Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings, Metalwork. Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder. Besides challenging myself to use bezelled gemstone strands in a different manner in the new year, I also wanted to use more gold-filled accents in my work.

Checkerboard Faceted Earrings

by Judy Larson
  • Category: Metalwork
  • Technique(s): Dapping, Filing / Finishing, Butane Torch Techniques
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
Besides challenging myself to use bezelled gemstone strands in a different manner in the new year, I also wanted to use more gold-filled accents in my work. The marriage of gold and silver is always beautiful. Adding domed gold-filled discs to the mix will expand your skills. New ways to make and use leaves are always fun.And don't the checkerboard cut emeralds look just yummy?! I just love this new way to use them

Materials

24 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches
H19-24SM6
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
  • Price: $48.95
  • Gold Club Price: $36.71
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24 Gauge Half Hard Double Clad Gold Filled Sheet - 4 Inches
H4-24DCS4
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
  • Price: $71.78
  • Gold Club Price: $53.83
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gold filled ball stud earrings
  • Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
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Tools

Aqui Flux, 1/2 Pint Spray Bottle
SOL-932.03
  • SOL-932.03
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $6.95
  • Gold Club Price: $5.21
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Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.15
  • SOL-822.15
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $18.95
  • Gold Club Price: $14.21
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Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.10
  • SOL-822.10
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $16.95
  • Gold Club Price: $12.71
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8 Punch Dapping Set
DAP-708.00
  • DAP-708.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $48.97
  • Gold Club Price: $36.73
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Craft glue stick
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Xuron Sheer - Non Serrated
SHR-691.81
  • SHR-691.81
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.95
  • Gold Club Price: $18.71
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chisels
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Steel and Rubber Bench Block 4x4 Inches
G17-44
  • G17-44
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $29.95
  • Gold Club Price: $22.46
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Carbide Scribe, 5-1/4 Inches
SCB-535.00
  • SCB-535.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Basic Soldering Kit
G15-4
  • G15-4
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $58.95
  • Gold Club Price: $44.21
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7 Annealing Pan with Pumice
SOL-520.00
  • SOL-520.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $36.97
  • Gold Club Price: $27.73
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Instructions
Step 1
Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions for the space you are working in as well as all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies you will be using to complete the project.

Choose two faceted stones similar in size and shape. Carefully remove the metal strip encasing the stones.Follow the directions in Bezelled Strands Reimagined to make bezels that fit the stones.I was lucky enough to find three that were similar in shape and size so could choose a more matched pair.The other can be saved for a pendant or bracelet/cuff.The stones chosen here are approximately 11x 15mm.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, remove existing bezel wire
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, find matching stones
Step 2
Cut four1/8" discs and two 3/16" discs from 24 gauge gold-filled sheet metal.
Step 3
Dome the discs. When all the parts are dry fit the domed size or diameter can be slightly changed if needed.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, dap the disks
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, dome the disks
Step 4
Print six leaves-these leaves are just a hair over ½" (approximately 14mm) long. Use stick glue to adhere the leaves to 24 gauge Argentium sheet metal.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, leaf stencil
Step 5
Use Lindstrom shears or a saw to cut the leaves out.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, cut out leaves from metal
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, cut out leaves from metal
Step 6
Use an ultra-fine point retractable Sharpie to draw a line on each leaf where indicated on the leaf template. Place leaves on a bench block. Stamp the line on each leaf using a 3/8" chisel, being careful to not cut through the metal.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, chisel a line in the metal leaves
Step 7
Using an ultra-fine point Sharpie, draw a frame around the edge of each leaf as shown. Staying outside the frame line, use a scribe to scratch lines around the outside of each leaf.
Pro Tip: Anneal the leaves first if deeper scribe lines are desired.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, texture the metal leaves
Step 8
Use a sanding sponge to soften and refine the edges of each leaf.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, sand to smooth the edges of the metal
Step 9
Place a leaf face down in the 1-3/8" (about 36mm) wide well of a wood dapping block. Using a dapping punch that fits the depression, form each leaf.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, dome the leaves
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, dap the leaves
Step 10
Place a piece of 320 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Run the back of each leaf over the sandpaper until there is a flat area on each end, which is needed for a good solder connection.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, sand the leaves connection points
Step 11
Check the fit of all the parts. Make any adjustments needed. Will five domed gold embellishments look better for you than three?
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, check the fit of all the parts of the earrings
Step 12
Arrange the parts on a piece of paper. Draw around the assembly, leaving an edge so adjustments can be made later when setting the parts on the backplate before soldering. Add a little bump-out at the center top for adding a jump ring for attaching to the earring finding. Cut the backplate template out.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, arrange the elements of the earrings
Step 13
Place the backplate template on 24 gauge sheet metal and draw around it with an ultra-fine point Sharpie. Repeat to make two.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, make the backplates
Step 14
Use a saw or Lindstrom shears to cut the backplates out. If shears are used, flatten the piece before continuing.

Optional: Texture the back of each piece-see the back on step 21 and 22. This really is not necessary, but I like the added dimension and originality it gives a piece. If this is done, the pieces must be annealed and flattened.
Step 15
Using medium paste solder, add the bezel to the backplate first. Be judicious in the use of paste solder. I used way too much on the bezels. Place medium paste solder on the flat parts at both ends of two leaves. Position them on the backplate. Use a caliper to help with the positioning to make sure that both earrings will be similar in width.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, attache the bezel to the backplate
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, solder pieces in place
Step 16
Place medium paste solder on the flat part at the tip of the center leaf. Since the center leaf will cover the two side leaves at the top, medium paste solder is placed on the flat section at the top as well as down the leaf sides a bit-first photo.

Place medium paste solder inside the center of the larger domed gold disc-second photo. Center the disc on the center leaf. Make sure it also touches the bezel. Repeat the process with the smaller domed discs.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, place solder on the backplate
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, place solder on the backplate
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, place solder on the backplate
Step 17
Determine where the center top of the bezel is. Place a dot of medium paste solder at that point. Press a 22 gauge 2mm ID jump ring in the solder. Push the jump ring towards the bezel until the two touch.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, center a jump ring for the bail
Step 18
Paste solder can bubble, moving parts around. It is best not to move the flame of a torch over the piece until the flame and smoke from the paste solder has dissipated to help prevent this. Stay about a finger width away from the piece to start. When the smoke and flame are gone, move in slowly. Keep a solder pick in your dominant hand to nudge things back into place, if needed

It is necessary to flux the piece to protect the gold. After a couple passes around the piece before it heats up so much that the paste solder smokes and flames, spritz the piece with flux. The flux turns white so you can tell where you may need a second spritz to protect the gold. When the flux turns clear, solder flow is not far behind.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, arrange all elements to solder
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, heat the flux
Step 19
The pieces will probably look terrible after the solder flows. Not to worry. Pop them in pickle for silver-no need to use super pickle. Immediately upon removal from the pickle, put the pieces in baking soda water to neutralize the pickle. Rinse and dry the pieces. They will look great.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, heat till solder flows
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, pickle the pieces
Step 20
Trim excess metal with a saw or shears. Refine edges with files and sanding pads. Use a 1.8mm hole punch to make hole inside the jump ring. The hole punch may scratch/dent the bezel as the jump ring is so close to it.

Finger-press the bezel away from the ring a bit to avoid this. If the thickness of the ring on the 24 gauge backing is too thick for the small hanging loop on the ball stud, file the backing at the top of the ring until the earring drop will swing freely from the finding.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, trim excess metal
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, press the bail away a bit
Step 21
Optional: Add a little something expected to the back of the earrings. Smaller hearts should be cut with a saw. How about adding cute gold-filled lovebirds (j1-82) to the back of the earrings? There are so many options available.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, add something to the back
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, add something to the back
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, add something to the back
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, add something to the back
Step 22
Nestle the earrings in pumice in a pumice pan. Use easy paste solder to attach embellishments to the back of the earrings, following soldering directions in Step 18. To protect any gold-filled embellishments, use flux as in Step 18.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, solder on back elements
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, solder on back elements
Step 23
The pieces will probably look terrible after the solder flows. Not to worry. Pop them in pickle for silver-no need to use super pickle. Immediately upon removal from the pickle, put the pieces in baking soda water to neutralize the pickle. Rinse and dry the pieces. They will look great.
Step 24
Tumble the pieces for several hours to bring up a nice shine.
Step 25
Gold embellishments will pop if patina is added to the silver. To highlight the design of the leaves, remove excess patina using 0000 steel wool or extra fine sanding pads. The scratched lines will be very subtle after removing the patina.
Step 26
Tumble the earrings for 20 to 30 minutes to bring back the shine.
Step 27
Set the stones.
Step 28
Attach earring findings-6mm gold-filled ball studs are used here. These earrings are not heavy, but my personal preference is to use gold-filled jumbo (9.5mm) ear nuts with the studs as I think the earrings hang better using them.
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, attach post earring findings
Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, add ear nuts