Differences in Gold Plating
While cleaning and rearranging my bead stash for the 100th time to make it easier to find things-lol-I came across a bag in the back of a drawer that was stuffed full of packages of gold-plated beads purchased years ago when a local variety store went out of business. The beads were made in the United States and labeled as gold-plated over sterling silver. Hmmmmm.
While cleaning and rearranging my bead stash for the 100th time to make it easier to find things-lol-I came across a bag in the back of a drawer that was stuffed full of packages of gold-plated beads purchased years ago when a local variety store went out of business. The beads were made in the United States and labeled as gold-plated over sterling silver. Hmmmmm.
Before using my "newly found" treasures in a project, I thought it would be a good idea to do a test wear comparison to similar gold-plated over brass and gold-plated over mystery metal beads labeled made in (insert other country) that were in my stash. I wondered if there would be a difference in how long the gold plating would last and how harsher conditions might affect the plating.
Since hairdressers work around a lot of chemicals and are in water all the time, I asked my hairdresser to wear two stretch bracelets, one made with gold-plated over sterling silver beads and one made with gold-plated over brass/mystery metal beads, to see what might happen to higher and lower grade plated beads. She took it a step further and NEVER took them off for the month we were testing them.
Similar shape and size beads were used to make both bracelets. Both sets of beads have been in my stash for over 15 years and were not cleaned before use. The larger 6mm laser cut gold-plated over sterling silver beads are much smoother than the 6mm laser cut gold-plated over brass beads. The smooth 4mm gold-plated over mystery metal beads are very similar in color to the 4mm gold-plated over sterling silver beads.
In all the progress photos taken, the bracelet on the left is made with gold-plated over sterling silver beads while the bracelet on the right is made with gold-plated over brass and gold-plated over mystery metal beads.
Before using my "newly found" treasures in a project, I thought it would be a good idea to do a test wear comparison to similar gold-plated over brass and gold-plated over mystery metal beads labeled made in (insert other country) that were in my stash. I wondered if there would be a difference in how long the gold plating would last and how harsher conditions might affect the plating.
Since hairdressers work around a lot of chemicals and are in water all the time, I asked my hairdresser to wear two stretch bracelets, one made with gold-plated over sterling silver beads and one made with gold-plated over brass/mystery metal beads, to see what might happen to higher and lower grade plated beads. She took it a step further and NEVER took them off for the month we were testing them.
Similar shape and size beads were used to make both bracelets. Both sets of beads have been in my stash for over 15 years and were not cleaned before use. The larger 6mm laser cut gold-plated over sterling silver beads are much smoother than the 6mm laser cut gold-plated over brass beads. The smooth 4mm gold-plated over mystery metal beads are very similar in color to the 4mm gold-plated over sterling silver beads.
In all the progress photos taken, the bracelet on the left is made with gold-plated over sterling silver beads while the bracelet on the right is made with gold-plated over brass and gold-plated over mystery metal beads.
Day 1:
The difference in color/finish: The 6mm laser cut gold-plated over brass beads on the right also have a very slight pink cast to them.
Day 14:
Notice the 4mm beads on the right bracelet are now more of a silver color-all the gold appears to be gone. My hairdresser said that beads turned by the fifth day of wearing. I thought it might be tarnish, but dipping in jewelry cleaner for gold, following package directions, did not change the color of the 4mm beads. The bracelet was then dipped in jewelry cleaner for silver with still no change in the beads. The 6mm laser cut stardust beads on the right have become more rose gold in color, which is hard to see in the photo, and did not change color in the cleaning solutions.
Day 33:
The 4mm gold-plated over mystery metal are now a dull grey. The surface is no longer as shiny as it was on Day 14. The 6mm gold-plated over brass beads on the right are noticeably more copper colored with a gold cast. Neither bracelet turned the wrist green, or any other color, but being around water and chemicals all day, it is possible that any skin coloring would be constantly washed off.
Conclusion
The Federal Trade Commission categorizes gold-plating depending on the thickness of the gold coating. Items that are labeled "gold-plated" must have at least a .5 micron thick layer of gold. If the gold coating is .175 microns, the item is considered "gold electroplate" or "gold flashed/washed." Items labeled "heavy gold-plated" must have a layer of gold at least 2.5 microns thick.
I believe the 4mm gold-plated over mystery metal beads were most likely gold flashed/washed because the coating so quickly disappeared.
Research tells me that gold-plated over sterling silver pieces will keep their shine and plating longer than gold-plating over other metals. Most likely if a manufacturer is going to gold-plate over a higher end and expensive metal such as sterling silver, the coating of gold will be thicker or "heavy gold-plated" so as to stand up to years of light use. I think that is why the bracelet made with gold-plated over sterling silver beads looks as good as the day it was made.
Personal opinion: Quality in gold-plating matters. I made myself the same gold-plated over sterling silver bracelet and have been wearing it beside my similar style gold-filled bracelet for several months. Both still look as good as the day they were made. So, any gold-plated beads I purchase in the future will have a sterling silver base. And if for some reason the gold starts to wear off and detracts from the look of the piece made with them, I can take it to a jeweler to have the rest of the gold removed safely and still have a beautiful piece of jewelry to wear. Of course, the surface may need to be smoothed and polished, but that is an easy fix.
I believe the 4mm gold-plated over mystery metal beads were most likely gold flashed/washed because the coating so quickly disappeared.
Research tells me that gold-plated over sterling silver pieces will keep their shine and plating longer than gold-plating over other metals. Most likely if a manufacturer is going to gold-plate over a higher end and expensive metal such as sterling silver, the coating of gold will be thicker or "heavy gold-plated" so as to stand up to years of light use. I think that is why the bracelet made with gold-plated over sterling silver beads looks as good as the day it was made.
Personal opinion: Quality in gold-plating matters. I made myself the same gold-plated over sterling silver bracelet and have been wearing it beside my similar style gold-filled bracelet for several months. Both still look as good as the day they were made. So, any gold-plated beads I purchase in the future will have a sterling silver base. And if for some reason the gold starts to wear off and detracts from the look of the piece made with them, I can take it to a jeweler to have the rest of the gold removed safely and still have a beautiful piece of jewelry to wear. Of course, the surface may need to be smoothed and polished, but that is an easy fix.
Materials
8x6mm Gold Plated Oval Snapset for Faceted Gemstone - Pack of 5
N2-12
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $1.99
- Gold Club Price: $1.49
Tools
WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5
G15-20
- G15-20
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $170.72
- Gold Club Price: $128.04
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- Category: General Education
- Technique(s): General Education
Judy Larson
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