Twisted Forged Cuffs

Skill Level: All

Materials

• 6-7" of wire depending on wrist size
  For this project I used 12-gauge copper square wire, but you may substitute wire and shape of your choice. This project is appropriate for 14-gauge wire and thicker.

Tools

• Chasing hammer
• Bench Block
• Bracelet Mandrel or Bracelet Bending Pliers
• Butane Torch
• Solder Tweezers
• Soldering Surface (like a kiln brick or charcoal block)
• Heavy Duty Flush Cutters
• 2mm Letter stamps
  
• Star design stamp
  
• Period stamp
  
• File
  
• Ruler
  
• Plastic or rawhide mallet
  
• Steel wool
  
• Liver of Sulfur
  
• Table Vise
  
• Vise Grips

Instructions:

1. The measurement for the cuff is about 1/2-2/3" smaller than your wrist size. My wrist measures slightly less than 7" so I cut my wire just slightly under 6 1/2". The balls on the ends of the wire will also take up some length.
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2. Grip wire securely in cross lock soldering tweezers. Ignite the torch and heat the bottom 1/2" of the wire. As soon as the wire begins to glow, move torch underneath the wire so the tip of the flame touches the end of the wire. The wire will become molten and a ball will start to form. When the ball measures about 2-3mm remove torch and quench wire. Be sure to work over a fireproof surface, as it is possible that if you overheat the wire the ball may drop off the end. If this happens just repeat the steps to ball the wire. There is no need to pickle the wire at this time.
   
3. Find the center of the cuff and measure out 1" on both sides and mark using a permanent marker. Place on a bench block and use a chasing hammer to flatten this section.
   
   
4. Place the cuff on a bench block and stamp the cuff with your design of choice using metal stamps and a brass mallet. For this cuff I used an initial, small star and period stamps.
   
   
5. To form the cuff, shape around an oval bracelet mandrel.
   
   
   
6. Refine the shape and work-harden the cuff by placing it on the bench block and tapping lightly with the chasing hammer. At this point you may wish to pickle the cuff to remove firescale. I used the firescale as part of my patina process and dipped the cuff in liver of sulfur to completely darken. I used fine gauge steel wool to polish and tumbled the cuff for 30 minutes to shine and work harden.
   
7. Twisted Cuff: Cut square wire to desired size for cuff. Clamp one end of the wire in a vise and the other in a pair of vise grip pliers. Turn on torch and focus the flame on a 1" segment of the wire just below where the wire emerges from vise.
   
   
8. As the wire begins to glow, hold the torch steady with one hand and twist the vise grips clockwise with your opposite hand keeping a tight tension on the wire as you do so. The wire should be heated enough so that the wire twists easily. If it does not twist right away, stop and heat a bit more and then try twisting again.
   
   
9. Make about 5 twists in this direction. Move the torch about 1/4" to 1/2" down the wire, heat and twist the wire in the opposite direction. Continue heating and twisting in alternate directions along the entire length of wire. Shape wire into cuff as before.
   
   
   Congratulations! You've made your first set of Twisted and Forged Cuffs.

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