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- Featured Tool: Bracelet Bending Plier
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Free Pattern: Leather and Chain Maille Bracelet by Kylie Jones
by Judy Ellis, Wirejewelry.com
Wire Jewelry Pattern for June 29th, 2017
Leather and Chain Maille Bracelet
by Kylie Jones
This modern bracelet is great for women and men. It uses stainless steel chain maille pieces that are wire wrapped to the leather to create a Viking style look. The material list for this bracelet makes an 8″ bracelet.
- 18g AWG 1mm ID 5/32″ 4.1mm jump rings (Pattern Quantity – 19 Pieces)
- 18g AWG 1mm ID 3/16″ 5mm jump rings (Pattern Quantity – 57 Pieces)
- 18g AWG 1mm)ID 1/4″ 6.4mm jump rings (Pattern Quantity – 4 Pieces)
- 26 Gauge Round Stainless Steel Craft Wire – 90 ft (Pattern Quantity – 36 Inches, Product ID: H18-F26-90FT)
- 15mm lobster clasp (Pattern Quantity – 1 Piece)
- 4mm round black leather (Pattern Quantity – 6.75 Inches)
- Flat Nose Wire Plier (Pattern Quantity – 2 Pieces, Product ID: G2-506)
- 5 inch Plato Slim Flush Cutters for Wire Working or Beading – Pack of 1 (Pattern Quantity – 1 Piece, Product ID: G35-3)
- 5 Piece Steel Mandrel Set (Pattern Quantity – 1 Piece, Product ID: G7-5)
Step 1: Place 2 closed 5/32″ rings on an open 3/16″ ring and close the ring.
Step 2: With an open 3/16″ ring go through 1 of the 2 rings from step 1.
Add a closed 5/32″ ring and close the ring.
Step 3: Join this chain into a ring by taking an open 3/16″ ring and going through both end rings, close the ring.
Step 4: Place the bamboo skewer in the center of the chain, making sure to not go through any of the rings. Position the rings as in the photo with the 3 larger rings towards the point of the mandrel. This chain is now 2 rows of round maille, with the first row being the smaller rings and the 2nd row the larger rings.
Step 5: To begin adding the 3rd row take an open 3/16″ ring and go through 2 rings from the 2nd row that are next to each other, right at the point where they meet. Close the ring. You can lightly wire wrap the piece to the mandrel if this makes it easier.
Step 6: Take another open 3/16″ ring and go through the next 2 rings at the point where they meet. Close the ring.
Step 7: Take another open 3/16″ ring and go through the last place on the previous row where 2 rings meet. Close the ring. The round maille piece is now 3 rows long.
Step 8: Add another row to this piece by taking an open 3/16″ ring and going through 2 rings that are next to each other at the point where they meet and close the ring. Add 2 more rings in the same way to complete the row.
Step 9: Continue to add rows with the 3/16″ rings until you have a total of 16 rows, this includes the first row with the smaller rings. Add a final 17th row with the smaller 5/32″ rings. This round maille piece now has a row at each end with the smaller rings.
Step 10: To make the end caps for the bracelet repeat steps 1-7 then add the 4th row with the smaller 5/32″ rings. This gives you a piece 4 rows long with a row of smaller rings at each end. Make 2 end caps.
Step 11: Thread the leather through the center of the large chain maille piece in the same place where the mandrel was. Position the chain maille with equal distance to the ends of the leather.
To begin wrapping one end of the chain maille, take the wire and leaving a 1″ (2.5cm) tail make a wrap around the leather at the point where the chain maille ends. The tail end should be on the side of the chain maille and the long end towards the end of the bracelet.
Make this as tight as you can and keep wrapping the tail so there are 2-3 wraps. Trim the tail and squash the end flat.
Step 12: Now with the long end go down through one of the rings from the end row of chain maille.
Keeping the wire as neat as possible do the same with the 2 other end rings. If you find it hard to keep the wire straight when pulling through the rings you can use the bamboo skewer to guide the wire. Go through each of the rings again.
Continue the wire wrapping on the leather, keeping the coils as close as possible. Make about 8 wraps. Trim the wire and squash the end flat with your pliers. You can add a tiny drop of glue onto the end to stop it from catching on clothes.
Step 13: Attach the other end of the chain maille in exactly the same way.
Step 14: Thread one of the small end caps onto the end of the leather so that the last row is only just on the leather. The end that is wrapped is the end closest to the center of the bracelet. The tail of the wire is closest to the end of the leather and the wraps go towards the center of the bracelet. This is done in the same way as before. For the end caps I make the tail a bit longer and do about 4 wraps instead of 2 as this area can be put under stress. Attach the other end cap.
Step 15: To finish the ends take an open 1/4″ jump ring and start to add a new row of round maille by going through 2 rings from the last row that are next to each other. Do this once more so there are 2 rings in the new row and leave the third space empty. For the second end attach the clasp to both of these large rings with one of the 5/32″ rings.