Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin. Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder. I have been collecting stone fetish bead charms for over 50 years and made a necklace with some of them 20 or so years ago.
Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures
by Judy Larson
  • Category: Findings
  • Technique(s): Dapping, Forging, Butane Torch Techniques
  • Skill Level: Beginner
I have been collecting stone fetish bead charms for over 50 years and made a necklace with some of them 20 or so years ago. These fetish beads remind me of travels with my family, but most, if not all, are not Native American carved, even though purchased at trading posts in the U. S. Southwest. Last winter I noticed that one of the fetishes on my necklace had broken and was barely hanging on the stringing wire. It was time to restring my necklace in a slightly more traditional Southwest style manner. The reason my necklace is strung with turquoise base nuggets is because A: I LOVE turquoise, and B: I wanted to emulate a traditional style, not copy it.

The necklace bead strands on all the traditional necklaces that I purchased in the 1960's and early 1970's end with cones but what I really like about the necklaces is how easy they are to clasp because of the use of hook closures. The weight of the necklace stones and focals pull on the hook, holding it securely in the chain ring. After a bit of internet searching, I found that my necklaces sport two of the most commonly seen hook closures.

Materials

16 Gauge Round Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire
H8-16H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $7.04
  • Gold Club Price: $5.28
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18 Gauge Round Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire
H8-18H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $4.17
  • Gold Club Price: $3.13
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18 Gauge Round Half Hard Argentium .930 Silver Wire
H19-18H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $4.60
  • Gold Club Price: $3.45
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16 Gauge Round Half Hard Argentium .930 Silver Wire
H19-16H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $7.77
  • Gold Club Price: $5.83
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Tools

Silver Solder Paste Hard SS75 - 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.20
  • SOL-822.20
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $19.95
  • Gold Club Price: $14.96
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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches
PLR-487.00
  • PLR-487.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $16.97
  • Gold Club Price: $12.73
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6 Step Barrel Plier - Pack of 1
G2-503
  • G2-503
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $18.95
  • Gold Club Price: $14.21
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4.5 Inch Flat Nose Mini Pliers
G2-88
  • G2-88
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $4.97
  • Gold Club Price: $3.73
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Blazer Big Buddy Turbo Torch, Black
TRCH-8010
  • TRCH-8010
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $40.00
  • Gold Club Price: $30.00
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Solderite Soldering Board 6 Inch by 6 Inch Soft
SOL-421.10
  • SOL-421.10
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $12.95
  • Gold Club Price: $9.71
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Steel Bench Block 4x4 Inch - Pack of 1
G17-10
  • G17-10
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $21.95
  • Gold Club Price: $16.46
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Chasing Hammer with Wooden Handle, 1 1/8 Inch Face
G3-27
  • G3-27
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $13.95
  • Gold Club Price: $10.46
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Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces
CLN-584.00
  • CLN-584.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $31.95
  • Gold Club Price: $23.96
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NATURE'S TOUCH CITRIC PICKLE, 2LB PLASTIC JAR
CLN-163.00
  • CLN-163.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $16.95
  • Gold Club Price: $12.71
Out of Stock
SANDING SPONGES ASST- 5PC- 1EA GRIT 100-400
ABR-600.90
  • ABR-600.90
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $9.95
  • Gold Club Price: $7.46
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Instructions
Step 1:
Version One
Directions: Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies being used and the space you are working in.

For the purposes of this tutorial using 6-Step Barrel Pliers, the barrels are numerically labeled from smallest to largest. A barrel size will be referred to by number in the tutorial.
Pro Tip: Make several hooks in each style and to make it easier to decide which size and shape will work best with a design.
The grid squares are ¼"(appx 5.5mm), making the approximate hook lengths: large 7/8"; medium ¾"; small 5/8" Hint: Make this hook version with full-hard wire if not soldering.
Cut 16 gauge wire lengths for the desired size hook: Small: 1¼"; Medium: 1¾"; Large: 2¼"
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - Version One, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - Version One, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - Version One, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 2:
Version One
File one end flat. In a perfect world, the end would have a rounded channel filed into it to fit the shape of the wire it is bent towards, but flat will be fine.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - Version One, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 3
On the filed end, make a loop using Step 1 of the 6-step barrel pliers. Use a flat nose pliers to close the loop tightly.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 4
Solder does not fill voids, so the amount of solder used here will seem to be overkill, but in the end, it works and looks nice. Place a generous "glob" (technical term) of paste solder on the seam between the loop end and the shank of the hook. Turn the hook over on a soldering surface. Place another glob of paste solder on top of the seam.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 5
Heat until the solder flows and IMMEDIATELY remove the heat. Heating too long will cause the solder to "melt and run" leaving a dent in the connection area. More paste solder can be added if the connection area did not fill in enough.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 6
Pickle, rinse, and dry the pieces.
Step 7
Clean and refine the solder joins.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 8
Holding the loop perpendicular to a bench block, paddle the last ¼" to 3/8" of the wire.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 9
Use a file and sanding sponges to round each hammered end.
Step 10
Slightly curve the paddled end of the hook towards the loop. Use Step 4 of the 6-step barrel pliers to make the curve on the small hook, Step 5 to make the curve on the medium hook, and Step 6 to make the curve on the large hook.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 11
Use Step 4 of the 6-step barrel pliers to make the hook on each wire, bending the hook in the opposite direction of the soldered loop.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 12
Place the hook on a bench block. Hammering the hook the curve flat will make the hook stronger.
Use of Version One Hook and Alternative Configurations
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 13:
Version Two
The grid squares are ¼", making the approximate hook lengths: large ¾"; medium 11/16"; small 9/16" If 18 gauge closed jump rings with these interior diameters (ID) are available, these hooks can be made without soldering: Small-23.5mm; Medium-27.5mm; Large-31.5mm
Cut 16 gauge wire lengths for the desired size hook: Small: 3"; Medium: 3½"; Large: 4"
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - Version Two, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - Version Two, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 14
File both ends of each wire flat.
Step 15
Form each wire into a "D" or oval shape. Make sure the ends match up evenly with no space between the joined ends.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 16
Place the formed wires on a soldering surface. Put a small amount of paste solder under each join. Heat until the solder flows.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 17
File, sand, and refine the joins.
Step 18
Pickle, rinse, and dry the pieces.
Step 19
Pull the rings into an elongated oval. Press the wire centers together. Hint: It may be easier to do this if the pieces are formed into a circle on a mandrel first.
Step 20
The size of the formed loop that will be connected to a beading wire is personal preference. Use flat nose and/or soft jaw pliers to help form the loop on the 6-step pliers. Here, the size small hook loop was formed on Step 1 of the 6-step barrel pliers. The medium and large hook loops were formed on Step 2. The other end of the elongated oval is pressed together with soft jaw pliers to make a very small teardrop.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 21
This step is optional. Place a small line of paste solder between the pressed together wires. Heat until the solder flows.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 22
Pickle, rinse, and dry the pieces.
Step 23
Bend the large end loop up at a 45 degree angle.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 24
Use Step 4 of the 6-step barrel pliers to make the hook on each wire, bending the hook in the opposite direction the loop was bent in Step 22.
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp
Step 25
Version One and Version Two Hooks can be tumbled for several hours to polish them.

Version One and Two Hooks In Use
Judy Larson's Traditional Southwest Style Hook Closures  - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, making a hook clasp