What Wire is Best for Earring Findings

by Judy Larson
Ear wires and their many variations are standard components in jewelry making. Just as we have favorite "go-to" earrings in our jewelry wardrobes, we have "go-to" earring findings from which to hang beautiful dangles.

By varying the length, shape and curve of the wire, the design possibilities are endless. Start with basic shapes and work from there.
Instructions
Ear wires are best constructed using 20-gauge full hard round wire. Some artisans like to use 22-gauge wire.

Just be aware that when 22-gauge wire is used, even full hard temper, the finished shape is less stable than if 20-gauge full hard wire is used.

Unless the temper of a 20-gauge wire is changed through heating, the finished ear wire shape does not easily change with normal use as it could with 22-gauge full hard wire.

In a pinch, twist dead soft or half hard wire to harden it for use in making earring findings.
Judy Larson's What Wire is Best for Earring Findings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Findings, Clasps, Components, ear wires
When selling jewelry, it is important to use metals that will cause the least skin irritation. Allergic reactions to pure gold and pure silver are very rare.

When people have a skin reaction to gold or sterling silver jewelry, it is generally a reaction to the metals added to the gold or silver that make for added strength and durability.
The ear wires shown here are made with Argentium silver wire, gold-filled wire, and niobium wire, with niobium the most hypoallergenic of the three.

Argentium silver is a bright white metal that does not contain nickel or other common allergens found in sterling silver. It is both hypoallergenic and antimicrobial.

Gold-filled wire is a more affordable alternative to 10K, 12K, 14K, or 18K gold. It consists of a thick layer of gold at least 5% of the item's weight bonded to brass, making it safe for most people with metal sensitivities.

Gold-filled jewelry can last 10 to 30 years before the gold layer wears down and exposes the base metal underneath.

The natural color of hypoallergenic niobium complements copper beautifully. Titanium, one of the most hypoallergenic metals available, is also ideal for making ear wires.

If you're especially concerned about metal allergies, choose niobium or titanium.
Judy Larson's What Wire is Best for Earring Findings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Findings, Clasps, Components, Argentium silver wire,gold-filled wire,
Judy Larson's What Wire is Best for Earring Findings - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Findings, Clasps, Components, ear wires

Materials

20 Gauge Round Full Hard 14/20 Gold Filled Wire
H4-20FH
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $15.29
  • Gold Club Price: $11.47
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20 Gauge Round Full Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire
H19-20FH
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $7.15
  • Gold Club Price: $5.36
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20 Gauge Round Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire
H8-20H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $6.75
  • Gold Club Price: $5.06
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Tools

WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5
G15-20
  • G15-20
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $170.72
  • Gold Club Price: $128.04
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20 X 15 Inch Padded Work Mat
MAT-620.00
  • MAT-620.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $14.95
  • Gold Club Price: $11.21
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  • Category: Findings
  • Technique(s): Making Findings