The Shell Game Necklace

Drawing out a basic idea of your design gives some problem solving beforehand and in this case, where I wanted to place my capture locations. A capture is a frame or a type of cage, made of wire in this case, to hold a non-traditional bead or pendant for jewelry making. Captures can be made with a variety of materials such as: wire, sheet metal, cord or waxed linen, just to name a few.

This necklace is all about the shells. The colors, the textures, the shine. While trying to decide what size of shell to use, I remember that I had bought a bag of shells from Rio Grande. Finding two that I thought would work together well, both in size and shape, I drew out the design that I had pictured in my mind

I decided to use annealed steel wire for this, I love the rustic look of the wire, when cleaned it looks like patinated silver, but you have to clean it. When it comes off the spool, it will get everything dirty. Steel wool does a handy job of that (Photo 6).

With each wire coming up from your capture, make a wrapped loop. After your loops are finished, pull the wire to the opposite side, tuck under the connecting wire on top, under the capture loops on the back to secure the shell. Do this on each side.

With chain nose or bent nose pliers, make sure your wrapped loops are tight/snugged to each other. Cut excess wire close as you can. Then with bent nose pliers, tuck your cut ends close, so there are no rough edges.

Check your wire work, make sure the shell cannot escape and is "captured" well. The back and forth wires across the top bring to mind the waves in the shell pattern. You can check your work by laying it on your drawing to see if you match up.

Secure or capture the top shell by wrapping the wire around one side, coming down behind it. Make a 90 degree angle in each wire, point away. Create wrapped loops on each wire, facing down and parallel to the top loops. You will notice that your capture is a bit loose and the shell might fall out. Working from the back of the pendant, bring your wire across the top, slip under your first capture loop, so this on each side.

Now it's time to make jump rings. There is no need to be intimidated. Using bail making pliers, mandrels, a dowel or a pencil... whatever you have on hand in the right size. Because you have already drawn out your design, you know exactly how many jump rings to make. Working directly from the spool, wind 18g wire around your mandrel, corresponding to the number of jump rings you need. Using your flush cutters, cut your jump rings from the coil, making your cuts on the flush side of the cutter to get smooth jump rings.

Use 2 of your new jump rings and connect both sides of your pendant together. Here's what your pendant looks like.

With 18g wire, cut 4 pieces of wire 4" long, flush cut each end of the wire. Clean with steel wool and straighten. With your round nose pliers, make 5mm diameter loops on each end of the wire.

Shape your links. There are a variety of things you can use to shape them. You can use a jig or a bracelet mandrel or nylon jawed bracelet bending pliers. Use whatever gets the job done, even your hands work for this part. For the bail link, that the pendants will hang from, cut a 6" piece of 18g wire, loops at each end and shaped.

With jump rings, attach the pendants to your bail wire. Check to see how the pendant swings from the bail, you can make adjustment to the curve of the bail and to the positions of the wrapped loops on the pendant.

Attach the links with jump rings. At the end of one side of the necklace, link 6 jump rings together and add it to the end.

For the clasp, working from the spool of 18g wire, make a small loop. Move the wire to the base of the round nose pliers and curve the wire around to a make a question mark or clasp shape. Cut wire about 4-5mm from the bottom loop. Use your round nose pliers to bend the tail up to a jaunty angle. File the end of the wire smooth. Use a bench block or anvil and hammer to work harden the shape of the clasp. Use a jump ring to attach clasp to the necklace.