Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings, Contemporary Wire Jewelry. Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing. This necklace is a showcase for beautifully forged (or hammered) copper wire.
Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings
by Pamela Hawkins
  • Category: Contemporary
  • Technique(s): Cutting, Forging, Texturing
  • Skill Level: Beginner
This necklace is a showcase for beautifully forged (or hammered) copper wire. Notice the beautiful texture you can get just from gently hammering metal. Make a simple pair of matching earrings as well.

Materials

14 Gauge Round Dead Soft Copper Wire
H11-14D
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 feet
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
  • Price: $5.86
  • Gold Club Price: $4.40
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20 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire
H11-20H
  • Lesson Quantity: 6.00 inches
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $0.42
  • Gold Club Price: $0.31
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copper cable chain
  • Lesson Quantity: 18.00 inches
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
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Tools

C.H.P Milano Small Sprue Cutter, 6-1/4 Inches, Flush Cut
PLR-488.00
  • PLR-488.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.95
  • Gold Club Price: $18.71
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Chain Nose Wire Plier
G2-508
  • G2-508
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $32.95
  • Gold Club Price: $24.71
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Round Nose Wire Plier
G2-507
  • G2-507
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $32.95
  • Gold Club Price: $24.71
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5 1/2 Inch Nylon Flat Jaw Pliers with Replacement Jaws
G2-1
  • G2-1
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $9.97
  • Gold Club Price: $7.48
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Chasing Hammer - Flat Faced with Polished Wooden Handle - Pack of 1
G3-13
  • G3-13
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $11.97
  • Gold Club Price: $8.98
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Premium Steel Bench Block 2 1/2 X 2 1/2
G17-9
  • G17-9
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $15.97
  • Gold Club Price: $11.98
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Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Pliers, Small Barrels
PLR-746.02
  • PLR-746.02
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $29.95
  • Gold Club Price: $22.46
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Variable Speed Rotary Tool with Flexible Shaft
G26-51
  • G26-51
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Price: $49.97
  • Gold Club Price: $37.48
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6 Piece Assorted File Set with Wooden Handle
G14-7
  • G14-7
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $5.57
  • Gold Club Price: $4.18
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Renaissance wax
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
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Instructions
Step 1:
Prepare the wire components
Using wire cutters, cut ten pieces of 14-ga. wire in varying lengths from 3 in. down to 1 in. Make sure each end has a flush cut. Using wire straighteners, straighten as best you can. We will be hammering it a lot, so we don't need perfection.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - Prepare the wire components, Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, cut varying lengths of 16g wire
Step 2
Use the fine sanding pad or a Dremel to lightly sand the ends and remove any sharp areas. Note: If you are using the Dremel, make sure you are wearing safety glasses, as tiny bits can fly when the wheel is moving fast.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, sand the ends of the wire
Step 3
Using the large end of the round nose pliers, roll each end into a loop towards the center of the wire.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, roll each end of the wire into a half loop
Step 4
Place the small end of the round nose pliers in the middle of the wire. Holding the tool tightly, use your other hand to press the two flat areas of the wire so they bend inwards to make a heart shape. Keep about ¼ to ½ in. open in the center between the two loops.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, bend the wire into a heart shape
Step 5
Place wire on the edge of the bench block with the "v" area off the edge. We want this part to stay round. Hold the "v" part, and using the small end of the chasing hammer, hammer all the rest of the piece. We want to work harden, add texture, and flatten slightly. Do not worry if your loops open a little; that is OK, and we will fix that later.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, forge the heart shape
Step 6:
Creating the fringe
Place each piece of the fringe wires on the bench block and hammer all but about 1 in. or so. Flip over now and then to maintain a straight piece. If the piece is curling left and right, hammer away from the curve. Turn the wire on its side and lightly hammer areas that are curving too much.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - Creating the fringe, Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, forge the fringe pieces of wire
Step 7
If you have any sharp edges on the hammered pieces, gently file them smooth.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, file the wire edges smooth
Step 8
3. Using the small end of the round nose pliers, make a p-shaped loop at the round end of each fringe piece so the loop is perpendicular to the paddled end.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, make a loop
Step 9
Using chain nose pliers, open one of the p-shaped loops on the pendant piece just as you would a jump ring and slide on the flattened fringe pieces. I added them in graduating lengths, but add them in any way that looks good to you! Close the loop.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, add the fringe to the heart
Step 10:
Adding the chain
Cut the chain in half. Using two chain nose pliers, open one end of the chain as you would a jump ring and attach it to one side of the pendant. Close. Repeat for the other side.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - Adding the chain, Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, add the chain
Step 11:
Creating the clasp
Using the center step of a small Wrap and Tap tool, create a loop. Referring to the photo in, hold the tool with the plastic flat side towards yourself and place the very tip of the wire in the middle. Place your thumb on the bottom part of the wire and turn the tool away from yourself while holding the wire until the tip of the wire meets the other side, making your first large loop.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - Creating the clasp, Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, make a loop
Step 12
Flip wire piece to the other side and using round nose pliers, make a small loop going in the other direction.
Step 13
Place the clasp on the bench block. Using the flat side of a ball peen hammer, flatten the connector, and then using the small side, hammer to create texture dimples. If the loops open up a little, just use the chain nose pliers to close again. Open up the small loop, as you would a jump ring, and attach to one side of the chain, then close.
Step 14:
Creating the earrings
Create the ear wires with the 20g. wire. Using the round nose pliers, create p-shaped loop. Place the loop in the middle section of the Wrap N Tap and push wire under and away from you until it meets on the other side. Remove from the Wrap N Tap and trim with wire cutters. Gently file the ends. Using chain nose pliers, bend up the end slightly.

Step 15
Connect a small wire fringe piece to the ear wire using one link of the necklace chain.
Pamela Hawkins's Smashed Fringe Necklace and Earrings - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Texturing, fringe earrings
Step 16:
Final details
With a soft cloth, add a little Renaissance Wax to seal the metal pieces. Let dry and then lightly buff. Since the wire and chain used are raw (bare) copper, they will patina over time with wear. If you would like a dark patina right away, you can use a darkening patina such as Liver of Sulfur, or even add color with Vintaj® patinas. In some ways, this piece is a beautiful show of form and texture that is just waiting for MORE!
Pro Tip: I created more fringe pieces than I needed and chose the best of the bunch for the front of my pendant and earrings.