Differences in Gold Plating

by Judy Larson
While cleaning and rearranging my bead stash for the 100th time to make it easier to find things-lol-I came across a bag in the back of a drawer that was stuffed full of packages of gold-plated beads purchased years ago when a local variety store went out of business. The beads were made in the United States and labeled as gold-plated over sterling silver. Hmmmmm.
While cleaning and rearranging my bead stash yet again, I found a bag full of gold-plated beads purchased years ago when a local variety store went out of business.

These beads were made in the USA and labeled as gold-plated over sterling silver. Before using them, I decided to test how they compare to similar gold-plated beads over brass and mystery metals from other countries.

I wanted to see how long the plating would last and how harsher conditions might affect it.

Since hairdressers work around chemicals and water all the time, I asked my hairdresser to wear two stretch bracelets one made with gold-plated over sterling silver beads and one with gold-plated over brass/mystery metal beads to test durability.

She didn't take them off for the entire month of testing.

Both bracelets used similar-shaped and sized beads, all from my stash for over 15 years and not cleaned before use. The larger 6mm gold-plated over sterling silver beads are much smoother than the brass ones. The smooth 4mm gold-plated over mystery metal beads closely match the color of the 4mm gold-plated over sterling silver beads.

In the progress photos, the bracelet on the left is gold-plated over sterling silver, while the one on the right is gold-plated over brass and mystery metal.
Day 1:
The difference in color/finish: The 6mm laser cut gold-plated over brass beads on the right also have a very slight pink cast to them.
Judy Larson's Differences in Gold Plating - Day 1:, General Education, , differences in gold plating
Day 14:
Notice the 4mm beads on the right bracelet have turned silver the gold plating is completely gone.

My hairdresser said the beads changed color by the fifth day of wearing.

I thought it might be tarnish, so I dipped the bracelet in gold jewelry cleaner following the package directions, but the color didn't change.

Next, I tried silver jewelry cleaner with no effect.

The 6mm laser-cut stardust beads on the right turned more rose gold, which is hard to see in the photo, and also didn't react to the cleaning solutions.
Judy Larson's Differences in Gold Plating - Day 14:, General Education, , Notice the 4mm beads on the right bracelet have turned silver
Day 33:
By Day 14, the 4mm gold-plated over mystery metal beads have dulled to a grey color and lost their shine.

The 6mm gold-plated over brass beads on the right have taken on a more coppery hue with a gold cast.

Neither bracelet caused the wearer's wrist to turn green or any other color. However, since she was around water and chemicals all day, any skin discoloration might have been washed away.
Judy Larson's Differences in Gold Plating - Day 33:, General Education, , Neither bracelet caused the wearer's wrist to turn green or any
Conclusion
The Federal Trade Commission categorizes gold-plating by the thickness of the gold layer.

Items labeled "gold-plated" must have at least a 0.5-micron gold coating. If the coating is 0.175 microns, it's considered "gold electroplate" or "gold flashed/washed."

"Heavy gold-plated" items have a gold layer at least 2.5 microns thick.

I believe the 4mm gold-plated over mystery metal beads were likely gold flashed/washed, which explains why the coating disappeared so quickly.

Research shows gold-plated over sterling silver pieces maintain their shine and plating longer than gold-plated over other metals. Manufacturers often use thicker or heavy gold plating on sterling silver to ensure durability over years of light use.

That's why the bracelet made with gold-plated over sterling silver beads still looks as good as the day it was made.

Personal opinion: quality in gold-plating matters. I made myself the same gold-plated over sterling silver bracelet and have worn it alongside a similar gold-filled bracelet for months. Both still look like new.

From now on, I'll only buy gold-plated beads with a sterling silver base. If the gold wears off, I can have the remaining gold safely removed by a jeweler and still enjoy a beautiful piece. The surface may need smoothing and polishing, but that's an easy fix.

Materials

8x6mm Gold Plated Oval Snapset for Faceted Gemstone - Pack of 5
N2-12
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $1.99
  • Gold Club Price: $1.49
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Tools

WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5
G15-20
  • G15-20
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $170.72
  • Gold Club Price: $128.04
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  • Category: General Education
  • Technique(s): General Education