Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin. Dapping, Dapping Jewelry. I made a set of embellished connected squares for earrings that I thought would benefit from the look of the wire on the squares extending into the ear wire.
Double Loop Ear Wires
by Judy Larson
  • Category: Findings
  • Technique(s): Dapping
  • Skill Level: Beginner
I made a set of embellished connected squares for earrings that I thought would benefit from the look of the wire on the squares extending into the ear wire. These ear wires are not a new idea, but I believe French ear wires wear better with a slightly longer back wire, especially when an ear nut may not always be used to keep the earring on -- been there, done that, lost some precious-to-me earrings.

Materials

20 Gauge Round Full Hard Argentium .930 Silver Wire
H19-20FH
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $3.19
  • Gold Club Price: $2.40
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Tools

C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches
PLR-487.00
  • PLR-487.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $16.97
  • Gold Club Price: $12.73
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6 Step Barrel Plier - Pack of 1
G2-503
  • G2-503
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $18.95
  • Gold Club Price: $14.21
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Steel and Wood Bench Block 3x3 Inch
G17-25
  • G17-25
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $14.97
  • Gold Club Price: $11.23
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4oz Ball Peen Hammer with Wooden Handle
G3-36
  • G3-36
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $5.25
  • Gold Club Price: $3.94
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Wire Rounder Set, 3 pieces
G14-20
  • G14-20
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $13.95
  • Gold Club Price: $10.46
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Wire Rounder with Wooden Handle - Pack of 1
G14-19
  • G14-19
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $7.95
  • Gold Club Price: $5.96
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Instructions
Step 1
Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies being used and the area being worked in.
Making sure to flush cut both ends or each wire, cut and straighten two 2-11/16" (65mm) pieces of 20 gauge full hard round wire.
Step 2
On a bench block, slightly flatten 3/8" (10mm) on one end of each wire. If the wire is paddled and thinned too much, the ends may break off in the next step, so be careful.
Pro Tip: If the edges of the hammer face are too sharp, the wire can easily become dented. Hold the hammer so the hammer face is angled slightly away from the wire.
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Step 3
Smooth the hammered wire ends with files and/or sanding sponges/paper.
Step 4
For the purposes of this tutorial, use the barrel steps noted in the pliers photo. Using step 1 of the 6 step barrel pliers, make a loop in one end of each wire.
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Step 5
Position the wire loop end of a wire between steps 1 and 2 of the 6 step barrel pliers, with the loop facing toward step 2. Make sure the loop is pushed down between the plier jaws as far as it will go. Use your fingers or thumb to push the wire tail around the smaller barrel until it touches the first loop, forming a small teardrop shaped loop.
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Step 6
Because one end of the wire was paddled and two loops were formed, the ear wires may no longer be the same length. Hang them both on step 1 of the 6 step pliers. Flush cut the wires to the same length if needed.
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Step 7
Position the wire loops end between steps 3 and 4 of the 6 step barrel pliers, with the loops facing toward step 3. Make sure the loops are pushed down snugly between the two barrels. Use your fingers or thumb to push the wire tail around step 4 of the 6 step barrel pliers.
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Step 8
Place the ear wire on the edge of a bench block as shown. Use a domed faced hammer to slightly flatten the front edge of the ear wire curve. Do not hammer over the top of the curve. This bench block has a slightly rounded edge which, along with the slightly domed hammer, helps prevent tool edge lines from being imprinted in the metal.
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Step 9
One sign of quality workmanship on a jewelry piece constructed with any gauge of wire is finished or smoothed wire ends. It only takes a few seconds and makes a big difference in the final product. Imagine putting an ear wire that has not been smoothed in your ear-ouch! Use a cup bur or files for metal to round the wire ends. Finish the ends with fine gauge sandpaper or sanding pads, checking the ends frequently until they are no longer sharp, but smooth and rounded to the touch. Note: This step could be done any time after Step 6 but it is easier to hold the ear wires between your fingers after shaping the hook.
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Step 10
Now that the ear wire ends are finished and will not scratch or mar the surface of a plastic shaping tool, it is time to form the curve. There are many ways to do this, but using a ring bending pliers makes each curve exactly like the one before it. Slide the ear wire between the jaws of the ring bending tool as shown, with the ear wire loop pressing against the tool. Squeeze. Perfect curve every time! Alternative method: Shape the wire ends on the center barrel of a large Wrap-N-Tap pliers.
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Judy Larson's Double Loop Ear Wires - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, double loop ear wires
Step 11
Use a cup bur or metal file (or emery board) to smooth the ends of the wires. The ear wires can be tumbled to polish them if desired, but it should not be necessary because the wire used was full hard.