Square Wire Rings Round Maille Bracelet

by Kylie Jones

Category: Chain Maille
Technique(s): Chain Making
Skill Level: Intermediate

Working with square wire rings feels a bit different from round wire rings. The overall effect is also quite different, and beautiful!

Materials

18AWG (1mm) Inner diameter (ID) 3/16” (5mm)

Lesson Quantity: 139.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 139.00 each

4mm copper jump ring

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

6mm copper lobster clasp

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

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Tools

Flat Nose Wire Pliers

G2-506

G2-506
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Liver of Sulphur Gel, 2 Ounce Bottle

SOL-610.02

SOL-610.02
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $12.95
Gold Club Price: $9.71

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000 knitting needle or small bamboo skewer

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

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Instructions

Step 1

Place 4 closed rings on an open ring and close the ring. Divide the 4 rings into 2 groups of 2 and with an open ring go through 2 rings, add 2 closed rings and close the ring. You now have a 2-1-2-1-2 chain.

Kylie Jones's Square Wire Rings Round Maille Bracelet - , Chain Maille Jewelry, Making Chain, Chain Making , square wire rings round maille bracelet

Step 2

To join this small chain into a circle take an open ring through the first 2 rings and the last 2 rings and close the ring.

Step 3

Place the tight chain circle on a thin mandrel making sure the mandrel is going straight through the center of the circle and not through any of the jump rings. Arrange the sets of 2 jump rings so that the bottom ring goes towards the tip of the mandrel and the top goes towards the back of the mandrel. This piece of chain maille now has 3 rows of round maille ready for more rows to be added.

Step 4

To make things easier you can also wire the first row of chain maille to the mandrel to stop the rings from flipping around.

Step 5

A new row of 3 rings has to be added to the bottom row of the chain maille. Starting at any of the 3 bottom rings, take an open ring and go down into the center of the first ring and out through the center of the 2nd ring and close the ring. With another open ring go down into the center of the 2nd ring and out through the center of the 3rd ring and close the ring. Take another open ring down into the center of the 3rd ring and out through the center of the 1st ring and close the ring.

Step 6

Continue to add rows until you have a total of 21 rows of round maille.

Step 7

The last row of round maille that was added is now flipped over to create the focal ridge pattern at the front of the bracelet. To flip the rings take the bottom of each ring and fold it over back onto the round maille tube. What was the bottom of the ring is now the top of the ring.

Step 8

Another row is added to these rings in their new position. Just as before the new rings go down into the center of the first ring and out through the center of the 2nd ring, going all the way around.

Step 9

Add 4 more straight rows.

Step 10

Flip the last row in exactly the same way as in step 7 and add a row of rings.

Step 11

Add 18 more rows.

Step 12

To finish the ends add 2 rings to the last row on each end and leave off the third ring. Attach the clasp with a small jump ring to the 2 rings on one end.

Step 13

The dark brown finish is done with liver of sulphur. Wash the bracelet in soapy water to get any oil from your hands off the rings and then dry it. Dip the bracelet in a small amount of warm water with a little liver of sulfur gel. I continually dip, rinse and dry the bracelet until I get the color I want. I then rub a very small amount of soft beeswax onto the rings to protect the finish.

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Kylie Jones

I am a jewelry designer living on the Sunshine Coast, Qld, Australia. I love the challenge of designing jewelry, the mix of creative energy and problem solving. I love chain maille because it is low tech, it makes gorgeous ornamental patterns and textures, and it has a strong link to the past. You can see more of my work at: www.ringsandstones.com.au