Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet, Contemporary Wire Jewelry. Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder. The bangle is a classic for a reason.
Classic Bangle Bracelet
by Susan LeGuyader
  • Category: Contemporary
  • Technique(s): Texturing, Butane Torch Techniques
  • Skill Level: Beginner
The bangle is a classic for a reason. The bangle has been worn for over 40,000 years. Yes, you read that right. I looked it up. Round or oval, textured or not, matte finish or high gloss. The opportunities are endless. Below is the starting point, I can't wait to see what you do.

Materials

4mm square sterling wire
  • Lesson Quantity: 8.00 inches
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
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Tools

Basic Soldering Kit
G15-4
  • G15-4
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $58.95
  • Gold Club Price: $44.21
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Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces
CLN-584.00
  • CLN-584.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $29.95
  • Gold Club Price: $22.46
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Sparex Number 2 Pickling Compound
SOL-802.10
  • SOL-802.10
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $5.95
  • Gold Club Price: $4.46
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Solderite Soldering Board 6 Inch by 12 Inch Soft
SOL-421.20
  • SOL-421.20
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $21.95
  • Gold Club Price: $16.46
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Sheet Solder Variety Pack
SOL-860.90
  • SOL-860.90
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $15.95
  • Gold Club Price: $11.96
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Copper Tongs, Curved, 8-1/2 Inches
TWZ-920.02
  • TWZ-920.02
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $6.95
  • Gold Club Price: $5.21
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Bench Pin, 5-1/4 Inches by 2-1/4 Inches
BPN-103.02
  • BPN-103.02
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $2.95
  • Gold Club Price: $2.21
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4 Inch Saw Frame
SAW-344.00
  • SAW-344.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $12.95
  • Gold Club Price: $9.71
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4/0 Relentless Sawblade - Sold by the Dozen
SAW-400.03D
  • SAW-400.03D
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $3.25
  • Gold Club Price: $2.44
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Medium Rawhide Hammer 1 1/4 inch - Pack of 1
G3-7
  • G3-7
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.95
  • Gold Club Price: $18.71
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7 Piece Mini TruStrike Hammer Set with Stand
HAM-520.70
  • HAM-520.70
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $140.54
  • Gold Club Price: $105.40
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Chasing Hammer - Flat Faced with Polished Wooden Handle - Pack of 1
G3-13
  • G3-13
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $11.97
  • Gold Club Price: $8.98
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Steel Bracelet Mandrels - Round
MAN-216.00
  • MAN-216.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $37.97
  • Gold Club Price: $28.48
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GROBET FILE - BARRETTE CUT 4, 6"
FIL-31.031
  • FIL-31.031
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $35.10
  • Gold Club Price: $26.33
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Multi Angle Cutting Jig
VIS-512.00
  • VIS-512.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $84.95
  • Gold Club Price: $63.71
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Chain Nose Wire Plier
G2-508
  • G2-508
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $32.95
  • Gold Club Price: $24.71
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Round Nose Wire Pliers
G2-507
  • G2-507
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $32.95
  • Gold Club Price: $24.71
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Foredom M.TX-TXR Hang-Up Permanent Magnet Motor with TRX Speed Control
G22-M.TX-TXR
  • G22-M.TX-TXR
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $372.37
  • Gold Club Price: $279.28
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Variable Speed Rotary Tool with Flexible Shaft
G26-51
  • G26-51
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $49.97
  • Gold Club Price: $37.48
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Instructions
Step 1
I am using 4mm square sterling silver wire but am milling it down to what I want. You can buy wire for bangles in round, rectangle, square, domed, patterned... you name it. When you pick a gauge for the wire, consider the durability and wearability of the metal. For instance, 20 gauge wire would be far too thin by itself, but a stack of them might work. I like a heavy bangle and a stack, so I can hear the music as they move together.
Step 2
To start this project, decide on what size of bangle you are going to be making. Typically, they are sized in small, 7"; medium, 7 ½" and large, 8". If you are going to do the math, measure the diameter of the bracelet, add the thickness of the metal and times by pi (3.14).
Before you make your cut, use a miter jig to true up the end. This will help ensure an accurate cut for better soldering success. If you do not have a miter jig, then use a file and the side of your bench pin to file the end of the wire.
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Step 3
Use your bench pin and a jeweler's saw, with the appropriate sized saw blade, and cut your metal. Cut a bit generously, maybe 1mm extra, to allow for filing. If your wire is not the right gauge, use your rolling mill to thin the metal down.
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Step 4
Now is the point to add texture, there are so many options for texture. Ball peen hammers, riveting hammers, texture plates... whatever you can imagine. For this bangle, I used a riveting hammer get this look. Double check the length, as texturing can and will change the width and length of the metal. After you confirm that your length is correct, pop each end into the miter jig again and make sure that the texturing has not moved the ends of the metal.
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Step 5
Anneal the metal. This will make the forming and alignment of the bracelet much easier for the next step. Annealing the metal is heating it up to glow a dull red, then quenching. This will soften the metal and make it bendy.
Step 6
Before soldering, you do not have to have the bracelet in the round, just bring the ends together until they touch and form a flush butt joint.
If the ends do not align tightly, no light shining through the joint, pop in the miter jig and true up your ends again. Feel the edges for burrs and use a hand file very gently to remove them.
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Step 7
Time to solder! You can brace your bracelet in a third hand with the solder underneath or you can lay it flat, with the solder under the seam... whichever works best for you. Exhaust fan, safety glasses and mask! Safety is so important. Flux. For big metal pieces I use Handy Flux, which contains fluoride and is very bad for you, use your safety mask! Add a big piece of hard solder, but not too much. My suggestion is to use the biggest, hottest torch flame you can make. A small butane torch will not heat the metal sufficiently to do the job. I used a Smith Acetylene/Air torch for this project. A Smith Little Torch would work as well.
Pickle and rinse.
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Step 8
Slide bracelet on the bracelet mandrel and use a rawhide or nylon mallet and form the round into the round shape of a bracelet. Make sure you take it off and reverse it and round again. On a bench block, check for to make sure it is flat, hammer flat if it is not.

Step 9
Use a half round file and file the seam. File until you have a seamless joint. File the side seams as well. When it comes to the top of the bracelet with the texture. File minimally on top.
Then if you need to adjust the texture, slide it back on the mandrel and texture JUST enough to balance it out.
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Step 10
On your flex shaft, these sanding barrels are amazing for bracelets. Please wear your particulate mask while sanding. Silver dust up your nose or down your lungs is not good for you. Polishing the bangles is an option. There are many ways to get the results you want. Polishing machine, tumbler, polishing pads, buffs and polishing compounds. I like to use polishing papers and pro polish pads.



Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle
Step 11
There you go. The start of something beautiful.
Susan LeGuyader's Classic Bangle Bracelet - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Texturing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, classic bangle