Using Square Wire Rings in Chain Maille
by Kylie Jones
Square wire makes rings with crisp edges that add drama to chain maille weaves. The sharp edge going around a curve makes the patterns standout more against the negative spaces.
Instructions
Because rings made from square wire have a sharp inside edge rather than the soft slope of round wire the rings don't fit together as easily so it can be difficult to swap square wire rings into a pattern made for round wire rings. Generally you will need to swap in a ring with a larger inner diameter (ID) of the same gauge or a larger aspect ratio to get a similar look. Fitting bracelets that have tight curves are more of a problem than necklaces or earrings.
If you aren't familiar with aspect ratio check out my tool tip that explains what it is.

You can see the difference in the definition of the pattern from an AR of 5 to 6.6. I like the jumbled messiness of the larger rings for a plain chain but because it is so loose you can't see any details. The smaller aspect ratio of 5 makes a strong hollow tube-like pattern.
Kylie Jones's Using Square Wire Rings in Chain Maille - , Chain Maille Jewelry, Design, using square wire rings in chain maille
The material that the rings are made from also affects how these square wire rings can be used in a chain maille pattern. A ring made from copper has much softer edges than a ring made from stainless steel. When the copper rings are tumbled with stainless steel shot it takes the sharp edge off and leaves a softer more rounded edge. The 2 tighter weaves in these photos are made from rings that are the same size but the stainless weave is much tighter and too stiff to make the curve for a fitting bracelet, whereas the copper having softer edges allows pattern to easily curve around
Kylie Jones's Using Square Wire Rings in Chain Maille - , Chain Maille Jewelry, Design, using square wire rings in chain maille

Materials

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Tools

90 Degree Bent Nose Pliers
G2-66
  • G2-66
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
  • Price: $7.97
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  • Category: Chain Maille
  • Technique(s): Design