Double Foxtail Chain

by Judy Larson

Category: Design
Technique(s): Chain Making, Making Loops
Skill Level: Intermediate

In this latest project, Judy Larson explores two variations of the classic Foxtail Chain bracelet. From experimenting with ring sizes for a more supple drape to adding extender chains, charms, and clever finishing touches, this guide shows how small adjustments can elevate both the look and wearability of your design.

Materials

20 Gauge Round Dead Soft Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-20D

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 feet
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $7.13
Gold Club Price: $5.35

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Tools

Round Nose Wire Pliers

G2-507

G2-507
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Flat Nose Wire Pliers

G2-506

G2-506
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Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
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20 X 15 Inch Padded Work Mat

MAT-620.00

MAT-620.00
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Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $14.95
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Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Pliers, Large Barrels

PLR-746.03

PLR-746.03
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Price: $29.95
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Straight Steel Pick

CVR-400.30

CVR-400.30
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Price: $3.95
Gold Club Price: $2.96

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Rosewood Handheld Draw Plate

G28-8

G28-8
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Price: $17.97
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WireJewelry Single Barrel Tumbler, Jewelry and Metal Polishing Kit, Includes 1 Pound of Jewelers Mix Shot and 8 Ounces of Shinebrite Burnishing Compound

G24-1-KITSS

G24-1-KITSS
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Price: $173.27
Gold Club Price: $129.95

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12 Inch Stainless Steel Ruler

G7-30

G7-30
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Price: $2.97
Gold Club Price: $2.23

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WireJewelry Ultra Pro Micro Abrasive Polishing Pads, 20 pack

G9-5-20PK

G9-5-20PK
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Liver of Sulphur Gel, 1 Ounce Bottle

SOL-610.01

SOL-610.01
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Price: $9.95
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Optional Tools

The Quad Jump Ring Former

DUR-1312

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Price: $388.00
Gold Club Price: $291.00

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WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5

G15-20

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Price: $170.72
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Deluxe Soldering Kit

G15-5

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Instructions

Step 1:

Before You Get Started

About the Bracelets

The bracelets shown here are a small size, measuring 6¼" on a bracelet cone. They use 6.5mm x 6mm end caps (actually crimp cord ends) and 16mm swivel lobster claw clasps, which add to the overall length, so fewer rings were needed for each bracelet. Both chains were drawn down to 13/64".

The finished bracelet on the right, made with 12mm ID rings, is noticeably more supple and fluid than the one on the left, which was made with 10mm ID rings.

Adding a 1" extender chain to both bracelets made them adjustable.

As a finishing touch, and for a bit of whimsy, heart charms were added to the end caps along with the extender chains.

End caps are optional. Jump rings can easily attach clasps and extenders directly to the loops at the ends of the chains.

Forty-nine 10mm rings were used to make the left bracelet. If end caps are not used, add 5-7 extra rings.

Thirty-eight 12mm rings were used to make the right bracelet. If end caps are not used, add 4-6 extra rings.

The number of jump rings listed is approximate.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - Before You Get Started, Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, double foxtail chains

Step 2

Foxtail Chain aka Loop-in-Loop

The tutorial for the simple single loop Foxtail Chain aka Loop-in-Loop which details the basic construction and formation of the ring links is found here.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, foxtail chain aka loop in loop

Step 3:

Starting The Project

Making short practice chains will help you decide which link size works best for you. Each single foxtail chain shown on a 1" grid is made with 10 links and has been drawn down to 3/16". Even when the chains are pulled through a round hole in a draw plate, they maintain their square shape.

The top chain is made with 20-gauge 10mm ID Argentium rings. The bottom chain is made with 20-gauge 12mm ID Argentium rings.

Step 4

With the center of a bowtie shape held between the tips of round nose pliers, form it into a "U" shape by bending it over one of the plier tips using your fingers.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, form into a U by bending over one

Step 5

Repeat this process to make two "U" shapes, then set them aside to start the chain.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, repeat this process to make two U shapes

Step 6

The bowtie shapes for the rest of the chain are made the same way as before, but instead of forming a full "U," bend them only halfway. On the work surface, they should resemble tiny birds in flight.

Shaping them slightly at this stage helps set a memory in the wire, showing where the center is and where each link should bend.

This small step makes the bending process easier and ensures more even shapes in later steps.

Hint: Because the rings were work-hardened when forming the bowtie shapes, bending many of them again can be tough on your fingers.

Annealing the shapes before this step can make the process easier, but it isn't required.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, bend them only half-way

Step 7

Connecting the links can be tricky, especially with the smaller 10mm rings. To make it easier, use flat nose pliers to gently squish one loop of each "bird wing" shape slightly together.

If you can see the fused end of the ring, avoid squeezing that side. The extra pressure can cause the join to pop open.

If a join does break, flatten the piece slightly and re-fuse the area before continuing.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, squished together slightly using a flat nose pliers

Step 8

Alternate method for Step 6 and 7

If you have a large Wrap N Tap pliers, this is the best tool for curving the links.

First, squish one side of the oval. Then, shape the piece over the middle level of the large Wrap N Tap pliers.

Hold the squished end firmly between the jaws, and press the more rounded end around the curve of the plier jaws.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, press the more rounded end

Step 9

Start by attaching a twist tie or a short 3" piece of scrap wire to the bottom of one of the "U" shapes. This keeps sharp wire ends from poking or scratching while you work.

Before drawing the chain down, replace the twist tie with actual wire to keep the chain even.

Next, slide a new "U" shape into the first one by inserting one side of the new link into the opening of the first link. Pull the second link up and into the rounded tip of the first, aligning both links neatly to form the start of your chain.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, adding u links to the chain

Step 10

Push the second link slightly back into the first link.

In photo 1, the awl points to the area where the next link will be added. In photos 2 and 3, it shows the awl being pushed into that same spot.

By inserting the awl there, you can gently enlarge the opening to make it easier to add the next link.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Push the second link

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, pushed into photos 2 and 3

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, pushing the awl into the links

Step 11

To make it easier to see in the photos and clearly show where to insert the new link, a flat link is used here instead of a curved "bird wings" shape.

For this first link added after starting the chain, the inserted end doesn't need to be squished much. The initial opening is larger than those that follow.

Insert the new link into the opening indicated by the awl in Step 10.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, insert the new link

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, insert the new link into the opening

Step 12

When working with shaped 12mm rings, inserting a new link into the chain is usually easy.

The 10mm rings, however, can be more difficult. Even after flattening one side of the new link, you may still need to enlarge the opening with an awl.

The turquoise-handled awl shown comes from sewing tools, while the silver one is from my father-in-law's watchmaking tools. Very fine-tipped round nose pliers can also work well.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Push and twist the awl into the opening

Step 13

Push and twist the awl into the opening from one side, then repeat from the other side to even out the space.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, repeat the process

Step 14

Push a new link into the opening of the chain, as shown in the first photo.

If the side of the new link that went through the chain was flattened, use an awl or the tips of round nose pliers to round it back out.

Shape it until it matches the size and curve of the other end of the link, as shown in the second photo.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, push a new link into the hole in the chain

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, use an awl of the round nose pliers to round the flattened link end

Step 15

Twist the link to perpendicular to the chain.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, insert the link

Step 16

Use fingers to bend both loop ends in a "U" shape toward the end of the chain as the arrows indicate.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, use fingers to bend both loops

Step 17

Notice how much smaller the opening is for inserting the new link compared to the first one at the beginning of the chain.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, the hole should be enlarged with an awl before inserting

Step 18

If one side of the link isn't flattened, it won't fit. That's why the hole should be enlarged with an awl before inserting a "bird wing" shaped ring from Step 14, and one side of the new link should be gently squished.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, use flat nose pliers to provide the grip needed

Step 19

Use flat nose pliers to get a firm grip and push the new link securely into the chain.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, push the new link into the chain

Step 20

After all the manipulating, the links have become work-hardened and more difficult to bend.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Do not flatten the U completely with soft jaw pliers

Step 21

To make this step easier, start finishing the "U" shaped bend using soft jaw pliers. Do not flatten the "U" completely.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, using nylon jaw pliers

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, use flat nose pliers to press them together

Step 22

Insert an awl into the two end loops. While the loops are on the awl, use flat nose pliers to press them together.

This helps ensure that the ends of the link are even.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, loops are on the awl using flat nose pliers

Step 23

Continue adding links to the chain until it is a bit shorter than the desired finished length.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Continue adding links

Step 24

Remove the twist tie or scrap wire.

As with the Single Foxtail Chain, you'll notice that the chain links aren't perfectly even. Don't worry-this will smooth out once the chain is drawn through a drawplate.

You may also see that the chain feels stiff or has small kinks. That's normal. The chain will become more supple and shiny after tumbling.

The photo shows how much curve appears in chains made with different ring sizes but similar lengths. The 8" chain on the left, made with fifty-seven 12mm ID rings, is much more flexible than the 8½" chain on the right, which uses seventy-eight 10mm ID rings.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Remove the twist tie or scrap wire.

Step 25

Instruction for Annealing The Chain

Before using a drawplate, anneal the chain.

Softening the links makes it easier for them to compress into an even size and shape when pulled through a drawplate.

Remove the twist tie or scrap wire, then place two soldering bricks side by side to lay the chain out evenly. This setup helps prevent overheating one section and accidentally fusing links together.

If the chain turns dark pink, orange, or red, it has been overheated and some links may have fused.

Move the torch flame slowly along the chain. It only needs to be heated until there's a faint hint of color, which will fade as you move down the length.

Allow the chain to cool naturally on the soldering bricks before touching or moving it.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, two soldering bricks with chain about to be annealed

Step 26

Even though there is no fire scale to be removed, it may be helpful to pickle the chain at this time.

Rinse and dry the chain before continuing.

Step 27

Attach a scrap piece of wire to one end of the chain. Use pliers with teeth to grip the wire and pull the chain through the drawplate.

Start with a hole slightly larger than the chain. Gradually work down the drawplate until you feel resistance. Pull the chain through that hole three or four times before moving to the next smaller size.

Only draw the chain down two hole sizes before annealing again to prevent the links from becoming brittle.

Hint: If you want to test how far a chain can safely be drawn down, make a short sample with 10 links first. This way, you won't risk ruining a full chain if it becomes overly stiff-tumbling won't fix that.

The photo shows two sample chains made with 10 rings each. The top chain uses 12mm rings, and the bottom uses 10mm rings. Both were drawn down to 13/64" in diameter, fitting snugly into 5mm ID end caps (like the bracelets in Steps 28 and 29).

If you prefer an easier fit, use 6mm ID end caps so the chain doesn't need to be compressed to fit inside.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Pull the chain through that hole three or four times

Step 28

To become more fluid and supple, the chain can be tumbled in water with Dawn dish liquid and steel shot for several hours.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, tumbled in water with Dawn dish liquid

Step 29

Adding patina and removing it from the high areas of the chain will highlight the intricate work.

The first photo gives you an idea of chain size on my wrist, which measures a bit over 5½".

The second photo shows the finished chain with patina.

In both photos, the chain on the left is made with 10mm rings and the one on the right is made with 12mm rings.

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, idea of chain size on my wrist

Judy Larson's Double Foxtail Chain - , Wire Jewelry Design, Making Chain, Chain Making , Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, finished chain with patina

Reviews

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Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!