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Prong-Setting Ideas for a Cut Stone

by Dale Armstrong
Question:

I have an almost cylindrical cut stone that looks like an emerald cut front and back. It almost looks like a crystal, but it is the same dimensions top to bottom. If I use prongs on it, should I add prongs to the underside as well? With regular prong settings that do not use snap sets, what keeps the stone from falling out from the back side?

-Kevin in St. Petersburg, Florida
Instructions
Answer:

Hi Kevin, your stone sounds beautiful and easy to set!

In my opinion, prongs should not be used on the back side of a stone.

Small, sharp prongs can catch on fabric or knits, which may pull them loose and result in a lost stone or they might stick out and irritate the skin.

Since you described the cut as emerald-style, a pendant using a prong frame setting would work well.

In this setup, prongs secure the stone at the top, while regular pulls (like those in a framed cabochon) hold it in place from the back.
Dale Armstrong's Prong-Setting Ideas for a Cut Stone - , Wire Jewelry Design, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Design, Frame Prong Pendant
Regular pulls will work with an emerald cut; simply plan your wraps so that the pulls run alongside the facet on the back, being about invisible from the front.

Because of the emerald facets, your stone could also be set in a regular frame (which would be my choice, if adding the set stone as the focal point on a bracelet).
Of course, the Orbit prong pendant design (found on Part 3 of Advanced Series) will fit about any size or shaped stone.

The prongs are custom-designed by you, to fit over the crown and girdle of the stone and then slightly down part of the pavilion, after which the lock-in-wires form a stable frame just under the girdle, so no wire shows through the top of the stone at all.

Whichever design you choose to use, have fun with your unique stone, Kevin!
Note: Just as this Tip "went to Press," Kevin sent in a picture of his unique stone, as well as his finished design! We hope this gives you some ideas to try in your own jewelry-making:
Wire wrapped by Kevin Thornhill; images courtesy of Kevin Thornhill.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong
Dale Armstrong's Prong-Setting Ideas for a Cut Stone - , Wire Jewelry Design, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Design, Blue Quartz
Dale Armstrong's Prong-Setting Ideas for a Cut Stone - , Wire Jewelry Design, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Design, Wrapped Blue Quartz

Materials

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  • Category: Design
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