Designing with Chain Maille - Aspect Ratio for Box Chain.
by Kylie Jones
Aspect ratio (AR) is a simple gauge that allows you to compare different sized rings and helps you to choose rings for a particular chain maille pattern. For a detailed explanation please see my tool tip called "designing with chain maille - aspect ratio".
Instructions
AR = ID ÷ wire thickness.

For example 20g AWG wire is 0.8mm thick. A ring that has an Inner Diameter (ID) of 5/32" in metric has an ID of 4mm. 4 ÷ 0.8 = AR 5.
Box chain is a 3d weave so the aspect ratio affects how the box fits together. An AR of around 5 is good for this weave as it allows the rings to fit together nicely and form a square box.

For the smaller AR numbers around 4 the weave becomes so tight that the box isn't really distinguishable. The weave becomes more like a flattened rectangle and has an angular jagged edge which may be useful in a design.
Kylie Jones's Designing with Chain Maille - Aspect Ratio for Box Chain.  - , Chain Maille Jewelry, Making Chain, Chain Making , Design, box chain weave
The larger AR numbers from 6 onwards are too loose to hold the pattern for a bracelet or necklace. These looser box weaves can work in earrings if they are weighted with a bead or other element that pulls down on the chain and makes it sit in place.

The rings used in the chains in the photo are.

20g AWG (0.8mm) ID 1.8" (3.2mm) AR = 4

18g AWG (1mm) ID 11/64" (4.4mm) AR = 4.4

18g AWG (1mm) ID 3/16" (4.8mm) AR = 4.8

20g AWG (0.8mm) ID 5/32" (4mm) AR = 5

20g AWG (0.8mm) ID 3/16" (4.8mm) AR = 6

18g AWG (1mm) ID 1/4" (6.4mm) AR = 6.4
Kylie Jones's Designing with Chain Maille - Aspect Ratio for Box Chain.  - , Chain Maille Jewelry, Making Chain, Chain Making , Design, box chain weave

Materials

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Tools

4 1/2 Inch Flat Nose Prong Making Pliers 2mm
G2-87
  • G2-87
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
  • Price: $5.97
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  • Category: Chain Maille
  • Technique(s): Chain Making, Design