Making a Bracelet with Prong Set Stones

by Dale Armstrong
Question:

I want to make a bracelet out of 14x12mm oval faceted gemstones. I want to use prongs, but do not want it bulky. I cannot find snap sets in that size. I have called places and searched the web with no results. Do you have any suggestions?

-Cynthia in Buchanan, Georgia
Instructions
Answer:

Sure, Cynthia, you can make prong settings for your small faceted stones from wire! Using the photo here for an example, instead of making a complete prong-frame (all around each stone), use 24-gauge wire to make two Half Frames, one for each side of the stone (wrap between the prongs with 21g half-round wire).
Dale Armstrong's Making a Bracelet with Prong Set Stones - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Design, , Prong set stone
At each end, where the frame meets, use the same 24-gauge square wire to wrap the frame together. Wrap it twice so the wraps are visible.

Instead of using the remaining wires to create a bail or embellishment like you would for a pendant, use them to form a connection loop.

For added strength and to keep all your stone settings aligned on the same plane, use a purchased closed jump ring between each setting.

Make sure to insert the jump ring into the connection loop before wrapping it closed.

The same rule applies if you're adding a clasp, such as a lobster claw or trigger style.

For those interested in learning how to make a prong frame for cut stones, DVD 1 of the Advanced DVD series shows the full process including formulas for stones of any size!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Materials

22 Gauge Round Half Hard 1/10 Sterling Silver Filled Wire
H10-22H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 feet
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $2.07
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22 Gauge Half Round Half Hard 1/10 Sterling Silver Filled Wire
H10-22HRH
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 feet
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $1.09
  • Gold Club Price: $0.82
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24 Gauge Square Half Hard 1/10 Sterling Silver Filled Wire
H10-24SQH
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 feet
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $1.59
  • Gold Club Price: $1.19
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Advanced Series - Part 1
DVD-ADV1
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  • Gold Club Price: $37.46
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Tools

Chain Nose Wire Pliers
G2-508
  • G2-508
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3 Step Square Pliers
G2-505
  • G2-505
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Flat Nose Wire Pliers
G2-506
  • G2-506
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Round Nose Wire Pliers
G2-507
  • G2-507
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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches
PLR-487.00
  • PLR-487.00
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  • Category: Classic
  • Technique(s): Wrapping, Design, General Education