is incredibly flexible and perfect for detailed, delicate techniques.
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    Common Uses for Thin Round Wire:

  • Viking Knit Chains: Great for making flexible wire chains that can double as cabochon pendant frames

  • Wire Crochet: Use with beads, pearls, or charms to create textured bracelets and necklaces

  • Ornate Coiling: Wrap around thicker round wire (like 21g, 20g, or 18g) to build frames for focal beads, or add flair to rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings

  • Weaving & Braiding: Create intricate woven or braided wire patterns with strength and beauty

  • Wrapping Briolettes: Securely wrap delicate-topped gemstone beads and crystals
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    Don't Forget About Round Half-Hard Wire

    Smaller gauges in half-hard or medium-hard temper are also useful for:

  • Lightweight Headpins

  • Attaching Small-Holed Beads (like pearls) to larger, structured pieces

    • For example, you can "string" pearls on a thin round wire and connect that line of pearls into a thicker pendant or bracelet frame-adding elegance and stability at the same time.
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    Best Uses for Medium-Gauge Wire (20g-21g) in Jewelry Projects

    21-gauge and 20-gauge round wire are true multitaskers in jewelry making. Whether you're working with half-hard, full-hard, or dead soft temper, these sizes strike the perfect balance between strength and flexibility.

    Popular Uses for 20g-21g Wire:

  • Ear Wires (all styles)

  • Individual Jump Rings

  • Lightweight Hooks and Clasps

  • Pins for Brooches

  • Custom Eye Pins & Headpins
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    Bonus Techniques to Try:

  • Spirals: In dead soft or medium-hard temper, both gauges are perfect for crafting smooth, uniform spirals

  • Wrapped Loops & Links: Works great for rosary-style chains or decorative links

  • Sculpted Wire Designs: Use dead soft wire for freeform sculpted pieces or to build wire cages for tumbled stones

  • Wire Jigs: These gauges are ideal for shaping on jigs, offering both control and form-holding ability
    • Pro Tip: If you're unsure where to start, 20g and 21g wire in half-hard is a safe bet for most functional components.
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    Large Round Wire (18g - 16g)

    18-gauge and 16-gauge round wire are your go-to choices when you need strength and structure in your jewelry. These heavier wires are best used in a dead soft temper-because they work-harden quickly as you shape them.

    Best Uses for Large-Gauge Round Wire:

  • Neck Wires & Collars

  • Bracelet Frames

  • Strong Clasps & Hooks for heavy jewelry

  • Durable Jump Rings to secure larger or handcrafted components
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    Creative Techniques to Try:

  • Hammer It Flat: Use a chasing hammer to harden and flatten the wire

  • Add Texture: Try an embossing hammer to create decorative dimples and patterns

  • Wire-on-Wire Coiling: Use these gauges as a base wire to coil smaller wires around for an ornate effect

  • Design Idea: Large-gauge wire is fantastic for creating freeform rings, earrings, and statement designs that feel bold and organic

    • Hammering Tip:
    If you're using medium-hard colored craft wire, be careful when hammering-especially with tools like chasing hammers. The colored coating may chip or flake, and those imperfections are tough to fix.
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    Extra-Heavy Round Wire (14g - 12g)

    When it comes to serious strength, 14-gauge-and occasionally 12-gauge-is the heaviest wire most wire jewelry artists work with. These thick wires are best used in a dead soft temper, since they harden quickly as you shape them.

    Where to Use 14g and 12g Wire:

  • Upper Arm Bracelets (cuffs that hold their shape)

  • Hair Combs with decorative wirework

  • Tiaras & Crowns

  • Torque-Style Neck Pieces (structured, open-ended collars)
    • Pro Tip: These heavy wires act as strong structural bases, ideal for building large-scale or ceremonial jewelry designs that demand durability and presence.
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    What Is Square Wire and How Is It Used in Jewelry Making?

    Square wire is a favorite among wire artists who want precision, structure, and symmetry in their work. It's especially popular in:

  • Traditional wire jewelry designs (best in half-hard temper)

  • Sculpted designs (easier with dead soft wire)

    • How it's made: Square wire starts as round and is pulled through a square die, reshaping it into clean, flat-sided edges.
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    Unique Advantage:

    Square wire can be twisted in any temper to create a stunning "diamond-cut" effect-adding sparkle and texture to your designs.


    Working with 24-Gauge Square Wire:

  • In half-hard, it's great for making: Tiny jump rings, and small earrings & pendant frames (for cabochons or faceted stones)

  • In dead soft, it's ideal for: Sculpting delicate settings for very small stones

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    22-Gauge Square Wire

    If you're looking for one square wire size that does it all, 22-gauge half-hard is your go-to.

    This gauge is widely used in classic wire jewelry designs because it offers just the right balance of strength, shape retention, and workability.

    What Can You Make with 22g Square Wire?

  • Framed Cabochons

  • Fashion Rings

  • Structured Frames for pendants, earrings, and more

    • Whether you're building a sleek ring or wrapping a gemstone, 22g square wire gives you clean lines and consistent control-making it one of the most versatile options in any wire artist's toolkit.
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    21-20 Gauge Square Wire

    21-gauge half-hard square wire is a surprisingly versatile choice-and yes, you can even use it to make ear wires! When twisted, it creates a textured surface that helps prevent earrings from slipping out-ideal for added security and style.

    What to Make with 21g Half-Hard Square Wire:

  • Slip-resistant ear wires

  • Bracelets, earrings, and necklace components

  • Clasps, hooks, and headpins

    • Great for Men's Rings Too:

    For more robust designs-like classic cabochon rings for men-21g or 20g half-hard square wire offers the durability and strength you need.
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    Dead Soft Options for Sculpting:

    In dead soft temper, both 20- and 21-gauge are excellent for:

  • Sculpted cabochon pendants

  • Wrapped earrings

  • Select ring patterns that call for a more malleable wire


    • Whether you're aiming for structure or sculptural freedom, these gauges give you room to create with confidence.
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    18g - 16g Gauge Square Wire

    When you need serious durability in your wirework, 18- and 16-gauge square wire in a half-hard temper is a powerful choice. These larger gauges offer the stability and spring needed for heavy-duty pieces.

    Ideal Uses for 18g-16g Half-Hard Square Wire:

  • Thick, sturdy bracelets

  • Stress-bearing handmade components

  • Strong clasps and hooks

    • Get Creative with Dead Soft Temper:

  • Add texture easily with a hammer or embossing tool

  • Work-hardens quickly, making it ideal for sculptural designs that need to hold their shape

    • These heavier square wires combine strength and style-perfect for bold statement pieces that still maintain crisp, clean lines.
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    12g - 14g Gauge Square Wire

    12- and 14-gauge square wire are among the thickest wire sizes used in wire jewelry. These hefty wires are usually worked in a dead soft temper, allowing you to shape them before they quickly harden into place.

    Perfect for Structural Foundations:

  • Arm cuffs with bold, sculptural form

  • Base frames for crowns and tiaras

  • Torque-style necklaces

  • Neck wires that support intricate wirework or gemstone settings

    • These heavy square wires serve as strong foundationsfor your most dramatic designs-ideal when your piece needs to be both eye-catching and sturdy.
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    What Is Half-Round Wire Used For in Wire Jewelry?

    Half-round wire is a specialty wire used primarily for binding square wire bundles together-think of it as the "wrapping wire" that holds your design in place.

    Best Uses for Half-Round Wire:

  • Wrapping square wire bundles in pendants, bracelets, rings, and necklaces

  • Twisting for texture-a single half-round wire can be twisted into a corkscrew pattern for unique earring designs

    • Gauge Tips:

  • Dead Soft (20g-22g): Great for delicate wraps, but may require many turns to hold larger bundles securely

  • Half-Hard (16g-20g): Stronger and better suited for functional wraps in structural pieces


    • Pro Tip: Keep in mind half-round wire is half the thickness of the same gauge in square or round wire. Never use matching gauges for wraps-they won't hold securely.
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    What Is Pattern Wire and How to Use It in Jewelry Making

    Pattern wire adds instant flair to your jewelry designs-thanks to its decorative surface, which is pressed with textures like vines, flowers, or geometric shapes during the milling process.

    It's available in copper, sterling silver, and gold-filled, and comes in a variety of:

  • Widths (the top-facing dimension)

  • Thicknesses (important for pairing with other wires)

    • Standalone or Combined-You Choose:

  • Heavy-gauge pattern wire can be used on its own to create bracelets or neck collars

  • Pair it with square wire (especially half-hard) to build layered bracelets, necklaces, or rings with added texture and depth

    • Important Fit Tip:

    When combining pattern wire with square wire, match the thickness of both wires. This ensures even wrapping and prevents one wire from overpowering or slipping over the other.

    When matched correctly, pattern wire becomes both a structural and decorative highlight in your designs.
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    Wrapping It Up: Your Wire, Your Way

    This article isn't meant to be a strict rulebook-it's a starting point. Think of it as a toolbox of ideas to help you better understand the different shapes, gauges, and tempers available in jewelry wire, and how they can open up new creative possibilities.

    Whether you're:

  • New to wire jewelry and just learning the ropes, or

  • An experienced artist looking to explore new techniques or avoid costly trial and error,

    • I hope this guide has helped clarify questions, spark inspiration, or give you a new direction for your next design.

    Keep experimenting, keep creating-and most of all...Stay Twisted!!

    Materials

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