Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop, Metalwork. Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, . Years of wearing dangling, swinging earrings can cause piercings to elongate, making it more difficult to wear some earrings.

Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop

by Judy Larson
  • Category: Metalwork
  • Technique(s): Making Loops, Design, General Education
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
Years of wearing dangling, swinging earrings can cause piercings to elongate, making it more difficult to wear some earrings. When an earring drop is likely to be too heavy for some ear lobes, using a stud, especially when paired with a large 9.5mm earnut, to hang the drop is a wise choice.

A good basic size cabochon that will fit with many shapes and sizes of drops is 8mm round. Ear studs can be made with any size and shape gemstone following these same basic steps and pairing them with gemstone drops elevates the look.

Materials

8mm Fine Silver Bezel Cup - Pack of 5
F9-03
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $3.97
  • Gold Club Price: $2.98
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20 Gauge Round Half Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire
H19-20H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $12.71
  • Gold Club Price: $9.53
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8mm round cabochon
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
24 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches
H19-24SM6
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 inches
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 3 Inches
  • Price: $392.89
  • Gold Club Price: $294.66
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Sterling Silver Flat Pin Pad 6mm - Pack of 2
K19-84
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $2.16
  • Gold Club Price: $1.62
Out of Stock
Earring drop
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Sterling Silver Earnuts Regular Corrugated 5.5mm - Pack of 4
K19-32
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $3.80
  • Gold Club Price: $2.85
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Tools

Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Pliers, Small Barrels
PLR-746.02
  • PLR-746.02
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $29.95
  • Gold Club Price: $22.46
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Acculoop Precision Round Nose
PLR-741.00
  • PLR-741.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $18.97
  • Gold Club Price: $14.23
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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches
PLR-487.00
  • PLR-487.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $16.97
  • Gold Club Price: $12.73
Out of Stock
WET/DRY PAPER 9 X 11 ASST- 20PC- 2EA GRIT 180-3000
ABR-500.90
  • ABR-500.90
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.95
  • Gold Club Price: $18.71
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Bench Blocks - 130 X 130 X 20
DUR-1187
  • DUR-1187
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $66.67
  • Gold Club Price: $50.00
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Nylon Faced Mallet
HAM-365.05
  • HAM-365.05
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $14.95
  • Gold Club Price: $11.21
Out of Stock
Deluxe Soldering Kit
G15-5
  • G15-5
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $116.97
  • Gold Club Price: $87.73
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WireJewelry Pro-Series Single Barrel Tumbler, Jewelry and Metal Polishing Kit, Includes 1 Pound of Jewelers Mix Shot and 8 Ounces of Shinebrite Burnishing Compound
G25-1-KITSS
  • G25-1-KITSS
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $173.27
  • Gold Club Price: $129.95
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Lindstrom Multi-Purpose Shear, 5-3/4 Inches
G2-6000
  • G2-6000
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $39.95
  • Gold Club Price: $29.96
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Bezel Roller Deluxe
PSH-776.00
  • PSH-776.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $3.98
  • Gold Club Price: $2.98
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Round Nose Wire Pliers
G2-507
  • G2-507
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $32.95
  • Gold Club Price: $24.71
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10 Piece Diamond Needle Files - 140mm X 3mm
G14-8
  • G14-8
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $13.57
  • Gold Club Price: $10.18
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SANDING SPONGES ASST- 5PC- 1EA GRIT 100-400
ABR-600.90
  • ABR-600.90
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $9.95
  • Gold Club Price: $7.46
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12x12 Inch Rubber Mat
MAT-500.00
  • MAT-500.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.95
  • Gold Club Price: $18.71
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12x12 Inch Rubber Mat
MAT-500.00
  • MAT-500.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.95
  • Gold Club Price: $18.71
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Optional Tools
Liver of Sulphur Gel, 1 Ounce Bottle
SOL-610.01
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $9.95
  • Gold Club Price: $7.46
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WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5
G15-20
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $170.72
  • Gold Club Price: $128.04
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Instructions
Step 1
Flush cut the leading end on a 20 gauge wire coil.

Determine the diameter of the cabochon being used.

Working from the wire coil, wind the wire end 1¼ times around a mandrel that is just a bit smaller than the diameter of the cabochon.

In this case, the center step on a Small Barrel Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Pliers was the right size.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Flush cut the leading end
Step 2
Slide the loop down the larger side of the Acculoop Precision Round Nose Plier to enlarge it just enough to fit the bezel cup.

If not sure if a simple or fancier drop loop will be made, a 1" (appx. 25mm) should be sufficient length to cut the wire tail.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Slide the loop down the larger side
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , cut the wire tail.
Step 3
Make sure the bezel cup fits inside the loop and touches the surface below it.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Make sure the bezel
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , touches the surface below it.
Step 4
Bend the wire tail at a 70 -80 degree angle right at the flush cut loop wire end.

Check again to make sure the bezel up fits.

Make any necessary adjustments, making sure the flush cut end of the loop is touching the wire at the corner bend
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Bend the wire tail
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, ,  Check again to make sure the bezel up fits
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Make any necessary adjustments
Step 5
Place 320 grit sandpaper on the edge of a bench block.

Lightly sand one side of the loop to flatten it a bit so there will be better contact with the earring backing during soldering.

DO NOT sand the wire tail.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Place 320 grit sandpaper on the edge of a bench block.
Step 6
Find a piece of 24 gauge scrap sheet metal that is larger than the wire loop.

Place the small sheet metal piece on a bench block and flatten it with a small rubber/nylon mallet.

Lightly sand the surface of the sheet metal and remove the sanding dust when finished
Step 7
Place medium paste solder around the bottom edge of the loop and at the point where the loop end touches the wire end.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Place medium paste solder
Step 8
Place the sheet metal on the soldering surface.

Position the loop, solder side down, on the sheet metal scrap.

The flush cut loop end and wire corner bend should be placed at one edge of the scrap sheet as shown
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Place the sheet metal on the soldering surface.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Position the loop
Step 9
Place a bit of medium paste solder on the back of the bezel cup.

Press the cup down inside the wire loop until it touches the sheet metal.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Place a bit of medium paste solder
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Press the cup down inside the wire loop
Step 10
Heat the assembly until the solder flows.

Allow the assembly to cool before moving it.
Step 11
Pickle the assembly and neutralize it after removing it from the pickle if using Sparex pickle.

Rinse and dry the assembly before continuing.
Step 12
Trim excess sheet metal backing around the 20 gauge wire.

File and refine the edges of the sheet metal backing
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Trim excess sheet metal backing around
Step 13
Press the bezel cup into magnesia soldering block.

The wire will be holding the backing only slightly above the surface of the soldering block.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Press the bezel cup into magnesia soldering block.
Step 14
Sweat solder easy paste solder to the center of the sheet metal on the back of the earring while heating the pad of the earring finding at the same time.

Attach a flat pin pad while the solder is still molten.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Sweat solder easy paste solder to the center of the sheet metal
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Attach a flat pin pad while the solder is still molten.
Step 15
A simple loop works best with the drops shown at the end of this tutorial.

Cut the wire tail 3/8" (6.5mm) long.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Cut the wire tail 3/8 (6.5mm) long.
Step 16
Pickle the earring findings.

Rinse the findings after removing it from the pickle.
Step 17
Tumble the earrings for several hours.
Step 18
Patina the earring findings if desired.

Removing excess patina to highlight the edge of the earring will leave a matte finish on the metal.

Tumble the pieces again for 20 to 30 minutes to bring back a shine.

Rinse and dry the earrings before continuing.
Step 19
Secure the earring post in a ring clamp.

Place the cabochon in the bezel cup.

Use a bezel pusher to push in the bezel cup walls around the cabochon to secure it in the setting.

Because bezel cups have low side walls and the 8mm split calcite beads shown here used as cabochons are high-domed, a bit of E-6000 helps hold them in the bottom of the bezel cup.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, ,  Secure the earring post in a ring clamp
Step 20
Bend the wire tail up at a 45 degree angle toward the cabochon.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Bend the wire tail up
Step 21
Using the tips of a round nose pliers, form a hanging loop toward the earring back using the full 3/8" wire tail length.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Using the tips of a round nose pliers
Step 22
Attach earring drops to the hanging loops.

Left: Twisted wire frames the Septarian cabochons (fossilized mud bubbles) hanging from split bead calcite studs.

Right: Opalized Palm Root cabochons hanging from Black Onyx Studs.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Attach earring drops to the hanging loops.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , Twisted wire frames the Septarian cabochons
Step 23
To help alleviate the pulling on a piercing that can happen when wearing heavier earrings, use a larger ear nut, such as a sterling silver or gold filled 9.5mm ear nut.

Since the ear nut is only a bit smaller than the back of the stud, it will hold the stud securely against the ear lobe and help prevent pulling from the weight of the drop which can elongate the piercing.
Judy Larson's Gemstone Stud Earrings With Hanging Loop - , Metalwork, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, , use a larger ear nut