Rainbow Autumn Tree Earrings
- Category: Contemporary
- Technique(s): Dapping, Hole Punching, Lashing, Twisting
- Skill Level: Intermediate
The earring frames are 12 gauge wire. You could choose to use 14g or 16g as well. If you don't have a rolling mill, those gauges may be easier to flatten with a hammer.
Materials
12 Gauge Round Dead Soft Copper Wire
H11-12D
- Lesson Quantity: 10.00 inches
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
- Price: $2.35
- Gold Club Price: $1.76
26 Gauge Round Dead Soft Copper Wire
H11-26D
- Lesson Quantity: 20.00 feet
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 25FT
- Price: $2.31
- Gold Club Price: $1.74
3-4mm beads rose quartz, carnelian, golden tiger eye, citrine, aventurine, moss agate
- Lesson Quantity: 40.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 40.00 each
Sterling Silver Earwires 29mm - Pack of 2
K19-55
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $30.64
- Gold Club Price: $22.98
Tools
Wubbers Oval Mandrel Pliers - Jumbo
PLR-1590
- PLR-1590
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $45.97
- Gold Club Price: $34.48
6 Step Barrel Plier - Pack of 1
G2-503
- G2-503
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $14.95
- Gold Club Price: $11.21
C.H.P Milano Angled Flush Cutter, 5-1/4 Inches
PLR-489.00
- PLR-489.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $21.95
- Gold Club Price: $16.46
5 1/2 Inch Nylon Flat Jaw Pliers with Replacement Jaws
G2-1
- G2-1
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $9.97
- Gold Club Price: $7.48
Chain Nose Wire Pliers
G2-508
- G2-508
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
4.5 Inch Flat Nose Mini Pliers
G2-88
- G2-88
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $4.97
- Gold Club Price: $3.73
Steel and Wood Bench Block 3x3 Inch
G17-25
- G17-25
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $14.97
- Gold Club Price: $11.23
Flat Face Chasing Hammer
HAM-161.00
- HAM-161.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $14.97
- Gold Club Price: $11.23
Mini Rolling Mill - Mini C80 from Durston
DUR-1000
- DUR-1000
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $965.33
- Gold Club Price: $724.00
Instructions
Step 1
Begin with your oval mandrel and 5 inch pieces of 12 gauge wire.
Using the largest oval (or your desired size) on the mandrel, hold the center of the wire on the mandrel and bend the open ends into a tear drop shape.
Using the largest oval (or your desired size) on the mandrel, hold the center of the wire on the mandrel and bend the open ends into a tear drop shape.
Step 2
Using your thumbs and forefingers, slightly open the bottom of the oval to flatten it out a little on the bottom.
Then, push the open ends back together into the tear drop to keep the shape.
Then, push the open ends back together into the tear drop to keep the shape.
Step 3
Use your rolling mill (or hammer & steel block) to square off the bottom 2/3rd of the tear drop frames.
*Note: you'll have to adjust the thickness on the mill a couple times to get a nice, flat surface on the frames.
Try not to make the frames too thin.
*Note: you'll have to adjust the thickness on the mill a couple times to get a nice, flat surface on the frames.
Try not to make the frames too thin.
Step 4
Using the rolling mill again, turn the frames sideways & flatten the tip ends about ½ inch.
*Note: the tips will be thinner than the bottom of the frames because you'll be punching a hole for the ear wires.
*Note: the tips will be thinner than the bottom of the frames because you'll be punching a hole for the ear wires.
Step 5
Switch to the hammer & steel block.
Using the ball-end of the hammer, add texture to the flattened bottom of the tear drop frames.
Using the ball-end of the hammer, add texture to the flattened bottom of the tear drop frames.
Step 6
Sandwiching the open tips around your steel block, hammer the metal with the ball-end for texture, work hardening & thinning for the punch.
Step 7
Trim the hammered ends to about ¼ inch
Cut the corners off
File the tip ends round, going in only one direction when filing. Don't forget the inside edge of each tip.
*Note: you may need to do a little bit more hammering to make sure the tips are thin enough for the punch
Cut the corners off
File the tip ends round, going in only one direction when filing. Don't forget the inside edge of each tip.
*Note: you may need to do a little bit more hammering to make sure the tips are thin enough for the punch
Step 8
Use a hole punch to make a hole in the hammered-paddle tip end. Make sure to center your punch well.
*Note: remember to file the jagged ends from the punch
*Note: remember to file the jagged ends from the punch
Step 9
Wrap 1 weaving wire around the center of each base wire 1.5 times, leaving the free ends in the center of the tear drop.
Repeat this step with the other 9 wires
Repeat again with the 2nd frame
Repeat this step with the other 9 wires
Repeat again with the 2nd frame
Step 10
Begin with the bundle of trunk wires in the first frame.
Using your thumb and forefinger, twist all the wires together, about ½ inch.
Separate 4 wires on one side
Separate 4 more wires on the opposite side, but not directly across from the first four.
Continue gently twisting the trunk and separating "branches," reducing the number of wires as you go. Mine go 4-4-4-3-2-1-1-1 (20 total wires).
*Note: try to make the largest branches at the bottom of the tree and the skinniest branches at the top.
Repeat this process with the 2nd frame
Using your thumb and forefinger, twist all the wires together, about ½ inch.
Separate 4 wires on one side
Separate 4 more wires on the opposite side, but not directly across from the first four.
Continue gently twisting the trunk and separating "branches," reducing the number of wires as you go. Mine go 4-4-4-3-2-1-1-1 (20 total wires).
*Note: try to make the largest branches at the bottom of the tree and the skinniest branches at the top.
Repeat this process with the 2nd frame
Step 11
Gently twist each branch bundle, peeling out smaller branches from the larger ones.
Leave as much space as possible between the twist and the frame; you'll need this space for the beads.
Leave as much space as possible between the twist and the frame; you'll need this space for the beads.
Step 12
Now, you can start adding your colorful beads as leaves of the trees.
The color pattern I chose is in rainbow order, from bottom to top and mirrored on each side, but you can improvise with your patterning, here.
As you add beads to a wire, loop it off to the closest frame wire so you don't lose the beads.
Only wrap each branch wire about 5 times on the frame. You only have so much space to tie these off.
Repeat this process on the 2nd frame.
The color pattern I chose is in rainbow order, from bottom to top and mirrored on each side, but you can improvise with your patterning, here.
As you add beads to a wire, loop it off to the closest frame wire so you don't lose the beads.
Only wrap each branch wire about 5 times on the frame. You only have so much space to tie these off.
Repeat this process on the 2nd frame.
Step 13
Now, each bead wire should be secured and finished.
Some bead wires might require one or two more rounds around the post, where others may require one or two less than the recommended 5 rounds.
From the top of the 5th round on the bottom-most bead wire, cross over the front of all 5 rounds, diagonally, and thread underneath the bead and wire.
Wrap the wire end around the bead wire a full 2 turns.
Trim short and close to the bead
Use chain nose pliers to fully tuck and secure the trimmed end.
Repeat this with all bead wires on both sides of both earrings.
*Note: Be very gentle when wrapping around the bead wire. If you pull too hard, the bead wire will break.
Some bead wires might require one or two more rounds around the post, where others may require one or two less than the recommended 5 rounds.
From the top of the 5th round on the bottom-most bead wire, cross over the front of all 5 rounds, diagonally, and thread underneath the bead and wire.
Wrap the wire end around the bead wire a full 2 turns.
Trim short and close to the bead
Use chain nose pliers to fully tuck and secure the trimmed end.
Repeat this with all bead wires on both sides of both earrings.
*Note: Be very gentle when wrapping around the bead wire. If you pull too hard, the bead wire will break.
Step 14
On the rounded pegs at the top of the earring, slightly bend the posts straight so they are perpendicular to one another.
Step 15
Switch to your ear wires. You can easily make these by hand out of your choice of material. This tutorial uses pre-made stainless steel hooks.
Widen the loop where the hook attaches to the earring using stepped mandrel pliers (2nd smallest peg).
Trim off about ¼ inch from the end of the hook.
Slightly straighten the rounded part of the ear hook and make it a wider, half circle.
Emphasize the straight end of the hook by increasing the bend angle slightly.
Attach the loop of the hook to opposing sides of your earrings.
Widen the loop where the hook attaches to the earring using stepped mandrel pliers (2nd smallest peg).
Trim off about ¼ inch from the end of the hook.
Slightly straighten the rounded part of the ear hook and make it a wider, half circle.
Emphasize the straight end of the hook by increasing the bend angle slightly.
Attach the loop of the hook to opposing sides of your earrings.
Step 16
Patina & polish to finish, if you prefer.
Step 17:
Celebrate Color with More Boho Free-Form Designs
Free-form artistry doesn't stop here. 🍂 Check out more boho jewelry-making projects that celebrate color and texture.
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