Soldering on Copper

by Judy Larson
Working with copper is an economical way to start your journey in metalsmithing. It's also a beautiful and warm metal. Here are some really useful tips on soldering copper, whether you're just a beginner, or already working with a torch.
Soldering on copper presents unique challenges, especially for the beginner.

There are so many things to remember and the only way to get better at it is with practice.
To make it a little easier to start, here are a few tips.

Clean thoroughly.
Make sure the pieces you'll solder are very clean. Avoid touching the surfaces with your fingers.

Choose the right solder.
Use solder paste for copper or copper solder wire both are self-fluxing. Paste solder is often easier to work with.

Avoid copper solder wire for hammered joins.
It's too brittle and can split at the seam if hammered, so don't use it for rings or parts that need shaping.

Understand solder types.
Paste solder comes in soft, medium, and hard, referring to the temperature at which it flows.

Always start with hard solder (highest flow temp).

Move to medium, then soft as you add more parts.

Ventilation matters.
Work in a well-ventilated area. Flux burning gives off light smoke avoid breathing it in.

Experiment with solder amount.
Beginners often use too much solder. Try using what you think is right even a little extra to see how it behaves and learn how it flows.
Experiment with your Solder:

To see how your chosen solder works on different thicknesses of metal, I suggest cutting out 1″ squares of 18, 20, 22 and 24 gauge copper sheet.

Place the same amount of paste solder in the center of each square.
Step 1: . Heat the metal surrounding the solder.

You can then answer these questions:

  • How long does it take for the solder to flow?
  • What happens if I continue to heat the square?
  • What happens to the solder?
  • How does the solder react to my torch?
  • How far does the solder flow or spread?
  • Step 2. You can then cut more squares and a small circle to place in the center of each.

    Place the same amount of solder you used before in the center of each square.
    Step 3. Place the circle on top. Heat the area of the square surrounding the circle.

    When the solder flows, the circle will "settle" onto the square and you will see a shiny flow line around the edge of the circle.

    You can then answer the same questions as above.

  • Remember, the flame of your torch does not make the solder flow, the heat of the surrounding metal is what makes the solder melt/flow. So, heat the area surrounding the place you need to make a solder join. Do not just zero in on the section needing to be soldered.

  • Solder follows or is pulled to the heat of the torch. That is why you keep the torch moving. It is also why solder is usually placed on the inside of a seam rather than the outside

  • If the copper stops flowing, you have heated the piece too long.

  • There is no solder that will fill gaps, so make sure that the pieces you are soldering together are flush to each other.
  • Pro Tip: Start with smaller pieces to solder together. You can probably use your micro torch on them. The larger the piece and the thicker the metal, the larger the flame you need will be.
    Using Two Torches:

    If your project is too large (over 1 1/2″) or too thick and you are using a butane micro torch, the torch cannot heat the metal up enough all over to "melt" the solder to a flowing stage.

    Using two butane micro torches at the same time can help, one used on top of the project and one from underneath.

    A better option would be a large flame torch.
    If you cannot get your piece hot enough to make the solder flow, you need a larger torch.

    A butane torch burns hottest after filling, so I fill mine before I start a project and sometimes during the project as well.
    Judy Larson's Soldering on Copper - , Metalwork, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, , Torch
    Judy Larson's Soldering on Copper - , Metalwork, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, , Torch
    Finally:

    Remove the torch right away.
    As soon as you see the solder flow, pull the flame away. Leaving the heat on too long can burn off the solder and leave no connection.

    Expect a dark silver finish.
    Copper-bearing solder doesn't look truly copper it appears as a darkened silver that blends nicely once the piece is patinated.

    If overheated, it turns a brighter silver.

    If too much solder is used, it may spread away from the seam, leaving gray areas around it.

    Minimize excess solder.
    Removing extra solder is ideal, but not always possible. When reusing pickle, the copper content can coat the soldered areas, helping them blend

    especially after applying liver of sulfur (LOS) for patina.

    Tip: Use less solder than you think you need and remove heat immediately once it flows for the cleanest, most natural result.
    Here's an example of Copper Paste Solder:
    Judy Larson's Soldering on Copper - , Metalwork, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, , solder paste

    Materials

    Copper Sheet
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    Copper Blanks
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    Tools

    Basic Soldering Kit
    G15-4
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    Butane Gas Jewelers Torch
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    Handy Flame Butane Torch
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    Copper Solder Paste, 1/2 ozt, Soft
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    Aqui Flux, 1/2 Pint Spray Bottle
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    Ceramic Soldering Board 6in
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    Deluxe Titanium Soldering Pick, Blue Handled, 6-1/2 Inches
    SPK-930.00
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    Safety Glasses
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    Blazer Big Buddy Turbo Torch, Black
    TRCH-8010
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    • Category: Metalwork
    • Technique(s): Butane Torch Techniques, General Education