Hammered Luxury

by Judy Larson

Category: Classic
Technique(s): Making Loops, Butane Torch Techniques
Skill Level: Beginner

Nothing says luxury better than the gleam of gold. By hammering the links, there are more surfaces to reflect light, making the chain a real eye-catching accessory.

This size link, which is not quite a paper clip link, seems to be the perfect size to make neck or bracelet chains. The link does not appear to be too heavy or too light, but "just right" which, in my opinion, makes it a "goldilocks" link size.

Materials

Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.15

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

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Solder Paste, Yellow Gold, 14K Soft, 1 Pennyweight from Jewelrlytools

SOL-826.40

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

Gold Filled Lobster w/ Ring 14x5mm - Pack of 1

J3-78

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.10
Gold Club Price: $6.83

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Gold Filled Jump Rings Open (.035) 19ga (OD) 7mm (ID) 5.2mm - Pack of 10

J11-193

Lesson Quantity: 5.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $12.90
Gold Club Price: $9.68

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16 Gauge Round Dead Soft 14/20 Rose Gold Filled Wire

H6-16D

Lesson Quantity: 45.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 10FT
Price: $202.37
Gold Club Price: $151.77

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Gold Filled Bright Beads 4mm - Pack of 10

J9-324

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $6.16
Gold Club Price: $4.62

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Gold Filled Head Pin (027) 22GA 1 1/2 inch - Pack of 10

J8-30

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $8.36
Gold Club Price: $6.27

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Add All Items to Cart

Tools

Aqui Flux, 1/2 Pint Spray Bottle

SOL-932.03

SOL-932.03
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $6.95
Gold Club Price: $5.21

Add to Bag

Cool Cup

SOL-700.00

SOL-700.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $15.97
Gold Club Price: $11.98

Add to Bag

Magnesia Soldering Block

SOL-455.00

SOL-455.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $7.95
Gold Club Price: $5.96

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Head and Shank Tweezer, Economy Model, 5-1/2 Inches

TWZ-600.10

TWZ-600.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.55
Gold Club Price: $7.16

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Copper Pickling Tweezers, Curved, Reinforced, 8-1/2 Inches

TWZ-959.00

TWZ-959.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.95
Gold Club Price: $7.46

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Daddy Dipper Pickle Pot, 24 Ounce Capacity

CLN-585.00

CLN-585.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $45.95
Gold Club Price: $34.46

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Sparex Number 2 Pickling Compound

SOL-802.10

SOL-802.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $7.95
Gold Club Price: $5.96

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Butane Canister 8 Ounces

GAS-1-1PK

GAS-1-1PK
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.95
Gold Club Price: $7.46

Out of Stock

Handy Flame Butane Torch

SOL-315.00

SOL-315.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

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Premium Steel Bench Block 2 1/2 X 2 1/2

G17-9

G17-9
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $15.97
Gold Club Price: $11.98

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7 Piece Mini TruStrike Hammer Set with Stand

HAM-520.70

HAM-520.70
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $140.54
Gold Club Price: $105.40

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WET/DRY PAPER 9 X 11 ASST- 20PC- 2EA GRIT 180-3000

ABR-500.90

ABR-500.90
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $24.95
Gold Club Price: $18.71

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SANDING SPONGES ASST- 5PC- 1EA GRIT 100-400

ABR-600.90

ABR-600.90
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.95
Gold Club Price: $7.46

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Steel Oval Bezel Mandrel - 11 Inches

G7-40

G7-40
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.97
Gold Club Price: $7.48

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WireJewelry Pro-Series Double Barrel Tumbler, Jewelry and Metal Polishing Kit, Includes 2 Pounds of Jewelers Mix Shot and 8 Ounces of Shinebrite Burnishing Compound

G25-2-KIT2SS

G25-2-KIT2SS
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $293.27
Gold Club Price: $219.95

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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches

PLR-487.00

PLR-487.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.97
Gold Club Price: $12.73

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Round Nose Wire Pliers

G2-507

G2-507
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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5 1/2 Inch Nylon Flat Jaw Pliers with Replacement Jaws

G2-1

G2-1
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Price: $9.97
Gold Club Price: $7.48

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5 Piece Steel Mandrel Set

G7-5

G7-5
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $12.95
Gold Club Price: $9.71

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2/0 Relentless Sawblade - Sold by the Dozen

SAW-400.05D

SAW-400.05D
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $3.97
Gold Club Price: $2.98

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4 Inch Saw Frame

SAW-344.00

SAW-344.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $12.95
Gold Club Price: $9.71

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Cut Lube

BUR-180.00

BUR-180.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.95
Gold Club Price: $7.46

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Lindstrom Multi-Purpose Shear, 5-3/4 Inches

G2-6000

G2-6000
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $39.95
Gold Club Price: $29.96

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Optional Tools

Master Jewelry Soldering Kit

G32-MASTER

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $239.93
Gold Club Price: $179.95

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Rotating Square Soldering Platform with 6x6 Solderite Board

SOL-555.98

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $34.95
Gold Club Price: $26.21

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Bow Opening Pliers, 5-1/2 Inches

PLR-729.00 on JewelryTools.com

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

The Complete Jump Ring Forming Set

DUR-1309

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $448.00
Gold Club Price: $336.00

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Add All Items to Cart

Instructions

Step 1

Coil 16-gauge dead soft gold-filled wire tightly on a 7.5mm mandrel and machine cut into 7.5mm ID rings.

For reference 10 feet of wire yields enough rings for multiple pieces 39 rings make a 16 necklace 45 rings make an 18 1/8 necklace (both include clasp).

A small bracelet uses 17 rings 15 rings make an extra-small with 2-ring extender adjust wire gauge and mandrel size for finer or heavier chains.

Final wire length varies with wire temper, coil tension, and cutting method.

Step 2

Separate the rings in half using two soft jaw flat nose pliers to prevent gouging the surface of the gold-filled wire, close half the rings open the remaining rings.

Step 3

Apply a small dot of paste solder to the seam of each closed ring-too much causes excess cleanup too little risks split seams.

Place the ring seam-side down on a soldering surface and heat with a small, pointed-flame torch until the solder flows repeat for all rings.

Soldering under the seam ensures full penetration in one step, as solder follows heat, whereas soldering from the top may leave gaps, requiring flipping and reheating, which increases the risk of fire scale.

Pro Tip: Heat only the seam on gold-filled rings flux prevents fire scale but isn't necessary, and practice on copper to gauge solder amount.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Apply a small dot of paste solder

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, closed ring

Step 4

There should be little to no excess solder to remove if needed, use sanding pads to clean and refine the seams.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, use sanding pads to clean up and refine the seams

Step 5

Use round nose pliers or ring opening pliers, used here, to form each soldered ring into an oval shape.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Use round nose pliers

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Used to form each soldered ring into an oval shape

Step 6

Make sure the seam is positioned so it will be on the end of the oval when shaping is complete.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make sure the seam is positioned

Step 7

If you hear or feel a "clunk," it indicates the seam is failing immediately stop forming the ring, flatten the seam end with chain nose pliers to ensure the ends are flush and tight, and then resolder the seam.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Immediately stop forming the ring flatten the seam end with the tips of chain nose pliers

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Resolder the seam

Step 8

Use the tips of flat nose pliers to flatten each side of the shaped links.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Use the tips of flat nose pliers to flatten each side of the shaped links

Step 9

Place a link on a bench block and texture one side with the rounded face of a mini trustrike planishing hammer, then flip and texture the other side, flipping back to the first side to even out any flattening from the second round of strikes.

If a link appears too narrow or the seam isn't flush, place it on the tip of an 11" steel oval bezel mandrel with the tip resting on the bench block, and lightly tap the seam area to smooth and slightly widen the ends.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Place a link on a bench block

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Flip and texture the other side

Step 10

Why texture the chain? To boost sparkle by increasing light reflection-especially with metals like silver and gold-and to hide surface flaws, making it beginner friendly.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Creating more sparkle

Step 11

If the small link at the end of the clasp is not soldered, solder it closed using the same method as in Step 3 if a break-away link is preferred, leave it open but add another ring of the same size for extra security after all, this is gold, and no one wants to lose it.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Solder it

Step 12

Refine the seam, removing excess solder, being careful to not remove the gold-fill layer on the ring.

Step 13

Add a shaped ring to an open large ring, slide the large ring through the smaller ring on the clasp, and close it securely with the seam ends tight and flush.

Following Step 3, apply a dot of medium paste solder under the seam, place the unit on a soldering surface ensuring no soldered sections touch, heat the seam until the solder flows, cool the piece on a bench block, then clean and refine the seam as in Step 4.

Hint: Keep an old soldering block on hand dig a depression in the block for part of the unit to rest in while the new link to be soldered is placed on the flat block surface.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Shaped ring to an open large ring

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Slide the large ring through the smaller ring on the clasp

Step 14

Holding the extra pieces to the side of the round link and with the seam at the top, insert the round tool tips in the ring.

Stretch the ring into an oval shape as in Step 5.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Holding the extra pieces to the side of the round link

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Insert the round tool tips in the ring.

Step 15

Use flat nose pliers to flatten the sides of the link as in Step 6.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Use flat nose pliers to flatten the sides

Step 16

Holding the extra pieces to the side, place the end of the newly shaped link on the edge of a bench block.

Moving the link around as needed and using the rounded end of a mini trustrike planishing hammer, texture the link as in Step 7.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Place the end of the newly shaped link on the edge of a bench block

Step 17

Add a ring and shaped link to the end of the chain, close the ring, solder the seam as in Step 10, and clean and refine it as in Step.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Add a ring and shaped link to the end of the chain

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Close the ring

Step 18

Continue adding links as in Steps 10-12 until the desired length is achieved.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Clean and refine the seam as in Step 4

Step 19

Two links make a huge difference in length on a bracelet.

16 links plus the clasp will measure 6-7/8" long and fit at 6" on a bracelet cone.

Just adding two more links will take the length to 7-3/8", which will fit at 6½" on a bracelet cone.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Just add two more links

Step 20

20 gauge 5mm ID gold-filled open and closed jump rings were combined to make a necklace extender chain, in much the same way as making the chain itself.

Step 21

The end of an extender chain looks more professional when finished in some way.

Here, a 4mm gold-filled bead on a 22 gauge head pin was added to the end of the extender chain on the necklaces.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, 22 gauge head pin was added to the end of the extender chain

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, On the necklaces

Step 22

It was added to the last link on the bracelet.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, And was also added to the last link on the bracelet

Step 23

To make the earring drop, add two shaped and textured links to an open ring.

Close and solder the ring in the same manner as in Step 10 clean and refine the seam.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Add two shaped

Step 24

Carefully shape and texture the ring following the same techniques and instructions outlined in Steps 13 and 14, ensuring that you replicate the form and surface details accurately.

Once you have completed the first piece, repeat the entire process to create a second ring, which will serve as the matching earring in the pair.

Step 25

Add the three links to earring findings.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Add the three links to earring findings

Step 26

Pickle the pieces to remove fire scale, then neutralize with a quick soak in a baking soda solution and rinse.

Step 27

Tumbling the pieces for several hours will bring up a nice shine.

Where is the 18" necklace? My daughter visited before I had a chance to take photos and it went home with her.

Judy Larson's Hammered Luxury - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Complete set of jewelry

Reviews

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Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!