Top 5 Weaves for Chain Mail Beginners

by Judy Ellis

Chain mail isn't just for armor-it's a versatile technique that's gaining popularity in modern jewelry design. As more resources and tools become available, now is a great time to explore this timeless craft.

Like beadwork and knitting, chain mail has foundational weaves every beginner should learn. Below are five essential patterns-with free tutorials-to build your skills and confidence.

Instructions

5 Beginner-Friendly Chain Maille Patterns to Try First

Before we dive into the details of four foundational chain maille weaves and how they're used in jewelry design, let's get you started with some hands-on practice.

If you're eager to jump in and start making, jewelry artist Marilyn Gardiner recommends these five beginner-friendly patterns. They're a great way to build confidence while learning the basics.

Beginner-friendly Chain Maille Patterns:

- Byzantine Chain Maille Pendant
- Autumn Spiral Chain Maille Bracelet
- Mobius Pearl Drop Earrings
- Venetian Glass Chain Maille Bracelet
- Helm Chain Pendant

Marilyn Gardiner Says:

Curious about adding chain mail to your jewelry-making skills?

This ancient art form-once used for medieval armor-is making a modern comeback. From fresh how-to books to wirework magazine features and jump ring tools designed just for it, chain mail is gaining serious momentum in the jewelry world.

Like knitting has the purl stitch and beadwork has peyote, chain mail has its own set of signature weaves every beginner should know.

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Four Fundamental Chain Maille Weaves Every Beginner Should Learn

Just like knitting has its foundational stitches, chain maille has key weaves that every new jewelry maker should master.

Below, we'll explore four of the most approachable and rewarding weaves for beginners: Byzantine, Double Spiral, Möbius Ball, and Helm (Parallel) Chain.

Byzantine Weave: Classic Elegance Made Simple

Also known as:

Birdcage, Idiot's Delight, or Etruscan Chain

Best for:

Bracelets, necklaces, and charms

Despite its intricate appearance, the Byzantine weave is surprisingly easy to learn.

This rope-like pattern uses repeating 2×2 ring units that interlock in a way that looks like a complex knot-but once you get the hang of it, it becomes rhythmic and rewarding.

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Why the Byzantine Weave Great for Beginners:

Byzantine is perfect for beginners because it builds confidence fast while delivering professional-looking results.

Additional Patterns using the Byzantine Weave:

Byzantine Chain Maille Long Beaded Necklace

Byzantine Chain Maille Pendant

Byzantine Chain Maille Swarovski Crystal Earrings

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Double Spiral Weave: Twisted Rope with a Polished Finish

Also known as:

Spiral 8-in-2 or Rope Chain

Best for:

Bold, wearable chains and mixed-metal projects

The Double Spiral weave creates a twisted helix that naturally holds its shape, making it an excellent next step after learning Byzantine.

It's constructed by threading pairs of rings through previous pairs, forming a repeating, spiraling rope.

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Why the Double Spiral Weave Great for Beginners:

Looks complex but follows a simple, logical pattern.

Stable on its own-doesn't unravel like a single spiral.

Great way to practice consistent ring placement and opening/closing techniques.

Additional Patterns using the Double Spiral Weave:

Autumn Spiral Chain Maille Bracelet

Double Spiral Chainmail Weave Earrings

Möbius Ball: The Rosette That Works Everywhere

Also known as:

Möbius Flower, Rosette

Best used for:

Earrings, pendants, connectors, and focal accents

Unlike chain weaves, the Möbius Ball is a unit-based design where each ring passes through all others in the cluster, creating a flower- or infinity-like rosette.

It's a simple but satisfying technique that delivers instant visual appeal.

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Why the Möbius Ball is Great for Beginners:

Very easy to learn-just open and link one ring at a time.

No complicated steps, making it great for building confidence.

Perfect for small-scale designs and practicing clean ring closures.

Additional Patterns using the Möbius Balle:

Mobius Ring Spacers

Mobius Pearl Drop Earrings

Helm Chain: Flat, Lacy, and Beautifully Balanced

Also known as:

Parallel Chain

Best used for:

Flat bracelets, chainmaille sheets, and elegant designs

The Helm Chain combines rings of two different sizes to create a clean, flat pattern. Large rings sit in parallel pairs, connected by smaller rings and encircled by "orbitals"-decorative large rings that don't pass through anything but are held in place.

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Why the Helm Chain is Great for Beginners:

Teaches how to use multiple ring sizes in one project.

Easy-to-follow pattern once you complete the first few segments.

Flat and flexible, yet strong and structured.

Additional Patterns using the Helm Chain:

Helm Chain Pendant

Venetian Glass Chain Maille Bracelet

Final Thoughts: Why These Four Weaves Matter

Each of these four beginner weaves offers something unique:

Byzantine teaches you about unit construction and repetition.

Double Spiral helps you understand directionality and tension.

Möbius Ball sharpens your precision and creativity.

Helm Chain introduces mixed ring sizes and layout awareness.

Together, they provide a solid foundation for your chainmaille journey. As you grow more confident, these patterns can be expanded, embellished, and combined into more intricate designs.