Double Link Chain

by Judy Larson

Category: Chain Maille
Technique(s): Chain Making, Butane Torch Techniques, Chain Maille
Skill Level: Beginner

Judy Larson shares the story behind a bold Double Link Chain inspired by vintage family jewelry. When store-bought chains didn't feel right, a look through treasured pieces from the past sparked the perfect idea.

This design blends simple construction with a chunky, timeless look that's full of meaning!

Materials

Liquid soap

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

Sterling Silver Heart Lobster 6x12mm - Pack of 1

K3-93

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $6.63
Gold Club Price: $4.97

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Optional Materials

16 Gauge Round Dead Soft Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-16D

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 inches
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
Price: $120.40
Gold Club Price: $90.30

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12 Gauge Round Dead Soft Copper Wire

H11-12D

Lesson Quantity: 6.00 inches
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $2.35
Gold Club Price: $1.76

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Add All Items to Cart

Tools

Wubbers Large Bail Making Pliers

G2-1303

G2-1303
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $27.97
Gold Club Price: $20.98

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Flat Nose Wire Pliers

G2-506

G2-506
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Premium Nylon Jaw Pliers

G2-35

G2-35
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Price: $14.95
Gold Club Price: $11.21

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Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.15

SOL-822.15
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $35.95
Gold Club Price: $26.96

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6 Piece Assorted File Set with Wooden Handle

G14-7

G14-7
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $5.57
Gold Club Price: $4.18

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SANDING SPONGES ASST- 5PC- 1EA GRIT 100-400

ABR-600.90

ABR-600.90
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.95
Gold Club Price: $7.46

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Bench Vise, 2 Inch Jaws

VIS-204.20

VIS-204.20
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $13.95
Gold Club Price: $10.46

Out of Stock

Bench Blocks - 130 X 130 X 20

DUR-1187

DUR-1187
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Price: $66.67
Gold Club Price: $50.00

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Weighted Rawhide Mallet

HAM-408.00

HAM-408.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $79.95
Gold Club Price: $59.96

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Deluxe Soldering Kit

G15-5

G15-5
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $116.97
Gold Club Price: $87.73

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Optional Tools

The Quad Jump Ring Former

DUR-1312

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $388.00
Gold Club Price: $291.00

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Instructions

Step 1

Introduction

Like many of my designs, this chain began with a simple goal. I wanted to recreate something I couldn't find anymore: the chains from three charm bracelets that were about 40 to 60 years old. After studying them closely, I realized that two of the three designs looked simple enough to recreate myself.

At the same time, I had just finished twenty heart charms that needed a bracelet or necklace chain. As I studied my existing charm bracelet chains and started thinking through how I could build one, something kept nagging at me. Whenever that happens, I usually take a dive into the jewelry my mother and grandmother owned. This time it paid off. My father had given my mother a chunky double ring necklace for Valentine's Day in the 1950s, and once I saw it again, I knew exactly what I wanted to make. I decided to go with a chunky bracelet chain inspired by that necklace.

Thanks, Mom and Dad.

Step 2

Making the Jump Rings

Make 16 gauge 6mm ID Argentium or sterling silver jump rings for this chain.

Alternate sizes:

18 gauge 5.5mm ID rings for a finer chain

20 gauge 5mm ID rings for a lighter chain similar to early 1960s charm bracelet chains

Twenty-nine double links produce a chain approximately 6¼ inches long.

Five double links measure approximately 1-1/6 inches (about 27mm).

The finished chain in this tutorial is connected with a 12 gauge 8mm ID jump ring.

Note: Practicing with base metal before using precious metal is recommended.

Step 3

Solder the First Ring

Close one jump ring, ensuring the seam is tightly closed.

Place a small amount of medium paste solder under the seam and place the ring on the soldering surface.

Heat the ring with a torch until the solder flows through the seam.

Allow the ring to cool before continuing.

Clean solder overflow, dark areas, and uneven ends before attaching additional rings.

Step 4

Add the Second Ring

Add a second jump ring to the soldered ring and close the seam tightly.

Important: Position the two rings so they nest together in the same orientation used throughout the chain.

Step 5

Solder the Second Ring

Place a small amount of medium paste solder under the seam.

Position the ring so the seam touches or is very close to the soldering surface to help keep solder in place during heating.

Heat until the solder flows through the seam, then allow the ring to cool.

Clean the seam after soldering.

Step 6

Add the Next Ring

Ensure the first two soldered rings are nested correctly.

Add another ring and close the seam tightly.

Step 7

Position for Soldering

When placing the chain on the soldering surface, position the existing rings behind the new ring so the seam rests against the surface.

Place paste solder under the seam.

Step 8

Create the Double Link Structure

Hold the previous two rings.

Allow the newly added ring to fall to the side.

Add another ring that captures:

the previous two rings

the single ring just added

Step 9

Solder the Link

Place the chain section on the soldering surface.

Place a dot of medium paste solder under the seam and heat until the solder flows through the seam.

Step 10

Continue Building the Chain

Continue adding sets of two rings until the desired chain length is reached.

At this stage, the chain measures approximately 6-3/16 inches.

Step 11

Pickle and Clean the Chain

Pickle the chain to remove fire scale or discoloration.

Rinse the chain.

While still wet, roll the chain between the hands with a small amount of liquid soap to reduce fine metal burrs created during soldering.

Rinse and dry the chain.

Step 12

Add End Rings

The chain twists in a spiral at this stage.

Add a 16, 14, or 12 gauge 8mm ID jump ring to each end of the chain.

Only one of these rings needs to be soldered closed, although both may be soldered.

Attach 12 gauge copper sacrifice rings to the ends of the chain. These rings will be removed after shaping.

Step 13

Confirm Link Orientation

Because of the way the rings are interlocked in this tutorial, the chain must be twisted counterclockwise to flatten.

If any rings are connected in the opposite orientation, the chain will not flatten correctly.

If all rings are connected in the opposite orientation, the chain must be twisted clockwise.

Step 14

Twist the Chain

Secure a vise to the work surface.

Clamp one sacrifice ring in the vise.

Insert a rod or mandrel through the sacrifice ring at the opposite end.

Keep the chain taut while twisting the mandrel counterclockwise until the chain becomes as flat as possible.

Remove the chain from the vise and remove the mandrel.

Step 15

Anneal the Chain

Place the chain on the soldering surface and gently heat to anneal.

Avoid overheating and melting the solder joints.

Step 16

Pickle Again

Pickle the chain again to remove discoloration.

Rinse the chain.

While still wet, roll the chain between the hands with liquid soap.

Step 17

Inspect the Seams

Inspect each ring for split seams.

If any seams have opened, reposition them tightly and resolder.

Step 18

Flatten the Chain

If the chain is not fully flat, place it across two bench blocks and lightly tap along the length with a rawhide mallet.

Using two bench blocks prevents the chain from catching on the edge of a single block.

Step 19

Correct Remaining Twist

If the chain remains slightly twisted, grasp it with two soft jaw pliers.

Twist the chain slightly while angling the pliers downward.

Repeat along the length of the chain as needed.

Check all seams and resolder if necessary.

Pickle and wash the chain again.

Step 20

Prepare for Tumbling

At this stage the chain has a satin finish from pickling and soap cleaning.

Before tumbling, connect the ends of the chain with a jump ring to prevent the loose end links from twisting.

Step 21

Finish the Chain

The chain is ready for finishing.

A heart clasp fits the width of the chain well.

Jump rings used to attach the clasp extend the bracelet length to approximately 7 inches.

An extender chain may be added for additional length.

Other finishing options include: end caps or box clasp.

Step 22

Why not finish with a vintage hook and extender chain like Mom's necklace?

The hook's curved end closes tightly to prevent slipping from extender chain.

It needs a gentle tug to hook into a link.

Recreate the necklace with these specs:
- 18" long with 1 1/3" extender.
- Each large oval (two per link): 1.21mm thick (18 gauge), 17mm x 20.5mm.
- Each hook: ~2" of 10mm half round wire. Practice with 14 gauge base metal first.
- Short hooks challenge heavier gauges more than long ones.

Step 23

Optional Extender chain

Five 16 gauge 5.5mm ID rings, soldered and made oval.

Oval ring extender appears made with oval wire.

Twist as in this tutorial, then flatten in rolling mill or with hammer.

Step 24

Rings connecting extender and hook to the necklace:

Two 12 gauge round wire ring 7.5mm ID (14 gauge wire will work just as well)

Reviews

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Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!