Alaskan Range Necklace
- Category: Contemporary
- Technique(s): Chain Making, Making Loops, Texturing, Twisting
- Skill Level: Intermediate
As a person who traveled a lot in their youth, I've retained a great admiration for the many aspects that a mountain and its range offers to the eye. Sunsets are more glorious, the layers of colors offer an impressive feast for the eyes, and inspiration is often forever ingrained on a person by these monumental landscapes. In the Alaskan Range tutorial, you will find a gentle, contemporary take on an abstract impression of an image captured by a well-seasoned traveler.
Materials
flat copper wire
- Lesson Quantity: 6.00 inches
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
18 Gauge Square Half Hard Copper Wire
H11-18SQH
- Lesson Quantity: 4.00 inches
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
- Price: $1.42
- Gold Club Price: $1.07
16 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire
H11-16H
- Lesson Quantity: 3.00 inches
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
- Price: $1.26
- Gold Club Price: $0.94
20 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire
H11-20H
- Lesson Quantity: 3.00 feet
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
- Price: $2.08
- Gold Club Price: $1.56
Hematite 4mm Round Beads - 8 Inch Strand
A1-793
- Lesson Quantity: 8.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $5.25
- Gold Club Price: $3.94
Dragon Blood Jasper 4mm Round Beads - 8 Inch Strand
A1-141
- Lesson Quantity: 8.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $6.30
- Gold Club Price: $4.73
4mm amazonite beads
- Lesson Quantity: 8.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 8.00 each
4mm round lapis beads
- Lesson Quantity: 8.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 8.00 each
Tools
6 Step Barrel Plier - Pack of 1
G2-503
- G2-503
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $18.95
- Gold Club Price: $14.21
Round Nose Wire Pliers
G2-507
- G2-507
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
Chain Nose Wire Pliers
G2-508
- G2-508
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
C.H.P Milano Angled Flush Cutter, 5-1/4 Inches
PLR-489.00
- PLR-489.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $21.95
- Gold Club Price: $16.46
Premium Steel Bench Block 2 1/2 X 2 1/2
G17-9
- G17-9
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $15.97
- Gold Club Price: $11.98
Chasing Hammer with Wooden Handle, 1 1/8 Inch Face
G3-27
- G3-27
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $13.95
- Gold Club Price: $10.46
GROBET FILE - BARRETTE CUT 2, 6"
FIL-31.030
- FIL-31.030
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $31.20
- Gold Club Price: $23.40
Gold Filled Jump Rings Open (.030) 20ga. (OD) 5mm (ID) 3.45mm - Pack of 10
J11-191
- J11-191
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $5.02
- Gold Club Price: $3.77
Instructions
Step 1
Begin with the stepped mandrel pliers and 6 inch piece of flat wire. You want to make zigzag/S-curve shapes with this piece.
Using the smallest peg on the mandrel pliers, make a V fold in the center of the flat wire.
Measuring 1 inch from one side of the center V, make another V fold in the opposite direction.
From the 2nd fold, make another V fold at ½ inch in the opposite direction.
Using the smallest peg on the mandrel pliers, make a V fold in the center of the flat wire.
Measuring 1 inch from one side of the center V, make another V fold in the opposite direction.
From the 2nd fold, make another V fold at ½ inch in the opposite direction.
Step 2
Flip the piece over and continue with the un-bent side.
From the center V, make another V fold ¾ of an inch in the opposite direction of the center V fold.
From the 2nd fold on this side, make another V fold ½ inch in the opposite direction
From the center V, make another V fold ¾ of an inch in the opposite direction of the center V fold.
From the 2nd fold on this side, make another V fold ½ inch in the opposite direction
Step 3
Switch to your hammer & steel block.
Use the flat side of the hammer to squash the V folds and work harden the copper. Flip the piece over and make sure to do the corners where the metal folded.
Using the ball peen, create texture on one side of the zigzag shape, again making sure to do the corners where the metal was folded.
*Note: you are going to trim off the long, unfinished ends from here, so you only need to hammer ½ inch past the last bends you made on each side.
Use the flat side of the hammer to squash the V folds and work harden the copper. Flip the piece over and make sure to do the corners where the metal folded.
Using the ball peen, create texture on one side of the zigzag shape, again making sure to do the corners where the metal was folded.
*Note: you are going to trim off the long, unfinished ends from here, so you only need to hammer ½ inch past the last bends you made on each side.
Step 4
Mark ½ inch beyond the last bends you made, where you just added texture. Trim the excess.
Step 5
Using the stepped mandrel pliers:
Curl the cut ends toward the main body of the centerpiece to make loops.
Use your chain nose pliers to make sure the loop is fully closed.
Use the file on all edges of the flat W shape. You want to clear out any edges that may be sharp or snag clothing.
Curl the cut ends toward the main body of the centerpiece to make loops.
Use your chain nose pliers to make sure the loop is fully closed.
Use the file on all edges of the flat W shape. You want to clear out any edges that may be sharp or snag clothing.
Step 6
Switch to the 4 inch piece of 18 gauge square wire.
Mark the center
Use your flat chain nose pliers to make a V in the wire from the center.
Mark ¾ inch from the center of the V on both sides.
Use your flat chain nose pliers to make two more Vs in the wire.
*Note: use the flat chain nose pliers on both sides of each V so that the point is not rounded.
Mark the center
Use your flat chain nose pliers to make a V in the wire from the center.
Mark ¾ inch from the center of the V on both sides.
Use your flat chain nose pliers to make two more Vs in the wire.
*Note: use the flat chain nose pliers on both sides of each V so that the point is not rounded.
Step 7
Come back to your steel block and chasing hammer.
Using the ball peen, gently add texture to the square wire shape. You don't need to flatten this wire, just add texture and some work-hardening.
*Note: you are going to be trimming this wire, so you only need to texture to the middle of the open prong ends.
Using the ball peen, gently add texture to the square wire shape. You don't need to flatten this wire, just add texture and some work-hardening.
*Note: you are going to be trimming this wire, so you only need to texture to the middle of the open prong ends.
Step 8
Place the hammered square wire over the top of the flat wire W, with the hammered sides toward you. The flat wire W should have the end loops facing up and and away from you.
Use your flat chain nose pliers to adjust how the square wire fits over the flat wire. You want the square wire to fit flush over the loops of the flat wire.
Mark the square wire where the top of the loops are on the flat wire.
Trim the square wire ends ¼ of an inch outside of your marks.
Use the smallest peg on the stepped mandrel pliers, at the very end of the cut square wire ends to curl the wire into a loop.
*Note: make any needed adjustments to the loops and shape of the square wire so that it sits flush on top of the flat wire shape.
Use your flat chain nose pliers to adjust how the square wire fits over the flat wire. You want the square wire to fit flush over the loops of the flat wire.
Mark the square wire where the top of the loops are on the flat wire.
Trim the square wire ends ¼ of an inch outside of your marks.
Use the smallest peg on the stepped mandrel pliers, at the very end of the cut square wire ends to curl the wire into a loop.
*Note: make any needed adjustments to the loops and shape of the square wire so that it sits flush on top of the flat wire shape.
Step 9
Switch to your 22 gauge wire and beads.
*Note: I leave my 22 gauge on the spool when I do this step.
Add your first bead to the spool wire.
Using your round nose pliers, grip the wire about 1 inch from the end.
Wrap the open end of the wire around the pliers, making a loop.
Wrap the open end of the wire around the base wire 2-3 times.
Trim & Tuck
*Note: I leave my 22 gauge on the spool when I do this step.
Add your first bead to the spool wire.
Using your round nose pliers, grip the wire about 1 inch from the end.
Wrap the open end of the wire around the pliers, making a loop.
Wrap the open end of the wire around the base wire 2-3 times.
Trim & Tuck
Step 10
Slide your loaded bead to the loop end.
Using the round nose pliers, grasp the wire right next to the bead about ¼ inch into the plier tip and bend slightly.
Move the pliers to the bent section at the same depth on the pliers and wrap the spool end of the wire around the stem wire next to the bead 2-3 times
Trim and tuck.
Using the round nose pliers, grasp the wire right next to the bead about ¼ inch into the plier tip and bend slightly.
Move the pliers to the bent section at the same depth on the pliers and wrap the spool end of the wire around the stem wire next to the bead 2-3 times
Trim and tuck.
Step 11
Continue this process until you have created
Two chains of the dark themed beads, approximately 1.5 inches long (L-s-L).
One chain of the light themed beads, approximately 2.5 inches long (L-s-L-s-L)
IMPORTANT NOTES
A. If you're working from a spool, always add your bead to the wire first.
B. When chain building, once you have added your bead and created the 1st loop, ADD THE
PREVIOUSLY MADE CHAIN LINK to the open end before closing the 1st loop off! Otherwise, you'll have to cut that loop off and begin again or connect
the chain links with a jump ring.
Two chains of the dark themed beads, approximately 1.5 inches long (L-s-L).
One chain of the light themed beads, approximately 2.5 inches long (L-s-L-s-L)
IMPORTANT NOTES
A. If you're working from a spool, always add your bead to the wire first.
B. When chain building, once you have added your bead and created the 1st loop, ADD THE
PREVIOUSLY MADE CHAIN LINK to the open end before closing the 1st loop off! Otherwise, you'll have to cut that loop off and begin again or connect
the chain links with a jump ring.
Step 12
Create your linking elements
optional step if you're using jump ring*
Using a 4 inch piece of 16 gauge wire and your stepped mandrel pliers, create 2 S-hooks with one loop from the 2nd smallest peg and one loop from the
largest peg.
Using a 3 inch piece of 18 gauge wire, create 2 S-hooks with the two smallest pegs of the pliers.
Hammer to work harden
optional step if you're using jump ring*
Using a 4 inch piece of 16 gauge wire and your stepped mandrel pliers, create 2 S-hooks with one loop from the 2nd smallest peg and one loop from the
largest peg.
Using a 3 inch piece of 18 gauge wire, create 2 S-hooks with the two smallest pegs of the pliers.
Hammer to work harden
Step 13
Lay out all your pieces together. Time to assemble your necklace centerpiece!.
Add the light colored, 2.5 inch length chain to the small side of the 18 gauge S-hooks, one on either side.
Add the dark colored, 1.5 inch length chains to the small sides of the large S-hooks, one chain per hook.
Open the large side of the large S-hooks
Add one side of the light chain
Stack the square wire on top of the flat wire and
Add to the open ring
Close the ring
Repeat this with the other side of the centerpieces.
Add the light colored, 2.5 inch length chain to the small side of the 18 gauge S-hooks, one on either side.
Add the dark colored, 1.5 inch length chains to the small sides of the large S-hooks, one chain per hook.
Open the large side of the large S-hooks
Add one side of the light chain
Stack the square wire on top of the flat wire and
Add to the open ring
Close the ring
Repeat this with the other side of the centerpieces.
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