Disc Cutter Earrings Remodel
- Category: Metalwork
- Technique(s): Cutting, Filing / Finishing, Butane Torch Techniques
- Skill Level: Intermediate
10 years ago I was gifted some sterling silver earrings. While I really loved them, they were problematic to wear. The ear wire portion was too easily bent out of shape when putting them on, taking them off, and even storing in a jewelry box.
Constantly having to reshape the ear wires made them brittle and it was not long before one of the ear wire sections broke off. They went into the Remodel Box and were recently "discovered" when I was on a cleaning and organizing spree.
Constantly having to reshape the ear wires made them brittle and it was not long before one of the ear wire sections broke off. They went into the Remodel Box and were recently "discovered" when I was on a cleaning and organizing spree.
Materials
24 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches
H19-24SM6
- Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 3 Inches
- Price: $123.97
- Gold Club Price: $92.98
Two focal elements
- Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Cabochon - Choose 2 stones from our cabochon sellection
Sterling Silver Earwire 24mm w/ 2.5mm Ball Long - Pack of 2
K19-37
- Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $2.79
- Gold Club Price: $2.09
Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.15
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $18.95
- Gold Club Price: $14.21
Tools
Handy Flame Butane Torch
SOL-315.00
- SOL-315.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $29.95
- Gold Club Price: $22.46
Butane Canister 8 Ounces
GAS-1-1PK
- GAS-1-1PK
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $9.95
- Gold Club Price: $7.46
Magnesia Soldering Block
SOL-455.00
- SOL-455.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $7.95
- Gold Club Price: $5.96
PUMICE- 1 LB BAG
SOL-522.01
- SOL-522.01
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $8.95
- Gold Club Price: $6.71
WireJewelry 9 Inch Rotating Fire Brick Turntable
G32-99
- G32-99
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $29.95
- Gold Club Price: $22.46
Sparex Number 2 Pickling Compound
SOL-802.10
- SOL-802.10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $7.95
- Gold Club Price: $5.96
Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces
CLN-584.00
- CLN-584.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $31.95
- Gold Club Price: $23.96
Large Disc Cutter
DAP-410.10
- DAP-410.10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $55.95
- Gold Club Price: $41.96
Small Disc Cutter, 7 Pieces
DAP-400.10
- DAP-400.10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $46.95
- Gold Club Price: $35.21
Metal Cutting Shears
SHR-536.00
- SHR-536.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $14.97
- Gold Club Price: $11.23
Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Pliers, Large Barrels
PLR-746.03
- PLR-746.03
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $29.95
- Gold Club Price: $22.46
7 Piece Mini TruStrike Hammer Set with Stand
HAM-520.70
- HAM-520.70
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $140.54
- Gold Club Price: $105.40
Bench Block Helper with Steel and Nylon Blocks
DAP-500.30
- DAP-500.30
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $29.95
- Gold Club Price: $22.46
WET/DRY PAPER 9 X 11 ASST- 20PC- 2EA GRIT 180-3000
ABR-500.90
- ABR-500.90
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $24.95
- Gold Club Price: $18.71
SANDING SPONGES ASST- 5PC- 1EA GRIT 100-400
ABR-600.90
- ABR-600.90
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $9.95
- Gold Club Price: $7.46
Economy Needle File Set, 6 Piece Set
FIL-993.00
- FIL-993.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $7.95
- Gold Club Price: $5.96
ultra fine retractable Sharpie
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Nylon Bracelet Bending Plier
PLR-840.00
- PLR-840.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $19.97
- Gold Club Price: $14.98
Liver of Sulphur Gel, 1 Ounce Bottle
SOL-610.01
- SOL-610.01
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $9.95
- Gold Club Price: $7.46
WireJewelry Pro-Series Double Barrel Tumbler, Jewelry and Metal Polishing Kit, Includes 2 Pounds of Jewelers Mix Shot and 8 Ounces of Shinebrite Burnishing Compound
G25-2-KIT2SS
- G25-2-KIT2SS
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $293.27
- Gold Club Price: $219.95
Straight Copper Tongs
TWZ-958.00
- TWZ-958.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $10.57
- Gold Club Price: $7.93
Cross Lock Tweezers Straight
TWZ-740.00
- TWZ-740.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $5.80
- Gold Club Price: $4.35
Premium Soldering Pick with Shield
SPK-777.00
- SPK-777.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $23.95
- Gold Club Price: $17.96
Optional Tools
Master Jewelry Soldering Kit
G32-MASTER
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $239.93
- Gold Club Price: $179.95
Cool Cup
SOL-700.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $15.97
- Gold Club Price: $11.98
Multi Angle Cutting Jig
VIS-512.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $84.95
- Gold Club Price: $63.71
Instructions
Step 1
As with most remodels, the parts were separated.
Hold an earring over a solder block and heat with a butane torch until the solder flows and the wire can be pulled free.
One of the earrings was pretty much destroyed when trying to open the seam to separate the ear wire from the drop but the other was still usable.
The remaining earring was approximately 6mm thick, and as luck would have it there was a small piece of 24 gauge sterling silver sheet in my stash.
After flattening the other earring and determining the dimensions needed, a disc cutter was used to cut a second piece in sterling silver-second photo.
The narrow metal section at the top of the 1⁄2" inner hole in the 1" disc is about 3/32" wide.
Hold an earring over a solder block and heat with a butane torch until the solder flows and the wire can be pulled free.
One of the earrings was pretty much destroyed when trying to open the seam to separate the ear wire from the drop but the other was still usable.
The remaining earring was approximately 6mm thick, and as luck would have it there was a small piece of 24 gauge sterling silver sheet in my stash.
After flattening the other earring and determining the dimensions needed, a disc cutter was used to cut a second piece in sterling silver-second photo.
The narrow metal section at the top of the 1⁄2" inner hole in the 1" disc is about 3/32" wide.
Step 2
Put the original piece on top of the new piece to mark where to cut away that bit of metal use metal shears to cut away the small metal strip to make the two matching pieces.
The diameter of the remaining earring was 1" so the sheet metal to be cut had to be a bit larger.
I chose a larger piece because my eyesight makes it difficult to center a small one in the 1" disc cutter hole without it appearing uneven, and if the 1⁄2" hole is off-center, there might not be enough metal on one edge for the 1" disc cut better safe than sorry.
How I cut the matching piece Cut the 1⁄2" disc first, leaving approximately 1/8" between the edge of the sheet and the edge of the hole.
Place the sheet metal in the 1" hole, with the edge of the 1⁄2" hole approximately 5/32" from the edge of where the 1" disc will be cut.
If I make these again Cut the 1⁄2" hole right at the edge of the sheet metal.
When positioning the sheet metal to cut the 1" disc, position the narrow edge of the 1⁄2" hole at the edge of where the 1" disc will be cut secure the sheet metal in place and cut the disc.
The diameter of the remaining earring was 1" so the sheet metal to be cut had to be a bit larger.
I chose a larger piece because my eyesight makes it difficult to center a small one in the 1" disc cutter hole without it appearing uneven, and if the 1⁄2" hole is off-center, there might not be enough metal on one edge for the 1" disc cut better safe than sorry.
How I cut the matching piece Cut the 1⁄2" disc first, leaving approximately 1/8" between the edge of the sheet and the edge of the hole.
Place the sheet metal in the 1" hole, with the edge of the 1⁄2" hole approximately 5/32" from the edge of where the 1" disc will be cut.
If I make these again Cut the 1⁄2" hole right at the edge of the sheet metal.
When positioning the sheet metal to cut the 1" disc, position the narrow edge of the 1⁄2" hole at the edge of where the 1" disc will be cut secure the sheet metal in place and cut the disc.
Step 3
Place each piece on a bench block.
Texture the surface of each with a Mini TruStrike Designer Texture Hammer.
For a little more interest, use the larger side of a small Mini TruStrike Embossing Hammer to make a few divots/round dents across the surface of each piece.
Texture the surface of each with a Mini TruStrike Designer Texture Hammer.
For a little more interest, use the larger side of a small Mini TruStrike Embossing Hammer to make a few divots/round dents across the surface of each piece.
Step 4
Check through your scrap box for pieces that might work with the newly textured pieces.
Are you looking to add a little color to your life or are you going to stick with plain silver? there were lots of 16 gauge square wire circle pairs in the remodel box to choose from.
Are you looking to add a little color to your life or are you going to stick with plain silver? there were lots of 16 gauge square wire circle pairs in the remodel box to choose from.
Step 5
Circles are great to have on hand as they can be formed into any shape.
Step 6
Instead of using the circles, I decided to cut two 3" long pieces of 16 gauge square wire and anneal them.
Once cooled, make sure the wire is straight and not twisted. Use a large Wrap 'N' Tap pliers to make a teardrop shape with the wire, as shown in the photos.
The lower curve should mimic the lower curve of the 1⁄2" hole sometimes I get so into a project that I forget to take some process photos.
That's why these teardrops are already soldered file one wire at a 45-degree angle where the two wires cross at the top using a miter jig and vise for a flat, flush join while leaving the other wire tail in place (see Step 8 for the reasoning).
Once cooled, make sure the wire is straight and not twisted. Use a large Wrap 'N' Tap pliers to make a teardrop shape with the wire, as shown in the photos.
The lower curve should mimic the lower curve of the 1⁄2" hole sometimes I get so into a project that I forget to take some process photos.
That's why these teardrops are already soldered file one wire at a 45-degree angle where the two wires cross at the top using a miter jig and vise for a flat, flush join while leaving the other wire tail in place (see Step 8 for the reasoning).
Step 7
Place a small amount of medium paste solder under the seam of one shape placed on a soldering surface.
Use a butane torch head on a butane canister to heat the piece until the solder flows. Repeat for the other teardrop piece.
Allow the pieces to cool before continuing If not adding bezel set stones, consider soldering a jump ring at the top of the teardrop to hang a gemstone drop from-second photo.
Use a butane torch head on a butane canister to heat the piece until the solder flows. Repeat for the other teardrop piece.
Allow the pieces to cool before continuing If not adding bezel set stones, consider soldering a jump ring at the top of the teardrop to hang a gemstone drop from-second photo.
Step 8
Use an ultra-fine point retractable sharpie to mark the center bottom of the disc and the center bottom of the teardrop.
A small gridded ruler or a small piece of gridded clear plastic is invaluable for finding the center of something as well as centering one piece on top of another.
A small gridded ruler or a small piece of gridded clear plastic is invaluable for finding the center of something as well as centering one piece on top of another.
Step 9
Mark the disk around the inside of the teardrop. Cut away some of the excess metal.
Don't try to make the curve of the disc match the curve of the teardrop so leave a little to file away after soldering.
Don't try to make the curve of the disc match the curve of the teardrop so leave a little to file away after soldering.
Step 10
Place a small amount of medium paste solder on the back of the teardrop where it will attach to the disc.
Press the teardrop in place on the disc on a soldering surface, aligning the center marks, and use a wooden toothpick to scrape away any excess paste solder that squeezes out beyond the teardrop to keep the teardrop level, slide a support underneath as needed.
Slide a small piece of 24-gauge scrap sheet metal under the tail of the teardrop making sure it's not under the soldered seam (see second photo) then use a butane torch head on a butane canister to heat each earring until the solder flows, and allow the pieces to cool before continuing.
Press the teardrop in place on the disc on a soldering surface, aligning the center marks, and use a wooden toothpick to scrape away any excess paste solder that squeezes out beyond the teardrop to keep the teardrop level, slide a support underneath as needed.
Slide a small piece of 24-gauge scrap sheet metal under the tail of the teardrop making sure it's not under the soldered seam (see second photo) then use a butane torch head on a butane canister to heat each earring until the solder flows, and allow the pieces to cool before continuing.
Step 11
File and sand away all excess sheet metal inside the teardrop.
Step 12
Steps 10-13 are optional steps for adding bezel set stones.
The stones used here and set in hand-made bezels are 12x8mm using pre-made bezel cups as shown in Step 4 is a real time saver.
The stones used here and set in hand-made bezels are 12x8mm using pre-made bezel cups as shown in Step 4 is a real time saver.
Step 13
Cut trim, file, and refine the bezels.
Step 14
Place a small amount of easy paste solder inside the teardrop frame at the arrows.
Push the bezel into the solder, pressing it tightly against the teardrop, and to keep the earring level, place a small scrap of 24-gauge sheet metal under the tail of the teardrop being careful to avoid the soldered seam.
Use a butane torch head attached to a butane canister to heat each earring until the solder flows, then let the pieces cool completely before continuing.
Push the bezel into the solder, pressing it tightly against the teardrop, and to keep the earring level, place a small scrap of 24-gauge sheet metal under the tail of the teardrop being careful to avoid the soldered seam.
Use a butane torch head attached to a butane canister to heat each earring until the solder flows, then let the pieces cool completely before continuing.
Step 15
The join between the bezel and the teardrop is not very strong. To solve this problem and add interest to the back of the earrings, cut two 1⁄4" discs from scrap 24 gauge sheet.
Keep a variety of small metal content stamped discs on hand to save time.
Nestle each earring right side down in pumice inside a pumice pan, then place a small amount of easy paste solder on the back of each disc press a small disc over the seam between the bezel and the teardrop on each earring, heat each with a butane torch head on a butane canister until the solder flows, and allow the pieces to cool before continuing.
Keep a variety of small metal content stamped discs on hand to save time.
Nestle each earring right side down in pumice inside a pumice pan, then place a small amount of easy paste solder on the back of each disc press a small disc over the seam between the bezel and the teardrop on each earring, heat each with a butane torch head on a butane canister until the solder flows, and allow the pieces to cool before continuing.
Step 16
Pickle the earrings.
Neutralize them in baking soda water after removing from the pickle if using Sparex pickle rinse and dry the earrings before continuing.
Neutralize them in baking soda water after removing from the pickle if using Sparex pickle rinse and dry the earrings before continuing.
Step 17
Use files and sanding pads to clean and refine the edges of the earring and smooth and refine the upper teardrop seam.
Step 18
Trim the excess teardrop wire tail.
Round the pointed end, removing only a little at a time, until the drop will easily swing from the earring finding.
Use sanding pads to clean and refine area.
Round the pointed end, removing only a little at a time, until the drop will easily swing from the earring finding.
Use sanding pads to clean and refine area.
Step 19
As with many pieces, adding just a little dimension makes a big difference.
The photo shows one flat earring and one earring shaped using a nylon bracelet bending pliers to softly curve the disc portion of each earring.
The photo shows one flat earring and one earring shaped using a nylon bracelet bending pliers to softly curve the disc portion of each earring.
Step 20
Tumble the earrings for several hours to bring up a nice shine.
Step 21
Patina the pendant to highlight the details.
Since removing patina from the raised areas imparts satin finish to the surface of the metal, tumble again for 20 to 30 minutes to bring back the shine without removing the patina.
Since removing patina from the raised areas imparts satin finish to the surface of the metal, tumble again for 20 to 30 minutes to bring back the shine without removing the patina.
Step 22
Set the stones.
The Basic Bezel Wire Tutorial link in Step 10 also includes stone setting.
The Basic Bezel Wire Tutorial link in Step 10 also includes stone setting.
Step 23
Add earring findings.
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Judy Larson
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