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What is Rolled Gold Wire

by Dale Armstrong
Question:

What is rolled gold wire? Does it hold up better than any of the products Ive used before or does it fade like gold plate? Eventually, I`d like to start working with real gold, but that`s not going to be for a long time. Should I just go for the gold filled wire instead?

Added information supplied by Judy Ellis
Instructions
Answer:

Gold-Filled Wire Explained

Gold-filled wire is essentially a core of base metal, usually pure jeweler's brass, encased in a thick layer of gold, typically 14k, but sometimes 12k or 10k. The gold and base metal are bonded together through heat and pressure to form a durable, solid material.

In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) defines quality standards for gold-filled items. For example:

10KGF (10 Karat Gold-Filled) means the gold layer must be at least 1/10th of the total weight of the item.

12KGF means the gold layer must be at least 1/20th of the item's weight.

In Europe, the same concept is referred to as "rolled gold."

The key benefit is that all visible and skin-contacting surfaces are genuine karat gold. Unlike gold plating, the gold layer on gold-filled wire does not chip or wash away easily.

With regular, everyday wear, a 14/20 gold-filled jewelry piece can last anywhere from 5 to 30 years, offering an affordable yet long-lasting alternative to solid gold.
Rolled gold 'plate' however, is just as it is called: plated. When a base metal is coated with a thin layer of gold via electrolysis it has been 'plated'. If the base metal used is sterling silver and 18K gold is bonded to it, it is called Vermeil. Gold plate will wear off quite quickly, and the base metal below will tarnish.
14k gold-filled items contain 50,000 to 100,000 times more gold than regular gold plating, depending on the manufacturer, and are 17,000 to 25,000 times thicker than heavy gold electroplated items. I have been using 14/20 gold-filled wire for jewelry making for many years and have never had any pieces returned due to issues with the gold wearing off or coming loose. (Yes, I also occasionally work with 14k and 18k solid gold, but that can be extremely expensive.)
Judy's research:

You've probably heard the terms "gold plated," "gold filled," and "rolled gold" around the wire jewelry world, and to be sure you're telling your customers the value of the pieces you make using gold-filled wire, let's get familiar with each of these terms. With the price of gold, gold filled wire is a wonderful way for you to bring a real, beautiful golden glow to your friends' jewelry collection, without the staggering price of a solid gold piece.
Origins of Rolled Gold and Gold Filled:

In ancient times, gold wire was literally created by rolling. In Ancient Egypt, gold was hammered into extremely thin sheets, then rolled into tight or hollow tubes, and finally shaped to create wire jewelry. Over time, this rolled gold became "filled" with a base metal, such as brass, thus creating gold filled with brass.

Note: The death mask of Tutankhamen, perhaps the finest example of goldsmithing to survive from ancient Egypt and an outstanding example of portrait sculpture, was made from sheet gold.

Perhaps the most impressive piece found in Tutankhamun's tomb is not the mask, although it is the most well-known. The king's gold inner coffin, shown above, displays a quality of workmanship and attention to detail that is unsurpassed. The coffin is made of solid gold, measuring 74″ long, 20″ wide, and 20″ high. The king is depicted as Osiris, holding the crook and flail traditional symbols of kingship.
Dale Armstrong's What is Rolled Gold Wire - , Wire Jewelry Design, Design, Tutankhamen
Modern Techniques:

The modern gold filled wire and sheet metal technique was discovered in 1817 by John Turner, an Englishman, who patented his discovery. This form of gold roared into fashion in the decadent early Victorian Era, but there were no standards yet as to quality or thickness of the gold layer: the line between plated and the thick layer of "gold filled" was fuzzy.

Note: Victorian pendant/brooch made of red and yellow gold which tests as 10K. Courtesy of Milky Way Jewels.
Victoria's son, Edward, became king in 1901, and fashion shifted toward light, delicate, and subdued jewelry styles, influenced by the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts movements. Rolled gold jewelry gave way to intricate filigree designs. However, gold-plated pieces did not fall out of favor for long. With World War I consuming resources such as the then-popular platinum, silver, and of course gold, rolled gold made a comeback in the late 1930s.

By this time, the style was known as "gold filled," and regulations began to take shape. This process involved fusing the gold layer to the base metal underneath, preventing flaking and improving durability.
Dale Armstrong's What is Rolled Gold Wire - , Wire Jewelry Design, Design, Gold Brooch
A few key points about Gold wire:

  • In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission sets the definition as to the quality of gold-filled. For example, if an item is stamped 10KGF the gold must be no less than 1/10 of the item's weight, and 12KGF = 1/20.
  • In Europe, 'gold-filled' is called 'rolled gold'. In all gold-filled wire scenarios, everything that is seen or that will touch the skin is karat gold. The gold layer on gold-filled wire will not chip off or wash off. If a person were to wear a 14/20 gold-filled piece of jewelry every day continuously, the gold would last from 5 to 30 years!
  • Rolled gold 'plate' however, is just as it is called: plated.
  • When a base metal is coated with a thin layer of gold via electrolysis it has been 'plated'.
  • If the base metal used is sterling silver and 18K gold is bonded to it, it is called Vermeil. Gold plate will wear off quite quickly, and the base metal below will tarnish.
  • 14k gold-filled items have 50 to 100,000 times more gold than regular gold plating, depending on the manufacturer, and 17 to 25,000 times thicker than heavy gold electroplated items.
    • Gold and Karats:

    And what does karat mean again? Pure gold is called 24 karat, but pure gold is so soft, metallurgists add metals to gold to make it more durable - but these additives can also change the color of the gold.

    If copper is added, the gold has a yellow or red (rose) tint to it. If zinc is added, the gold becomes white. Gold can have a green tint if an alloy of zinc and silver is added!

    Anything less than 24kt is an abbreviation for what has been done to enrich the gold. 12kt means that there are 12 parts pure gold by weight, and 12 parts other metals. 14kt indicates 14 parts pure gold and 10 parts other metals.
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    • Category: Design
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