Pat's Silver Domed Earrings
- Category: Metalwork
- Technique(s): Dapping, Filing / Finishing, Drilling, Twisting
- Skill Level: Intermediate
Several years ago, I noticed a pair of bezel set pearl earrings on French hooks my friend Pat wore quite often. I wanted to make something with the same feeling. After just losing another earring because it is too difficult for my arthritic fingers to put ear nuts on ear wires, I wanted my design to be different but with a similar feeling as Pat's. I decided to incorporate a latch hook ear wire, made them all silver, and replaced the bezel with a ring.
How are you going to make these your own? Will you use mixed metals, textured metals, or change the size? Whatever you do, they are sure to become a favorite.
How are you going to make these your own? Will you use mixed metals, textured metals, or change the size? Whatever you do, they are sure to become a favorite.
Materials
26 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches
H19-26SM6
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 3 Inches
- Price: $281.65
- Gold Club Price: $211.24
20 Gauge Round Full Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire
H19-20FH
- Lesson Quantity: 5.00 inches
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
- Price: $11.15
- Gold Club Price: $8.37
24 Gauge Square Half Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire
H19-24SQH
- Lesson Quantity: 8.00 inches
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
- Price: $5.14
- Gold Club Price: $3.86
Tools
Small Disc Cutter, 7 Pieces
DAP-400.10
- DAP-400.10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $46.95
- Gold Club Price: $35.21
Blazer GT 8000 Big Shot Torch
TRCH-8000
- TRCH-8000
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $89.95
- Gold Club Price: $67.46
Silver Solder Paste Hard SS75 - 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.20
- SOL-822.20
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $36.95
- Gold Club Price: $27.71
Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.15
- SOL-822.15
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $35.95
- Gold Club Price: $26.96
Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.10
- SOL-822.10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $34.95
- Gold Club Price: $26.21
Magnesia Soldering Block
SOL-455.00
- SOL-455.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $7.95
- Gold Club Price: $5.96
Bench Block Helper with Steel and Nylon Blocks
DAP-500.30
- DAP-500.30
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $29.95
- Gold Club Price: $22.46
Chain Nose Wire Pliers
G2-508
- G2-508
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches
PLR-487.00
- PLR-487.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $16.97
- Gold Club Price: $12.73
Single 3rd Hand with Tweezer and Base
HOL-165.00
- HOL-165.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $18.97
- Gold Club Price: $14.23
Stainless Steel Ring Mandrel Sizes 1-15
G7-2
- G7-2
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
Liver of Sulfur 4 oz
SOL-600.04
- SOL-600.04
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $16.95
- Gold Club Price: $12.71
5/8 Inch Double Rubber/Nylon Head Hammer - Pack of 1
G3-26
- G3-26
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $4.97
- Gold Club Price: $3.73
Instructions
Step 1
Cut two 9/16" discs (approx. 15mm) and two 7/16" discs (appx. 11mm) from the 26 gauge sheet metal.
Note: If changing the sizes of the discs, the smaller discs should be cut at least 1/8" (approx. 3.25mm) smaller than the larger discs because anything larger is difficult to dome small enough to fit inside the rings.
Note: If changing the sizes of the discs, the smaller discs should be cut at least 1/8" (approx. 3.25mm) smaller than the larger discs because anything larger is difficult to dome small enough to fit inside the rings.
Step 2
Use a metal content stamp to mark the lower edge on the back side of each of the larger discs.
Step 3
Anneal, pickle, and dry the discs to make them easier to work with in the next few steps.
Set the smaller discs aside for now.
Set the smaller discs aside for now.
Step 4
The edges of the larger discs are a bit sharp.
The edges should be filed and then refined with sandpaper or sanding sponges.
The edges should be filed and then refined with sandpaper or sanding sponges.
Pro Tip: Sanding sponges from nail salons work great.
Step 5
Flatten the larger discs on a bench block with a rubber or plastic mallet.
Step 6:
Create the rings
Reader-Optimized Version
Wrap 18-gauge round wire tightly around a 25/64" (10mm) mandrel.
The wire springs back slightly, making the coil a bit larger than the mandrel. Check the coil against the larger disc. If too big, use the next smaller mandrel and test again until it fits perfectly.
Cut two rings from the coil.
The domed smaller disc should fit inside if cut properly. Use flush cutters for flat ends. Ensure each jump ring is a full coil circumference.
Match the wire ends with no gap.
File ends flat if needed.
Apply a small amount of hard paste solder to the seam with a clean solder pick.
Use a micro torch for small rings to avoid melting mishaps. Keep the blue flame tip 1/4" above the block and 1/4" from the ring's outer edge (follow the red line). Heat until solder flows, then remove flame. Cool slightly before quenching.
Cut index cards for tiny solder bits-no waste. Label by solder type.
Pickle, rinse, and dry the rings.
Clean and refine the solder seam.
Slide one ring onto a ring rounder or bezel mandrel.
Use a plastic or rubber mallet to re-round it. Place on a bench block and flatten with the mallet. Repeat for the second ring.
To enlarge a ring, place it back on the mandrel. Lightly hammer the top edge to push it down. Be careful not to oversize it.
Wrap 18-gauge round wire tightly around a 25/64" (10mm) mandrel.
The wire springs back slightly, making the coil a bit larger than the mandrel. Check the coil against the larger disc. If too big, use the next smaller mandrel and test again until it fits perfectly.
Cut two rings from the coil.
The domed smaller disc should fit inside if cut properly. Use flush cutters for flat ends. Ensure each jump ring is a full coil circumference.
Match the wire ends with no gap.
File ends flat if needed.
Apply a small amount of hard paste solder to the seam with a clean solder pick.
Use a micro torch for small rings to avoid melting mishaps. Keep the blue flame tip 1/4" above the block and 1/4" from the ring's outer edge (follow the red line). Heat until solder flows, then remove flame. Cool slightly before quenching.
Cut index cards for tiny solder bits-no waste. Label by solder type.
Pickle, rinse, and dry the rings.
Clean and refine the solder seam.
Slide one ring onto a ring rounder or bezel mandrel.
Use a plastic or rubber mallet to re-round it. Place on a bench block and flatten with the mallet. Repeat for the second ring.
To enlarge a ring, place it back on the mandrel. Lightly hammer the top edge to push it down. Be careful not to oversize it.
Reader-Optimized Version
Fold 24-gauge wire in half and twist tightly.
This keeps wires from separating when cut into short rings. Avoid over-twisting so the pattern stays visible.
Alternative: Twist 18- or 20-gauge square wire tightly.
Anneal the work-hardened twisted wire.
Pickle, rinse, and dry it to reduce springiness for coiling.
Wrap twisted wire tightly around a 25/64" (10mm) mandrel.
It springs back slightly for a larger coil. Check against the larger disc. Switch to smaller mandrels until perfect.
Cut two rings from the coil.
Use a Lindstrom cutter for flush cuts on twisted wire it minimizes squishing. Avoid on round wire.
Ensure full coil circumference. The smaller disc needs room to fit inside.
Match wire ends with no gap.
Ovalize the ring for easier alignment. Twist one end slightly if needed for the two wires.
Apply small hard paste solder to seam with a clean pick.
Use micro torch for small rings. Keep blue flame 1/4" above block and 1/4" from edge (follow red line). Heat until flow, then quench after slight cool.
Pickle, rinse, and dry rings.
Slide ring onto ring rounder or bezel mandrel.
Re-round with plastic or rubber mallet. Flatten on bench block. Repeat for second ring.
To enlarge, lightly hammer top edge down mandrel.
Work carefully to avoid oversizing.
Fold 24-gauge wire in half and twist tightly.
This keeps wires from separating when cut into short rings. Avoid over-twisting so the pattern stays visible.
Alternative: Twist 18- or 20-gauge square wire tightly.
Anneal the work-hardened twisted wire.
Pickle, rinse, and dry it to reduce springiness for coiling.
Wrap twisted wire tightly around a 25/64" (10mm) mandrel.
It springs back slightly for a larger coil. Check against the larger disc. Switch to smaller mandrels until perfect.
Cut two rings from the coil.
Use a Lindstrom cutter for flush cuts on twisted wire it minimizes squishing. Avoid on round wire.
Ensure full coil circumference. The smaller disc needs room to fit inside.
Match wire ends with no gap.
Ovalize the ring for easier alignment. Twist one end slightly if needed for the two wires.
Apply small hard paste solder to seam with a clean pick.
Use micro torch for small rings. Keep blue flame 1/4" above block and 1/4" from edge (follow red line). Heat until flow, then quench after slight cool.
Pickle, rinse, and dry rings.
Slide ring onto ring rounder or bezel mandrel.
Re-round with plastic or rubber mallet. Flatten on bench block. Repeat for second ring.
To enlarge, lightly hammer top edge down mandrel.
Work carefully to avoid oversizing.
Step 7
Dome the smaller discs: Place a smaller disk face down in a well where it fits about half way down in the dapping block.
Choose an appropriate size dap for that well and dome the disk.
Move to the next smaller well, choose and appropriate size dap for that well and dome again, making the domed disk have a smaller diameter.
Continue in this manner, moving to smaller wells, until a ring constructed in Step 6 slides all the way down the domed disk.
See how the rings do not sit flush with the surface of the mat in the first photo, but do in the second.
Repeat this process with the other small disc.
Choose an appropriate size dap for that well and dome the disk.
Move to the next smaller well, choose and appropriate size dap for that well and dome again, making the domed disk have a smaller diameter.
Continue in this manner, moving to smaller wells, until a ring constructed in Step 6 slides all the way down the domed disk.
See how the rings do not sit flush with the surface of the mat in the first photo, but do in the second.
Repeat this process with the other small disc.
Pro Tip: To avoid a mistake, use a piece of painters tape to mark the smallest well used when doming the small discs.
Step 8
Place the small domed disk on the 320 grit sandpaper on a bench block.
Run the dome over the sandpaper in a figure eight motion to slightly flatten the bottom edge.
It is not necessary to have a perfectly flat bottom.
Run the dome over the sandpaper in a figure eight motion to slightly flatten the bottom edge.
It is not necessary to have a perfectly flat bottom.
Step 9
Use a triangle file to file a small notch on either side of the bottom of each domed disc.
Why do this: When the dome is soldered into place, the air inside expands rapidly and needs to escape.
If there is nowhere for it to go, it will seem to "explode" the dome into the air, which could cause injury.
The little notches create a hole for the air to escape.
Why do this: When the dome is soldered into place, the air inside expands rapidly and needs to escape.
If there is nowhere for it to go, it will seem to "explode" the dome into the air, which could cause injury.
The little notches create a hole for the air to escape.
Step 10:
The pieces are now ready to be assembled:
Place the large discs right side up on a solder block.
Step 11
Use a clean solder pick to place small dots of medium paste solder on the bottom edge of one of the domes, avoiding the notches. Repeat with the other dome.
Step 12
Place a dome, solder side down, in the center of each disc.
Don't worry if there is solder all over. It will be cleaned up later.
Don't worry if there is solder all over. It will be cleaned up later.
Step 13
Use a clean solder pick to place small amounts of medium paste solder around the edge of the dome on the large disc on each assembly.
Step 14
Place a ring over each dome and push into the paste solder.
Holding the dome and ring in place, use a cotton swab to remove excess solder.
Holding the dome and ring in place, use a cotton swab to remove excess solder.
Step 15
Using a medium flame, move the torch around each unit, keeping the tip of the blue part of the flame about ¼" above the soldering block surface and ¼" away from the disc (follow the red line).
Continue until the solder flows. Immediately remove the flame.
Wait for the unit to cool a bit before quenching
Continue until the solder flows. Immediately remove the flame.
Wait for the unit to cool a bit before quenching
Step 16
Pickle, rinse and dry the pieces.
Step 17
Use an ultra fine point Sharpie to make a tic mark on the back of the earring centered below the metal content mark.
Transfer the mark in the same place on the front of the earring.
Transfer the mark in the same place on the front of the earring.
Step 18
Center a soldered earring on a Circle Center Finder, matching the Sharpie mark with 6 o'clock on the center finder.
Make a Sharpie mark at 12 o'clock and on either side at the line just below 3 and 9 o'clock.
Repeat for the other earring.
Make a Sharpie mark at 12 o'clock and on either side at the line just below 3 and 9 o'clock.
Repeat for the other earring.
Step 19
Transfer the marks in the same place on the back of each earring.
Step 20
Draw a Sharpie line from top to bottom on the back of each earring.
Draw a Sharpie line connecting the other two marks on the back of each earring.
Draw a Sharpie line connecting the other two marks on the back of each earring.
Step 21
Straighten and cut two 2½" long pieces of 20 gauge full hard wire.
Make a 90 degree bend ¾" from one end of each wire for the latch hook.
Note: The latch hook section is cut longer than needed because it may melt a bit during soldering if you are not careful.
Make a 90 degree bend ¾" from one end of each wire for the latch hook.
Note: The latch hook section is cut longer than needed because it may melt a bit during soldering if you are not careful.
Step 22
Use a clean solder pick to place easy paste solder on the center line above the line that goes side to side just below center.
Step 23
Dig a small well in the solder block.
Place an earring domed side down in the well, making sure the flat disc is level with the surface of the block.
Place an earring domed side down in the well, making sure the flat disc is level with the surface of the block.
Step 24
Use a third hand to hold a wire in place on the solder on the back of the earring.
Stacked pennies hold the long end of the wire up.
Stacked pennies hold the long end of the wire up.
Step 25
Move a medium flame around the earring, keeping the tip of the blue portion of the flame about ¼" above the soldering surface and ¼" away from the edge of the earring, until the solder flows.
It is very important to NOT run the flame over the wire, as it can too easily melt.
The red line is where the flame should be moving during this step.
It is very important to NOT run the flame over the wire, as it can too easily melt.
The red line is where the flame should be moving during this step.
Step 26
Pickle, rinse and dry the piece.
Step 27
Repeat Steps 21 through 23 for the other earring.
Step 28
Cut the ¾" long latch hook wire back to ½".
Step 29
Cut the long ear wire to 1-3/8" in length.
Step 30
Use a cup bur to round the latch hook and ear wire ends.
Step 31
Sand and polish each earring.
Step 32
Tumble the earrings for several hours in a tumbler with water and steel shot to work harden them.
If the earrings are to be left bright and shiny, skip the next step.
If the earrings are to be left bright and shiny, skip the next step.
Step 33
The earrings can be left bright and shiny, or they can be patinated with liver of sulfur.
Neutralize the patina process on the earrings by placing them in baking soda water.
Use 0000 steel wool to buff the pieces and bring out the highlights on the metal after patination.
The earrings can be left with the soft brushed finish received with the use of steel wool or tumbled again for about 30 minutes to bring up a shine.
Neutralize the patina process on the earrings by placing them in baking soda water.
Use 0000 steel wool to buff the pieces and bring out the highlights on the metal after patination.
The earrings can be left with the soft brushed finish received with the use of steel wool or tumbled again for about 30 minutes to bring up a shine.
Step 34
Bend the long wire toward the front of the earring at a 45 degree angle.
Step 35
Place the tips of a chain nose pliers at the base of the ½" wire on the back of the earrings.
Holding the pliers tips in place, bend one wire over the pliers tips toward the left at 45 degrees, and the other toward the right.
Holding the pliers tips in place, bend one wire over the pliers tips toward the left at 45 degrees, and the other toward the right.
Step 36
Roll the latch wire back toward the earring center over the smallest barrel on the 6-step barrel pliers to create the latch hook.
My photo did not turn out, but the photo on the left shows how the latch hook is made.
The photo on the right shows the latch hooks on two prototype earrings where the ear wire spanned the entire back of the earring.
My photo did not turn out, but the photo on the left shows how the latch hook is made.
The photo on the right shows the latch hooks on two prototype earrings where the ear wire spanned the entire back of the earring.
Step 37
At the 3/8" mark, grasp the wire between the two middle barrels of the 6-step barrel pliers.
Bend earring portion down over the larger of the two barrels on one side and the wire down on the other side of the larger barrel.
Bend earring portion down over the larger of the two barrels on one side and the wire down on the other side of the larger barrel.
Step 38
Use the largest barrel on the 6-step barrel pliers to make a slight bend in the end of the ear wire.
Step 39
Place the earring wire on the edge of a bench block.
Hammer the front curve to provide more stiffness to the ear wire.
The ear wire in front has been hammered, the one in back has not.
Hammer the front curve to provide more stiffness to the ear wire.
The ear wire in front has been hammered, the one in back has not.
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Judy Larson
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