The Best Wire Temper for Rings
Question #1:
I recently purchased some beautiful faceted stones from WireJewerly, and now I want to wrap them into a ring using gold filled wire 22-gauge dead soft. Everything goes together well (thanks to your DVD lessons), but when I get to the prongs, they don't stay where they are supposed to be, and the stone slips out easily. Do you have any hints as how you get your prongs to stay in place? Thank you for your answer.
-Gloria in Kettle Falls, Washington
Question #2:
Which wire temper should be used for making rings (in general), dead soft or half hard?
-Barbie in Girard, Ohi
I recently purchased some beautiful faceted stones from WireJewerly, and now I want to wrap them into a ring using gold filled wire 22-gauge dead soft. Everything goes together well (thanks to your DVD lessons), but when I get to the prongs, they don't stay where they are supposed to be, and the stone slips out easily. Do you have any hints as how you get your prongs to stay in place? Thank you for your answer.
-Gloria in Kettle Falls, Washington
Question #2:
Which wire temper should be used for making rings (in general), dead soft or half hard?
-Barbie in Girard, Ohi
Instructions
Answer #1:
Hi Gloria, the reason your prongs will not stay in place (or possibly in shape) is because you are using dead soft wire! Please use half hard when making prong rings.
In a small gauge like 22, half-hard wire is really not that hard to work with and actually will behave much better than soft because it will keep its shape after you have bent it, where you want it to be bent! Some folks teach and work in nothing but dead soft, however it will not hold up to a serious geometric design like the prong ring.
Hi Gloria, the reason your prongs will not stay in place (or possibly in shape) is because you are using dead soft wire! Please use half hard when making prong rings.
In a small gauge like 22, half-hard wire is really not that hard to work with and actually will behave much better than soft because it will keep its shape after you have bent it, where you want it to be bent! Some folks teach and work in nothing but dead soft, however it will not hold up to a serious geometric design like the prong ring.
Think about it this way - yes, the soft wire will work harden where you make the prong bends, but the length that runs from the ring construction to the pronged end will still be soft; as such, it will have the tendency to bend where it wants to.
Also, when you use the side wires to lock the prongs around the stone, these connections can easily pull a soft wire out of place.
Also, when you use the side wires to lock the prongs around the stone, these connections can easily pull a soft wire out of place.
I can't speak for other instructors, but I know that when I specify a wire gauge and temper for a project, it is for very this very reason - they work! Now, try the design again using half-hard wire, and see if your prongs don't stay where you would like them to be - and let me know how it works for you!
Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong
Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong
Answer #2: Additional info to #1
Hi Barbie, this is a tricky question! Most traditional wire rings are made with half-hard wire, but as you'll see, soft wire is perfect for some designs too.
The classic Pharaoh's Cabochon Ring is usually made with half-hard wire. However, if you're working with a fragile stone like opal or malachite, it's smart to mix tempers using soft wire where it crosses over the top of the stone.
The traditional Prong Ring should always use half-hard wire. The prong wires need to retain their "spring" to hold the stone securely.
Soft wire won't work here it simply won't hold up.
My own designs, including the Anything Cocktail and Filigree Pearl rings, are also best made with half-hard wire. This ensures structural stability in the filigree and secures the snapsets properly.
On the other hand, designs like the Crystal Wave Ring require soft wire. The shaping and stretching process is part of the construction, which naturally work-hardens the wire as you go.
Soft wire is also great for simple rings like single or multiple bead designs for kids, pinkie rings, toe rings, and button rings.
In my opinion, the easiest way to choose the right wire temper is to consider the purpose of the ring:
Will it be worn regularly?
Is the design large or ornate?
Is it intended for a man or a woman?
Many wire artists have their own preferences, but after 18 years of making and selling wire rings, this is what works best for me and has kept my customers happy.
Have fun creating but make sure every ring you sell is a stable, wearable product.
Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong
Hi Barbie, this is a tricky question! Most traditional wire rings are made with half-hard wire, but as you'll see, soft wire is perfect for some designs too.
The classic Pharaoh's Cabochon Ring is usually made with half-hard wire. However, if you're working with a fragile stone like opal or malachite, it's smart to mix tempers using soft wire where it crosses over the top of the stone.
The traditional Prong Ring should always use half-hard wire. The prong wires need to retain their "spring" to hold the stone securely.
Soft wire won't work here it simply won't hold up.
My own designs, including the Anything Cocktail and Filigree Pearl rings, are also best made with half-hard wire. This ensures structural stability in the filigree and secures the snapsets properly.
On the other hand, designs like the Crystal Wave Ring require soft wire. The shaping and stretching process is part of the construction, which naturally work-hardens the wire as you go.
Soft wire is also great for simple rings like single or multiple bead designs for kids, pinkie rings, toe rings, and button rings.
In my opinion, the easiest way to choose the right wire temper is to consider the purpose of the ring:
Will it be worn regularly?
Is the design large or ornate?
Is it intended for a man or a woman?
Many wire artists have their own preferences, but after 18 years of making and selling wire rings, this is what works best for me and has kept my customers happy.
Have fun creating but make sure every ring you sell is a stable, wearable product.
Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong
Materials
Ring Series - Part 5
DVD-RINGS5
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $39.95
- Gold Club Price: $29.96
21 Gauge Square Half Hard 14/20 Gold Filled Wire
H4-21SQH
- Lesson Quantity: 3.00 feet
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
- Price: $69.41
- Gold Club Price: $52.06
21 Gauge Half Round Half Hard 14/20 Gold Filled Wire
H4-21HRH
- Lesson Quantity: 16.00 inches
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
- Price: $30.85
- Gold Club Price: $23.14
Wire
Tools
Chain Nose Wire Pliers
G2-508
- G2-508
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
Flat Nose Wire Pliers
G2-506
- G2-506
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
Round Nose Wire Pliers
G2-507
- G2-507
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches
PLR-487.00
- PLR-487.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $16.97
- Gold Club Price: $12.73
Stainless Steel Ring Mandrel Sizes 1-15
G7-2
- G7-2
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
Small Rawhide Hammer 1 Inch - Pack of 1
G3-1
- G3-1
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $21.95
- Gold Club Price: $16.46
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- Category: Classic
- Technique(s): Wrapping, Design, General Education
Dale Armstrong
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