How to Determine the Correct Height of a Bezel

by Linda Gale
When making a wire-woven bezel - the 'frame' that is used to hold a gemstone - one of the most frustrating parts of the project is the determination of how 'high' to make the weave. This is further complicated by the type of bezel you plan to make.
Let's explore just how to determine the right height of the bezel for the stone you're working with.
A woven, "netted" bezel wraps around the stone edges.

It comes just under the bottom edge and slightly over the top.

This holds the stone securely.

This open-style bezel lets light pass through the sides. It enhances brilliance.

Use it for clear or translucent stones.
Linda Gale's How to Determine the Correct Height of a Bezel - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Weaving, Wire Weaving, Weaving Wire, beel height
An 'edge-wrapped' bezel is fitted similarly, but it's top and bottom edges may not necessarily require you to extend the wire under the bottom edge, or over the top edge.
This style of bezel is mainly decorative.

The wires on the front and back of the gemstone serve as the actual holders, securing the stone in place and protecting it from being pushed out.

These holding wires can also be an integral part of the design.

Some designs are simple and understated, while others make a bold, striking statement.
Linda Gale's How to Determine the Correct Height of a Bezel - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Weaving, Wire Weaving, Weaving Wire, bezel height
How DO you measure the height?
This style of bezel is mainly decorative. The wires on the front and back of the gemstone serve as the actual holders, securing the stone in place and protecting it from being pushed out.

These holding wires can also be an integral part of the design. Some designs are simple and understated, while others make a bold, striking statement.
Linda Gale's How to Determine the Correct Height of a Bezel - How DO you measure the height?, Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Weaving, Wire Weaving, Weaving Wire, bezel height
With a marking pen near at hand, carefully lay a ruler, or something you could substitute (preferably clear), on top of the stone.

Hole the ruler as level as possible. Mark the wire at the bottom edge of the ruler.
Linda Gale's How to Determine the Correct Height of a Bezel - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Weaving, Wire Weaving, Weaving Wire, bezel height
Remove the cabochon and observe the height of the mark left behind.

I used a fine-point Sharpie, which produces a slightly wider line.

The top of the mark corresponds to the highest point of the stone.

Since the bezel should only slightly overlap the edge, use the lower edge of the mark to determine your measurement.
Measure from the top of the flat wire to the bottom edge of the mark. The stone rests on the wire. Use millimeters for precision.

Use a ruler that starts at zero. If yours doesn't, untape and hold the wire while measuring.

This gives your bezel height.

You're ready to start weaving!

See "Three Ways to Keep Your Weave Railroad Straight" for consistent measurements.

Suggestions for new article topics welcome.
Linda Gale's How to Determine the Correct Height of a Bezel - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Weaving, Wire Weaving, Weaving Wire, bezel height

Materials

20 Gauge Round Dead Soft Copper Wire
H11-20D
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $0.49
  • Gold Club Price: $0.37
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26 Gauge Round Dead Soft Copper Wire
H11-26D
  • Lesson Quantity: 10.00 feet
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 10FT
  • Price: $1.23
  • Gold Club Price: $0.93
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Tools

6 Inch Metal Ruler - in Inches And Centimeters
G7-7
  • G7-7
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $2.97
  • Gold Club Price: $2.23
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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches
PLR-487.00
  • PLR-487.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $16.97
  • Gold Club Price: $12.73
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  • Category: Contemporary
  • Technique(s): Weaving