Double Loop Ear Wires

by Judy Larson

Category: Findings
Technique(s): Dapping
Skill Level: Beginner

I made a set of embellished connected squares for earrings that I thought would benefit from the look of the wire on the squares extending into the ear wire. These ear wires are not a new idea, but I believe French ear wires wear better with a slightly longer back wire, especially when an ear nut may not always be used to keep the earring on -- been there, done that, lost some precious-to-me earrings.

Materials

20 Gauge Round Full Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-20FH

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $4.24
Gold Club Price: $3.18

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Tools

C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches

PLR-487.00

PLR-487.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.97
Gold Club Price: $12.73

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6 Step Barrel Plier - Pack of 1

G2-503

G2-503
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

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Steel and Wood Bench Block 3x3 Inch

G17-25

G17-25
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $14.97
Gold Club Price: $11.23

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4oz Ball Peen Hammer with Wooden Handle

G3-36

G3-36
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $5.25
Gold Club Price: $3.94

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Wire Rounder Set, 3 pieces

G14-20

G14-20
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $13.95
Gold Club Price: $10.46

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Wire Rounder with Wooden Handle - Pack of 1

G14-19

G14-19
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $7.95
Gold Club Price: $5.96

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Instructions

Step 1

Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies being used and the area being worked in.
Making sure to flush cut both ends or each wire, cut and straighten two 2-11/16" (65mm) pieces of 20 gauge full hard round wire.

Step 2

On a bench block, slightly flatten 3/8" (10mm) on one end of each wire. If the wire is paddled and thinned too much, the ends may break off in the next step, so be careful.

Pro Tip: If the edges of the hammer face are too sharp, the wire can easily become dented. Hold the hammer so the hammer face is angled slightly away from the wire.

Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires

Step 3

Smooth the hammered wire ends with files and/or sanding sponges/paper.

Step 4

For the purposes of this tutorial, use the barrel steps noted in the pliers photo. Using step 1 of the 6 step barrel pliers, make a loop in one end of each wire.

Step 5

Position the wire loop end of a wire between steps 1 and 2 of the 6 step barrel pliers, with the loop facing toward step 2. Make sure the loop is pushed down between the plier jaws as far as it will go. Use your fingers or thumb to push the wire tail around the smaller barrel until it touches the first loop, forming a small teardrop shaped loop.

Step 6

Because one end of the wire was paddled and two loops were formed, the ear wires may no longer be the same length. Hang them both on step 1 of the 6 step pliers. Flush cut the wires to the same length if needed.

Step 7

Position the wire loops end between steps 3 and 4 of the 6 step barrel pliers, with the loops facing toward step 3. Make sure the loops are pushed down snugly between the two barrels. Use your fingers or thumb to push the wire tail around step 4 of the 6 step barrel pliers.

Step 8

Place the ear wire on the edge of a bench block as shown. Use a domed faced hammer to slightly flatten the front edge of the ear wire curve. Do not hammer over the top of the curve. This bench block has a slightly rounded edge which, along with the slightly domed hammer, helps prevent tool edge lines from being imprinted in the metal.

Step 9

One sign of quality workmanship on a jewelry piece constructed with any gauge of wire is finished or smoothed wire ends. It only takes a few seconds and makes a big difference in the final product. Imagine putting an ear wire that has not been smoothed in your ear-ouch! Use a cup bur or files for metal to round the wire ends. Finish the ends with fine gauge sandpaper or sanding pads, checking the ends frequently until they are no longer sharp, but smooth and rounded to the touch. Note: This step could be done any time after Step 6 but it is easier to hold the ear wires between your fingers after shaping the hook.

Step 10

Now that the ear wire ends are finished and will not scratch or mar the surface of a plastic shaping tool, it is time to form the curve. There are many ways to do this, but using a ring bending pliers makes each curve exactly like the one before it. Slide the ear wire between the jaws of the ring bending tool as shown, with the ear wire loop pressing against the tool. Squeeze. Perfect curve every time! Alternative method: Shape the wire ends on the center barrel of a large Wrap-N-Tap pliers.

Step 11

Use a cup bur or metal file (or emery board) to smooth the ends of the wires. The ear wires can be tumbled to polish them if desired, but it should not be necessary because the wire used was full hard.

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!