Traditional Gemstone Pendant Wrapping

by Dale Armstrong
Question:

When wrapping gemstones, I put the flat side to the front, and the more faceted, "pointy" side toward the back, next to the body. My friend was admiring my work and suggested that they should be reversed to increase the brilliance and not scratch the wearer. I think she is mistaken as I have never seen them done that way. Please tell me the correct way. Thanks!

-Betty in Jack, Mississippi
Instructions
Answer:

Your description really made me smile, Betty I totally get what you mean!

That sharp point at the bottom of the stone is called the culet, and the flat top surface is called the table (see below). Traditionally, the culet forms the back of the stone in most pendants. To prevent this point from scratching the skin, the frame should extend from the top of the stone all the way down to the culet.

One way to do this is to create the frame and then gently push the side frame wires inward about a third of the way toward the back, securing the bottom of the stone firmly in place.

Personally, I have a few buff-cut stones (where the top is rounded instead of faceted), and I actually set them upside-down, with the culet facing up. As the designer, the choice is entirely yours!

P.S. For a great example of these types of settings, check out the Advanced DVD Series!
Dale Armstrong's Traditional Gemstone Pendant Wrapping - , Wire Jewelry Design, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Design, , Gem Diagram

Materials

Entire Advanced Series with Bonus DVD
DVD-ADVset
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $249.75
  • Gold Club Price: $187.31
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Wire
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Cubic Zirconia Gemstones
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Tools

WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5
G15-20
  • G15-20
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $170.72
  • Gold Club Price: $128.04
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  • Category: Design
  • Technique(s): Wrapping, Design, General Education