Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin. Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder. A basic wire shape can be used in so many designs.

Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry

by Judy Larson
  • Category: Findings
  • Technique(s): Butane Torch Techniques
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
A basic wire shape can be used in so many designs. Earrings, bracelets, necklaces, rings, links, spacers, etc. Change the wire shape, wire texture, and plier barrel or mandrel size for a totally different look.

Materials

16 Gauge Square Half Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire
H19-16SQH
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $13.22
  • Gold Club Price: $9.91
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16 Gauge Round Half Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire
H19-16H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $10.37
  • Gold Club Price: $7.78
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Tools

14mm Barrel Wrap N Tap Looping Pliers for Pattern Wire, Etc.
G2-79
  • G2-79
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.97
  • Gold Club Price: $18.73
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Wubbers Triangle Mandrel Pliers - Jumbo
PLR-1490
  • PLR-1490
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $44.97
  • Gold Club Price: $33.73
Out of Stock
Wubbers X-Large Round Mandrel Pliers
G2-1304
  • G2-1304
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $35.97
  • Gold Club Price: $26.98
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Precision Flat Nose Pliers
G2-4
  • G2-4
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $6.37
  • Gold Club Price: $4.78
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Ring Bending Pliers
PLR-835.00
  • PLR-835.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.37
  • Gold Club Price: $18.28
Out of Stock
Nylon Ring Bending Pliers
PLR-841.00
  • PLR-841.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $20.97
  • Gold Club Price: $15.73
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5 1/2 Inch Nylon Flat Jaw Pliers with Replacement Jaws
G2-1
  • G2-1
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $9.97
  • Gold Club Price: $7.48
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Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Pliers, Small Barrels
PLR-746.02
  • PLR-746.02
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $29.95
  • Gold Club Price: $22.46
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Steel Bench Block 4x4 Inch - Pack of 1
G17-10
  • G17-10
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
  • Price: $21.95
  • Gold Club Price: $16.46
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Solderite Soldering Board, Hard, 12 Inch by 12 Inch
SOL-420.30
  • SOL-420.30
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $34.95
  • Gold Club Price: $26.21
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Blazer Big Buddy Turbo Torch, White
TRCH-8012
  • TRCH-8012
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $40.00
  • Gold Club Price: $30.00
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Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.15
  • SOL-822.15
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $18.95
  • Gold Club Price: $14.21
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Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces
CLN-584.00
  • CLN-584.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $31.95
  • Gold Club Price: $23.96
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NATURE'S TOUCH CITRIC PICKLE, 2LB PLASTIC JAR
CLN-163.00
  • CLN-163.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $17.95
  • Gold Club Price: $13.46
Out of Stock
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Instructions
Step 1
Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies being used and the space you are working in.

This size shape made depends upon which barrel the wire is wrapped around. It also depends upon the temper of the wire. The harder the wire, the more spring it has, and thus the looser/larger the coil will be on the chosen pliers barrel. Choose a size and make a coil with as many rings as desired.
Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry
Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry
Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry
Step 2
Cut the coils into rings using your preferred method for cutting rings.
Step 3
Close the rings. Two flat nose pliers or a flat nose and chain nose pliers are usually used to close jump rings. However, it may be easier to use two inexpensive wide flat nose pliers to close larger rings. It is important that the cut ends of a ring are perfectly flush or the ring seam will not connect well with solder. If using square or twisted square wire, make sure the corners of the wire match up.
Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry
Step 4
Space the closed rings out on a Solderite board. Place a small bit of medium paste solder under each seam and heat until the solder flows. Allow the rings to cool naturally. Moving the rings to a bench block to cool them faster. Note: If using sterling silver wire, hard paste solder can be used. If using round Argentium wire, the rings can be fused.
Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry
Step 5
Pickle, rinse and dry the rings.
Step 6
Use files and sanding pads to clean and refine the soldered seams.
Step 7
Place a ring in the center of a bench block. Place another bench block on top of the ring. Give the top bench block one or two good whacks in the center with a heavy brass mallet. Check to see if the ring is now flat with the edges squared up. If not, one more whack should get the job done.
Pro Tip: If the rings were made with round, square, or twisted square wire, place them on a hard rubber block or thick magazine and flatten with a rawhide or nylon/rubber mallet.
Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry
Step 8
Use ring bending pliers to press the circle into a teardrop/egg shape. If you know the part of this shape will be covered with embellishments, position the seam there. Otherwise, the seam is best placed in the least curved area of the shape as that is where the least amount of stress on the seam will be during shaping.
Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry
Step 9
Stretching a ring out into an oval is easy using small Wrap 'N' Tap pliers for the larger circle or round nose pliers for the smaller one. If you know the part of this shape will be covered with embellishments, position the seam there. Otherwise, the seam is best placed in the least curved area of the shape as that is where the least amount of stress on the seam will be during shaping.
Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry
Step 10
Center a ring on a circle center finder grid. Position the seam on one of the sides and not a corner. Mark four quardrants with a retractable ultra fine point Sharpie. Center the jaws of flat nose pliers between the marks and squeeze. Do this for all four quadrants. The circle is now a square with rounded corners. If a rectangle is desired, just change where the ring is marked to make two shorter and two longer sections.
Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry
Step 11
Texture the top of the shapes with a Mini TruStrike Sharp Designer Hammer at this point for added dimension, if desired.
Step 12
Flatten the shapes again if needed.
Step 13
Tumble the shaped rings for several hours to bring up a shine. They are now ready to use in a multitude of your fabulous designs.