Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring, Contemporary Wire Jewelry. Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry. In this tutorial you will learn multiple techniques which you can incorporate in your own designs as well.
Captured Gemstone Ring
by Erika Pal
  • Category: Contemporary
  • Technique(s): Wrapping
  • Skill Level: Beginner
In this tutorial you will learn multiple techniques which you can incorporate in your own designs as well.

Materials

18 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire
H11-18H
  • Lesson Quantity: 6.00 inches
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $0.81
  • Gold Club Price: $0.61
Add to Bag
22 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire
H11-22H
  • Lesson Quantity: 12.00 inches
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $0.33
  • Gold Club Price: $0.25
Add to Bag
Matte Onyx 10mm Round Cabochon - Pack of 2
E8-20H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $4.67
  • Gold Club Price: $3.50
Add to Bag
Smoky Quartz 10mm Round Cabochon - Pack of 2
E8-17H
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $6.67
  • Gold Club Price: $5.00
Add to Bag
Add All Items to Cart

Tools

WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5
G15-20
  • G15-20
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $170.72
  • Gold Club Price: $128.04
Add to Bag
Add All Items to Cart
Instructions
Step 1
Materials and tools for this project are shown on this picture. I will use 17ga (1.25 mm) and 22ga (0.6 mm) wires.
This stone is 12 mm. For your learning I recommend soft copper wire, however once you learn the technique, I recommend you to use half hard 22ga (0.6 mm) wire for the prong setting.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 2
Once the length of your ring band has been measured, we have to cut a base wire of the 17ga (1.25 mm) wire, which must be 3 cm longer than the length of your ring band. For example: I will make a ring size 8 (US size), which has a 6cm long ring band. My base wire should be 6+3 cm long, 9 cm exactly.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 3
Hold the right end of your base wire tight within the bottom of the round nose pliers, as shown on this picture.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 4
Bend the base wire tightly around one side of the round nose pliers, as shown here, to make a loop with this wire end.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 5
This is the result we must get.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 6
At the point where the loop ends, hold the wire tight within the chain nose pliers and bend it slightly to make it straight.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 7
This is the result we must get.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 8
Position the loop over the ring mandrel, over the size you wish to make.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 9
Hold the loop tight between your fingers and the mandrel, then bend the wire end all around the mandrel, as shown here.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 10
Separate the wire from the mandrel. This is the result we must get.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 11
On the right side of the loop, at the point where the wire end meets with this loop, hold it tight within the chain nose pliers and bend it 90 degrees upwards.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 12
Now bend this short wire end all around the top of the loop, as shown on this picture.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 13
If the wire end is longer than the top of the loop, cut off the extra end of it.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 14
With the help of the chain nose pliers, bend the wire end close to the loop, to follow the same path.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 15
Cut a 12 inches (30 cm) long wire of the 22ga (0.6 mm) wire. Position the initial end of this wire around both base wires on the right side of the loop, then wrap it 6 times around the top of the loop, as tight as you can.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 16
Measure 1cm on the wire end. At this point bend it 90 degrees upwards, with the help of the chain nose pliers.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 17
Now bend the wire end completely to the left side direction, as shown here.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 18
Pressure the bent part with the chain nose pliers until it is completely closed.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 19
Move the wire end slightly backwards so you can insert it into the loop, to take it from the back to the front, as shown here.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 20
Pull the wire end completely to the front through the loop and reposition it to its place to finish the prong.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 21
Now wrap it 3 times around both wires at the top of the loop, as tight as you can.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 22
Repeat the same steps to make a second prong.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 23
Again, take the wire from the back to the front, pulling it through the loop, then wrap it another 3 times around both wires of the loop.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 24
Now take the wire from the back to the front, pulling it through the loop, then position it close to the right side of the loop.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 25
Move the prongs in a way that they are positioned upwards and they are parallel, as shown on this picture.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 26
Turn the ring upside down, to repeat exactly the same steps on the other side of the loop as well. Wrap the wire 6 times around the loop, as tight as you can.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 27
This time we will make 1.1cm long prongs as we have only one base wire in the loop. Measure 1.1 cm on the wire end, then bend it 90 degrees downwards.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 28
Follow the same bending steps to complete this prong.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 29
Take the wire end from the back to the front, pulling it through the loop, as shown here.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 30
Wrap the wire 3 times around the loop, then make a second prong on this side of the loop.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 31
Again, take the wire from the back to the front, then wrap it 5 times around the loop, as shown here.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 32
Leave a very short end on this wire, cut off the extra end of it.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 33
With the help of the chain nose pliers bend this short wire end around the loop, then pressure it until it is completely closed.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 34
Now move these 2 prongs closer until they are parallel.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 35
Position your cabochon over the center of the ring, over the loop.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 36
Take the 2 lower prongs, bend them upwards, bending them tightly over the stone.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 37
Repeat the same step with the other 2 prongs as well, bending them tightly downwards over the stone.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 38
With the help of the chain nose pliers, we have to bend each prong slightly outwards, as shown here and on the next 2 pictures. Make sure that the prongs remain over the stone after bending them.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 39
This is the same result from the right side view.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 40
Now pressure each prong end over the stone, to make sure they are positioned tightly over the stone surface.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 41
Repeat the same step with every single prong.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring
Step 42
Your beautiful ring is ready.
Erika Pal's Captured Gemstone Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wire captured gemstone ring