Ring and bead sizes for captured bead chain maille.
by Kylie Jones
If you're going to capture beads inside a chain maille weave, you must know what sizes and shapes will work within the gauges and diameters of your rings.
In this chain maille weave the bead size and the ring size work together to create different looks. A looser weave has more gaps and more light, a tighter weave has more metal around the beads and less light. To get the look you want you can alter the bead size, the bead shape, the thickness of the ring and also the size of the ring. If the weave is too loose the bead will fall out. If the weave is too tight there won't be enough room to add new rings to hold the next bead.
Bead sizes

Small differences in bead size will make a difference. Beads that are called 4mm may not be exactly that measurement and beads within a strand may vary quite a bit, particularly if they are hand-cut or faceted gemstones. Crystals and mass produced beads will generally be more uniform in size.

Round or faceted.

A 4mm round bead is 4mm across at all points but a 4mm faceted bead has a smaller surface area where the material is removed to make the flat facets.
Kylie Jones's Ring and bead sizes for captured bead chain maille. - , Chain Maille Jewelry, Design, beads sizes for chain maille
Ring sizes.

The difference between the stated Inner Diameter (ID) which is the size of the mandrel used to make the rings and the actual ID can make a difference. The difference in the 2 IDs is caused by the spring back from the coiled wire after it is removed from the mandrel. Dead soft wire will have less spring back and half hard wire will have more. Measuring the actual ID of your rings makes it easier to design with this weave. To measure the actual ID you can use calipers or verniers, the inside measuring faces are above the normal measuring faces.
Kylie Jones's Ring and bead sizes for captured bead chain maille. - , Chain Maille Jewelry, Design, ring sizes for chain maille
Type of jewelry

The style and fit of the jewelry will make a difference. This is particularly important for bracelets. This pattern will need to be looser for tight fitting bracelets so there is enough movement to make the curve around a wrist. If you want the pattern to have lots of spaces you will want the rings to be larger or thinner rings and if you want the pattern to have more solid metal you will want smaller rings or thicker rings.


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Digital Calipers With Stone Holder by Euro Tool
  • GAU-179.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $39.97
  • Gold Club Price: $29.98
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  • Category: Chain Maille
  • Technique(s): Design