Sterling Lake Stone Pendant with Twisted Wire
- Category: Metalwork
- Technique(s): Filing / Finishing, Butane Torch Techniques
- Skill Level: Intermediate
Teams from 27 countries, as well as teams from the U.S., converged on our small community of Baudette in Lake of the Woods County, Minnesota, during the summer of 2019 for the World Ploughing Contest. The site of the contest rotates among the competing countries and it had been many years since the U.S. hosted this event. In 1988 the contest was held in Amana, Iowa and in 1972 it was held in Mankato, Minnesota.
Hosting this event is a very large undertaking and requires many volunteers to make it successful. The church my family attends hosted all the teams for a meal and the Blessing of the Ploughs. Door Prize Drawings were held for the competitors for silver pendants featuring stones collected from the shores of Lake of the Woods.
Hosting this event is a very large undertaking and requires many volunteers to make it successful. The church my family attends hosted all the teams for a meal and the Blessing of the Ploughs. Door Prize Drawings were held for the competitors for silver pendants featuring stones collected from the shores of Lake of the Woods.
Materials
22 Gauge Dead Soft Sterling Silver Sheet - 6 Inches
H8-22SM6
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
- Price: $55.98
- Gold Club Price: $41.99
28 Gauge 3/16" Fine Silver Bezel Wire
H9-28BZL
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
- Price: $12.83
- Gold Club Price: $9.62
20 Gauge Round Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire
H8-20H
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
- Price: $3.84
- Gold Club Price: $2.88
16g 12mm closed jump ring
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Tools
Sheet Solder Variety Pack
SOL-860.90
- SOL-860.90
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $15.95
- Gold Club Price: $11.96
Micro-Flame Butane Torch
SOL-300.00
- SOL-300.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $36.97
- Gold Club Price: $27.73
Blazer Big Buddy Turbo Torch, Black
TRCH-8010
- TRCH-8010
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $40.00
- Gold Club Price: $30.00
Silver Solder Paste Hard SS75 - 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.20
- SOL-822.20
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $19.95
- Gold Club Price: $14.96
Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.15
- SOL-822.15
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $18.95
- Gold Club Price: $14.21
Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.10
- SOL-822.10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $16.95
- Gold Club Price: $12.71
Diamond Files--10 PC
FIL-972.00
- FIL-972.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $24.47
- Gold Club Price: $18.35
Multi Angle Cutting Jig
VIS-512.00
- VIS-512.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $84.95
- Gold Club Price: $63.71
5 Inch Mini Flat Nosed Pliers Ergonomic Handle
G2-75
- G2-75
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $6.97
- Gold Club Price: $5.23
6 Step Barrel Plier - Pack of 1
G2-503
- G2-503
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $18.95
- Gold Club Price: $14.21
WET/DRY PAPER 9 x 11, 400grit- PK/10
ABR-500.25
- ABR-500.25
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $12.95
- Gold Club Price: $9.71
Economy Nylon Jaw Pliers
G2-25
- G2-25
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $11.97
- Gold Club Price: $8.98
Solderite Soldering Board 6 Inch by 12 Inch Soft
SOL-421.20
- SOL-421.20
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $21.95
- Gold Club Price: $16.46
CHARCOAL BLOCK - HARD
SOL-482.00
- SOL-482.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $14.95
- Gold Club Price: $11.21
Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces
CLN-584.00
- CLN-584.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $31.95
- Gold Club Price: $23.96
NATURE'S TOUCH CITRIC PICKLE, 2LB PLASTIC JAR
CLN-163.00
- CLN-163.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $17.95
- Gold Club Price: $13.46
Liver of Sulfur 4 oz
SOL-600.04
- SOL-600.04
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $16.95
- Gold Club Price: $12.71
Steel and Wood Bench Block 3x3 Inch
G17-25
- G17-25
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $14.97
- Gold Club Price: $11.23
Curved Burnisher with Wooden Handle
G8-14
- G8-14
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $3.57
- Gold Club Price: $2.68
8 Inch Brass Hammer with Wooden Handle
G3-23
- G3-23
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $7.95
- Gold Club Price: $5.96
7 Piece Mini TruStrike Hammer Set with Stand
HAM-520.70
- HAM-520.70
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $140.54
- Gold Club Price: $105.40
Instructions
Step 1
Directions: Read through the directions before beginning the project.
Choosing a Stone
Note: Be aware that you are not allowed to remove items from State and National Parks and Monuments and land. Unless you have permission, you should also not remove stones from private land.
When searching for stones, remember that they need to be thin enough to be held in place when bezel wire is pushed in, so they should be relatively flat. If you find one that is too thick but you love and can't pass up, the back may be able to be ground down a bit. If you do this, you MUST wear a respirator and eye protection. Wash and rinse your collected treasures and let them air dry.
Choosing a Stone
Note: Be aware that you are not allowed to remove items from State and National Parks and Monuments and land. Unless you have permission, you should also not remove stones from private land.
When searching for stones, remember that they need to be thin enough to be held in place when bezel wire is pushed in, so they should be relatively flat. If you find one that is too thick but you love and can't pass up, the back may be able to be ground down a bit. If you do this, you MUST wear a respirator and eye protection. Wash and rinse your collected treasures and let them air dry.
It is helpful to think of a stone in terms used to describe a cut gemstone. The bezel wire must be wide enough to cover the girdle-the dotted line on the stones. It should also be wide enough to cover a bit of the crown-the crown and table on a rock round into each other. The arrows on the rocks show how high the bezel wire must be to capture the stone. In most cases, the height of the girdle around the rock will not be the same. Many times this will not be a problem, as in the first rock. If one end of the rock is too thin, it can be raised in the bezel with a small shim of metal soldered to the backplate.
The girdle on both ends of this rock are the same height. Viewing from another angle, the girdles on each side of the rock are much higher than the girdle on either ends. The bezel wire needs to be wider to accommodate the side girdle height, the higher of the two.
This stone will rock when pushing the bezel wire in, so e6000 can be your friend. In most cases, glue is not used when bezel setting cabochons, but stones are another matter. Leveling stones is not new. Stones, nuggets and thin cabochons in early turquoise jewelry were set with cushions of sawdust, and sometimes cardboard shims, under them. E6000 does not mold, cushions the stone, and fills the gaps around the stone as well as holding it in place. After the glue is set, pushing the bezel in is easy because the stone does not move.
This stone will rock when pushing the bezel wire in, so e6000 can be your friend. In most cases, glue is not used when bezel setting cabochons, but stones are another matter. Leveling stones is not new. Stones, nuggets and thin cabochons in early turquoise jewelry were set with cushions of sawdust, and sometimes cardboard shims, under them. E6000 does not mold, cushions the stone, and fills the gaps around the stone as well as holding it in place. After the glue is set, pushing the bezel in is easy because the stone does not move.
Design around the chosen stone
One way to start designing is to make multiple templates of the chosen stone on the sticky end of a post-it note. It is then easy to change the position of the stone within a design. This tutorial shows a variety of stones during construction of a simple pendant. Design and embellish to your liking.
One way to start designing is to make multiple templates of the chosen stone on the sticky end of a post-it note. It is then easy to change the position of the stone within a design. This tutorial shows a variety of stones during construction of a simple pendant. Design and embellish to your liking.
Step 2
Work from the bezel wire coil to save wire. Place the end of the bezel wire coil in the Miter-Cutting Vise and Jig with a flat side pushed securely against the flat fence between the 90 degree jaws. Very little metal needs to be removed so only the part that needs to be filed off should be protruding from the tool. File the end of the bezel wire flush with the Jig to achieve a perfect 90 degree angle to the bezel wire length. Mark an "X" on the filed end with a Sharpie so as to not lose track of which end was already filed. An arrow can indicate the top or bottom of the bezel strip. IF YOU MARK WITH AN ARROW, MAKE SURE DO EXACTLY THE SAME THING EVERY TIME YOU MAKE A BEZEL.
Step 3
Place the stone on a flat surface. Wrap the bezel wire around the stone. Cut the bezel wire 1/8" to ¼" longer than needed. Don't worry about the bezel wire fitting the stone yet.
Pro Tip: Until you have made many bezels, it will be difficult to cut the exact length needed from the coil. Also, it is just easier to work with a shorter piece of bezel wire.
Step 4
Place bezel wire wrapped stone on a flat surface so the bottom of the bezel wire sits on that surface. Overlap the filed bezel wire end on the cut end so the bezel wire is relatively tight around the stone. Use an ultra fine point Sharpie to mark a line where the filed end overlaps the cut end.
Step 5
Cut the bezel wire a hair longer than the marked line. Open the formed bezel wire and fit the newly cut end into the Miter-Cutting Jig and Vise with a long flat side of the bezel wire pushed securely against the flat fence between the 90 degree jaws, allowing very little of the newly cut end to protrude from the tool. File the excess wire in the same manner as Step 2. Reform the bezel wire around the stone to check the fit with the filed seams pressed together. If the stone is loose, remove a bit more wire using the jig and a file until the desired fit is achieved. The bezel does not need to be really tight on the stone, but tight enough that not much "air" or "light" shows around the stone.
Step 6
Line the ends of the bezel wire up so they are perfectly matched. Once the ends are perfectly flush, place a small amount of hard paste solder on the inside of the seam-use a type of solder that works for you. Place the bezel on a solder block. Holding a solder pick in one hand and the torch in the other, heat the band until the solder flows. When the solder flows, immediately tip the ring over with the pick and heat the bezel until the solder is pulled to the outside and to the top of the bezel seam. This will take less than a second so be careful. The thinner the bezel wire, the easier it is to melt. A small butane torch works well for this step.
Pickle, rinse and dry the bezel.
Pickle, rinse and dry the bezel.
Step 7
Re-shape the bezel around the stone. Place the stone in the bezel on a flat surface. Keeping the clothespin at a 90 degree angle to the bench block, press the bezel wire around the perimeter toward the stone.
Place the bezel right side up on a piece of 320 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Using two or three fingers to hold the bezel down, use a figure 8 motion to sand the back of the bezel perfectly flat. This will be the side that faces the backplate so it needs to be perfectly flat. It will be helpful to mark which side will be facing the backplate or which side is up. MAKE SURE THAT IF YOU MARK WITH AN ARROW, DO EXACTLY THE SAME THING EVERY TIME YOU MAKE A BEZEL.
After smoothing the bottom of the bezel, re-shape the bezel around the stone again, making sure the sanded side is facing down.
Place the bezel right side up on a piece of 320 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Using two or three fingers to hold the bezel down, use a figure 8 motion to sand the back of the bezel perfectly flat. This will be the side that faces the backplate so it needs to be perfectly flat. It will be helpful to mark which side will be facing the backplate or which side is up. MAKE SURE THAT IF YOU MARK WITH AN ARROW, DO EXACTLY THE SAME THING EVERY TIME YOU MAKE A BEZEL.
After smoothing the bottom of the bezel, re-shape the bezel around the stone again, making sure the sanded side is facing down.
Pro Tip: Use a Sharpie to mark the bottom of the stone in relation to the bezel seam. There will be no guesswork later trying to figure out which way the stone fits the into the bezel. If the Sharpie mark can't be seen, put a small piece of painters tape on the bottom of the rock and mark it.
Step 8
Set the stone in the bezel on a flat surface. If any parts of the stone need to be raised for it to be more level, place bits of different sizes of wire in the bezel to level the stone. Make a sketch of where each leveling pieces are placed. These will be glued or soldered in place later. Note the position of the bezel seam on the sketch, as well.
Step 9
Place the stone and bezel, flat side down, on a piece of 20 or 22 gauge sheet metal. Do not use anything thinner than 22 gauge. Use a Sharpie marker to draw a line around the bezel, leaving at least 3/8" of metal showing beyond that line. Mark the backplate denoting the top of the pendant where the bail will be placed. Shears or a saw can be used to cut the bezel backplate out.
Pro Tip: Positioning and drawing around multiple stones at one time can help conserve sheet metal.
Step 10
The backplate needs to be perfectly flat for the bezel to adhere to it properly during soldering. Place the backplate on a bench block and flatten using a small rubber or plastic mallet. If the metal does not flatten well, anneal it and flatten again.
Step 11
Keeping in mind where the top of the pendant is on the front of the backplate, stamp the metal content and/or a Makers Mark on the back of the piece. Sand and refine the back and the front of the backplate to remove any surface scratches.
Step 12
Measure around the stone in the bezel. Add 1" to that measurement and then double it. In this case, that would be around 7" of 22 gauge wire needed. Fold the wire in half and twist tightly. If the twist is too loose the wires will come apart when forming them around the bezel. If the twist is too tight, the wires may no longer have the "rope" look when patina is applied. Coil (if a very long coil is made) and anneal the twisted wire. Pickle and dry the wire coil before using.
Pro Tip: The last half inch on either end of the twisted wire will be waste. If you think you will use more twisted wire in your designs, having long lengths of it pre-twisted is handy and there will be less waste. If it is stored in a separate labeled bag inside the bag with the same gauge wire used for twisting, it will always be easy to find.
Step 13
Put the stone in the bezel so the bezel will not become misshapen during the forming of the twisted wire around the bezel. Fingers and/or tools are used to help curve the twisted wire snugly around the bezel. With a stone such as this one, the barrels of a large Wrap 'N' Tap pliers were used to help shape the twisted wire.
Cut the twisted wire to fit the bezel, not overlapping the wire ends.
Cut the twisted wire to fit the bezel, not overlapping the wire ends.
Step 14
Ball wire scraps of sheet metal or wire on a soldering block to make a ball. Add small bits of metal until the desired size is achieved. Sand the flat back of the cooled ball to clean and remove soldering block residue. Check Step 30 to make the ball for the bail at the same time.
Pro Tip: Argentium wire and sheet will melt into a smooth ball. With sterling silver, it is more difficult to achieve a smooth surface. A small butane torch works well for this step.
Step 15
The ends of the twisted wire need to be cut to fit against the ball when soldered in place. Mark the twisted wire where the outer diameter of the ball would touch the wire if the ball sat atop them. The marks are a guide for how much to NOT cut and file away. Sand or file the twisted wire ends at an angle, continually checking the fit in relation to the ball, until the desired fit is achieved. The ball if optional. If desired, file the ends of the twisted wire flat and solder them together with medium solder. Reshape around the bezel.
Step 16
Place medium paste solder around the bottom of the bezel and the bottom of the twisted wire. Center the twisted wire, solder side down, on the brass backplate. Place the bezel, solder side down, inside the twisted wire on the backplate. Place medium paste solder on the flat back of the ball and position in place between the cut ends of the twisted wire. The ball should also touch the bezel. If you wish to solder the leveling pieces in place, put a bit of medium paste solder on the bottom of each and place them where the sketch made in Step 8 shows.
Different Backplate Option: Draw a line on the backplate around the bezel and twisted wire. Use a sharp texturing hammer to make lines radiating out from the drawn line. Flatten the backplate on a bench block before soldering the bezel and wire in place.
Step 17
Because of the thickness of the metal, a hotter flame may be needed to heat the up to a temperature to get the solder to flow. A torch head on a butane canister will work well. Heat around the piece and occasionally inside the bezel on the backplate, until the solder flows. It will be helpful to use a soldering pick to lift the edge of the piece up so heat can get under it. Immediately remove the heat. Let the piece cool naturally. The honeycomb soldering block shown here is nice to use, but a magnesia block will work just as well.
Pickle, rinse, and dry the piece.
Pickle, rinse, and dry the piece.
Step 18
Place 400 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Place the top of the bezel on the sandpaper. Move the piece in a figure 8 motion on the sandpaper to smooth and refine the top of the bezel.
Step 19
Use an ultra fine point Sharpie to draw a line in the shape desired around the bezel. The reveal-the amount of metal left showing beyond the twisted wire-can be as narrow as desired, just make sure to leave room at the top to attach a bail.
Step 20
Cut the pendant out along the marked line. It is preferable to use a saw, but shears can be used. With shears, it takes more work to clean and refine the edges that are bent by the shears.
Using progressively finer sandpapers and sanding sponges, clean and refine the pendant edge.
Using progressively finer sandpapers and sanding sponges, clean and refine the pendant edge.
Step 21
There are two ways to make a jump ring oval to make a bail. Place the ring over the tips of a round nose pliers and stretch the ring into an oval shape. Since 16 gauge wire is pretty thick and may be hard to bend, the other option is to use flat nose pliers to gently flatten the 16 gauge jump ring into an oval shape. Center the jump ring between the jaws of the pliers. Squeeze the pliers gently, flattening one side of the jump ring slightly. Turn the jump ring around and squeeze the other end. Repeat this process until a long narrow oval shape is achieved.
Step 22
Bend the oval jump ring evenly around the second smallest barrel of the 6-step barrel pliers. Use soft jaw pliers to pinch the narrow ends of the jump ring together. Remove the formed jump ring from the 6-step pliers. Use the soft jaw pliers to press the ends of the oval jump ring bail together so it is a tight fit to slip onto the pendant backplate.
Step 23
A shallow well dug into a magnesia soldering block will help with the positioning of the bail during soldering. Slide the bail into position on the pendant. It should be a tight fit. Place easy paste solder around the bail where it touches the back of the pendant, as shown in the second photo. Turn the pendant over. Place the bail in the well in the soldering block. Add easy paste solder to the bail on the front where it touches the pendant. Heat the unit until the solder flows. Allow the piece to cool before checking the back to make sure the solder flowed there, too. If not, heat again until the solder flows.
Step 24
Pickle, rinse and dry the pendant.
Step 25
Sand and refine the piece as needed.
Step 26
Tumble for several hours to polish and work harden the piece.
Step 27
Leave bright and shiny or add patina if desired. Use 0000 steel wool to remove patina from the high spots to give some dimension to the piece. Tumble again for 30 minutes to bring up a shine.
Step 28
If the leveling pieces were not soldered in place, use e6000 to glue them in place according to the sketches made in Step 7. Let the glue set on the leveling pieces before using glue, if needed, to hold the stone in place. Push the stone into the bezel. If too much glue is used, it will squish up the sides of the stone and out of the bezel. If this happens, wait for the glue to set. Being careful to not scratch the stone, use fine tweezers or chain nose pliers to pull the excess glue away bits at a time. The amount of glue seen in the bezel here is usually too much. However, there was a deep well in the bottom of the stone as well as one end raised quite a bit, so it was fine. Allow the glue to set before the next step.
Step 29
Place the pendant on a bench block with the bail hanging over the edge. My favorite bezel pushing tool is a half a clothespin, but use what works best for you. Think of the pendant in terms of a compass, with the bail at the North position. Press the North end of the bezel in, then the South. Press the East end of the bezel in, then the West. After that, work opposite corners until the bezel wire is pushed toward the stone around the entire edge.
Step 30
Gently tapping around the top of the bezel with a tiny brass hammer (make sure the face is very smooth) finishes and smooths the bezel edge.
Step 31
Some stones are very porous and may need to be sealed. An internet search will pull up a variety of ways to seal stones. Use a little Renaissance wax on a muslin buff, my favorite, on the rock surface as well as on the metal surface, which helps retard tarnish. Just know that wax is not permanent. Use your preferred method to seal the stone if desired.
Step 32
Change the look of these simple pendant with different bails:
2" of 16 gauge round wire, was shaped and slightly flattened before soldering to the back of the pendant. Add jump rings.
2" of 16 gauge round wire, was shaped and slightly flattened before soldering to the back of the pendant. Add jump rings.
Cut 2" of 16 gauge round wire and ball the ends. Shape, flatten the balls, and solder in place. Add jump rings.
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Judy Larson
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Anti-tarnish Silver Cloth Bags
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Holiday Woodland Fairy Ornament
Happy Holly Days Wreath Ornament
Happy Holly Days Leaves and Berries
Happy Holly Days Bells Ornament 
Art Deco Wire Wrapped Pendant
Twisted Wire Jump Rings
Two-tone Beaded Bangle
Sweetheart Pendant
Waves on the Beach Earrings
Any Size Wire Hearts - Any Size, Any Gauge
Just in Case Heart Pendant
Small Flower Embellishment
Making Tiny Dapped Metal Leaves
Spinner Fidget Bangles
Small Flower Bud Embellishment
Three Petal Bud and Layered Embellishment
Creating a Flower Stem
Stamped Tube Beads
Water Cast Scrap Cross
Sugared Grapes Pendant
Gemstone Chains Reimagined
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