Accidentally Learning Something New

by Judy Larson

I don't often make chain maille designs because the jump rings are not generally fused or soldered closed to keep them from pulling apart. BUT I wanted a very simple chunky bracelet that had some dimension, especially since I planned on darkening it with patina.

Instructions

I settled on a simple 3-in-3 chain (three rings connected to three rings, then to another three) because grouping multiple rings per link makes the chain stronger and less likely to pull apart.

Sterling silver is highly reflective, but I chose Argentium silver for the rings because it's even brighter and whiter than sterling.

Light bounces off flat surfaces, so using twisted square wire rings adds even more reflectivity and visual dimension to the chain.

Judy Larson's Accidentally Learning Something New - , Chain Maille Jewelry, , chain maille learning curve

After making several chain mock-ups using plain round copper rings, I found that I liked 16-gauge rings with a 5mm interior diameter (ID) the best.

I used half-hard wire instead of dead-soft to make the rings stronger.

Half-hard and full-hard wire have more spring than dead-soft wire.

That extra spring means coils made with them will usually have a slightly larger ID than those made with dead-soft wire.

Keep this in mind when creating any chainmaille design.

I started making 5mm ID rings in 16-gauge round wire. I use a jump ring cutting system, so the only gap between the ring ends is the thickness of the blade.

If you're cutting by hand with a flush cutter, go up a half or whole millimeter in ring size to account for the angled cuts.

Next, I twisted three feet of 16-gauge square wire, annealed it (since twisting hardens the wire), and coiled it into 5mm ID jump rings.

They were too big! What happened?

It stumped me for a bit until I realized that twisting square wire increases its gauge due to the diagonal (catty-corner) distance across the square cross-section.

The twisted wire had effectively become 14-gauge! Thankfully, I only used three feet, and the rings can be repurposed for other projects.

Back to the drawing board: I twisted and annealed 18-gauge square wire to produce true 16-gauge rings.

Who knew? I'm sure it's in a book somewhere, but I was just flying by the seat of my pants on this one!

Always make more jump rings than you need just to be safe. Mistakes happen!

This chunky chain would be great for men, but it would need to be made longer. Since men's chains typically don't have extender chains, be sure to measure the wrist it's intended for.

Materials

18 Gauge Square Half Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-18SQH

Lesson Quantity: 5.00 feet
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
Price: $54.02
Gold Club Price: $40.52

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Silver Filled Oval Lobster Clasp 9mm - Pack of 1

S3-13

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $1.50
Gold Club Price: $1.13

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Tools

7 Inch Coil Cutting Jump Ring Making Plier with PVC Comfort Grips - Pack of 1

G2-110

G2-110
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

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The Quad Jump Ring Former

DUR-1312

DUR-1312
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $388.00
Gold Club Price: $291.00

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Basic Sawing Kit

G15-7

G15-7
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $34.95
Gold Club Price: $26.21

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20 X 15 Inch Padded Work Mat

MAT-620.00

MAT-620.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $14.95
Gold Club Price: $11.21

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Category: Chain Maille
Technique(s): General Education

Reviews

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Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!

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