Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring, Metalwork. Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging. Are you looking for a simple way to capture and wear an awesome piece of pottery or glass? Do you have a rough semi-precious gemstone, or a found object, stone or not, precious to you that would look great showcased in a ring? Explore this freeform bezel project.
Freeform Metal Bezel Ring
by Judy Freyer Thompson
  • Category: Metalwork
  • Technique(s): Forging
  • Skill Level: Beginner
Are you looking for a simple way to capture and wear an awesome piece of pottery or glass? Do you have a rough semi-precious gemstone, or a found object, stone or not, precious to you that would look great showcased in a ring? Explore this freeform bezel project. The material list is simple; the object of your desire, copper sheet, and copper pattern wire.

Materials

24 Gauge 0.020 Dead Soft Copper Sheet Metal - 6x12 Inch
MET-705.24M
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $8.66
  • Gold Club Price: $6.50
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Mirrored Lines Copper Pattern Wire - 3 Feet
H25-11A
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $12.29
  • Gold Club Price: $9.22
Out of Stock
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Tools

Xuron Sheer - Non Serrated
SHR-691.81
  • SHR-691.81
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.97
  • Gold Club Price: $18.73
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Deluxe V-Slot Bench Pin with Clamp
BPN-105.00
  • BPN-105.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $7.97
  • Gold Club Price: $5.98
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Stainless Steel Ring Mandrel Sizes 1-15
G7-2
  • G7-2
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $37.97
  • Gold Club Price: $28.48
Out of Stock
Large Rawhide Hammer 1 1/2 inch - Pack of 1
G3-50
  • G3-50
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $32.95
  • Gold Club Price: $24.71
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Round Nose Wire Plier
G2-507
  • G2-507
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $32.95
  • Gold Club Price: $24.71
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Xuron Flush Cutter - Pack of 1
G2-504
  • G2-504
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $20.97
  • Gold Club Price: $15.73
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Wire Jewelry Cushion Clamp - Pack of 1
G10-1
  • G10-1
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $7.95
  • Gold Club Price: $5.96
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6 Piece Assorted File Set with Wooden Handle
G14-7
  • G14-7
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $5.57
  • Gold Club Price: $4.18
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SANDING SPONGES ASST- 5PC- 1EA GRIT 100-400
ABR-600.90
  • ABR-600.90
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Copper Solder Paste, 1/2 ozt, Soft
SOL-824.10
  • SOL-824.10
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $10.97
  • Gold Club Price: $8.23
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Blazer Stingray Torch, Black
TRCH-4001
  • TRCH-4001
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $49.95
  • Gold Club Price: $37.46
Out of Stock
Fire Brick
SOL-485.00
  • SOL-485.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $11.97
  • Gold Club Price: $8.98
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Wood Handle Metal Brush, Brass
BRS-968.00
  • BRS-968.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $9.57
  • Gold Club Price: $7.18
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Instructions
Step 1
Determine the size of the ring. Wrap a strip of paper around the widest part of your knuckle and mark. Trim the paper and transfer the measurement to the jewelry wire. 
Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring - , Metalwork, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, determine ring size
Step 2
Using the Xuron Flush Cutter, cut the jewelry wire flush. Resting the work on a bench bin, use the cushion clamp to hold the jewelry wire and clean up the ends, making sure they are straight so they will fit together flush. 
Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring - , Metalwork, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, cut the pattern wire
Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring - , Metalwork, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, file the ends
Step 3
To make the band for the ring, wrap the jewelry wire around the ring mandrel, bringing the ends together. If necessary, use the rawhide hammer to form the wire.
Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring - , Metalwork, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, form the ring
Step 4
Place your object on a piece of paper and trace around it. Remove the object and measure the height. Transfer the height dimension to the paper, measuring all the way around the tracing. You have now made a template. Using the template, trace around it to make a second template.
Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring - , Metalwork, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, create a template on paper
Step 5
Now, place the object on the template, and wrap it around the object, testing the fit of the freeform bezel. If any adjustments are made to the template, transfer those adjustments to the second template.  
Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring - , Metalwork, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, test the template
Step 6
Cut out the second template, place it on the copper sheet and trace around it with a permanent marker. Cut the piece out using the metal shears. Smooth the edges using 400 grit sandpaper.   
  
Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring - , Metalwork, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, Trace the template on the copper sheet
Step 7
Lay the piece on a soldering brick and center the ring band on it. Apply paste solder per manufacturer’s instructions, on the ring band join and on the sides of the ring band. Using a handheld torch, heat the jewelry wire and copper template until the solder flows. Let the piece cool and place in pickle solution. Remove and wash with soap and water. 

Pro Tip: Keep in mind the heat from soldering has annealed the copper sheet and wire. To avoid bending the ring band, slide it on the ring mandrel while you work on bending the bezel.
Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring - , Metalwork, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, solder the ring
Step 8
Hold the object in the middle of the bezel and begin to bend the sides up and around the object. You may need to incorporate round nose pliers to further refine the bending process. Continue to bend the bezel to assure the piece is snug. To work harden the band, keep it on the ring mandrel and strike it with the rawhide mallet.   
You can now patina the ring if desired, or simply brass brush it to bring out some shiny highlights.  
Judy Freyer Thompson's Freeform Metal Bezel Ring - , Metalwork, Forging, Forging Jewelry, Jewelry Forging, shape the bezel