Enlarging a Bezel

by Judy Larson
Bezels need to be a tight fit to contain a stone without the stone wobbling. Occasionally, that can mean erring on the side of too small. Here's how to fix that without starting over.
Instructions
When the stone has straight sides, like a druzy, a tight bezel fit is especially important.

This type of cabochon can't be secured by pushing the bezel over the stone so the fit must be exact.

Sometimes I play it safe and make the bezel a bit too small.

Yes, I could make a new one but it's an easy fix to slightly enlarge the bezel instead.
Judy Larson's Enlarging a Bezel - , Metalwork, , can't be pushed over the stone to hold it in place
Using a ring mandrel to stretch a bezel can slightly cone the shape, which may not work well with straight-sided stones like this druzy.

Instead, try this distortion-free method:

Thread a metal jump ring mandrel or dapping punch handle through the bezel.

With your hands on both sides of the mandrel, roll it back and forth across a bench block once or twice, applying gentle pressure.

This will stretch the bezel just slightly. Reshape, check the fit, and repeat if needed.

Works every time!
Judy Larson's Enlarging a Bezel - , Metalwork, , This method will not distort the shape of the bezel
Judy Larson's Enlarging a Bezel - , Metalwork, , stretching a bezel

Materials

28 Gauge 3/16" Fine Silver Bezel Wire
H9-28BZL
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $17.23
  • Gold Club Price: $12.92
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Tools

8 Piece Brass And Steel Mini Mandrel Set
G7-28
  • G7-28
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $9.97
  • Gold Club Price: $7.48
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Steel and Rubber Bench Block 4x4 Inches
G17-44
  • G17-44
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $29.95
  • Gold Club Price: $22.46
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  • Category: Metalwork
  • Technique(s): General Education