Daily Wire Tip Dec. 11: Trillion Ring Designs

By on December 11, 2010
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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
December 11, 2010


I have several 12mm trillion stones that I would like to use somehow. I have searched the internet and books and I have not found any ring designs that use trillion stones. I also cannot find any snap sets that will fit these stones. Any ideas? The only idea I have come up with is to make a standard prong design ring and make one side of the prongs longer than the other. Do you think that would work? Any help would be appreciated.

-Barb in Vancouver, Washington


Yes Barb, to make the trillion stones you mention into rings, I would use the prong ring method, making one prong on each end a bit longer (using the formulation in the DVD). As they are 12mm on each side, I would use 22-gauge wire, because when it is folded in half the prongs will not cover too much of the stone. The prongs on the widest point could be made as long as 3mm, while the ones that will go on the more narrow point I would make 2mm long.

Example of a trillion stone:

Trillion Cut Stone

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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  1. avatar


    December 11, 2010 at 9:56 am

    Why couldn’t you do three prongs one at each point??

    • avatar


      December 11, 2010 at 4:58 pm

      Terry, setting any stone by putting the prong over the point is difficult to say the least (even for advanced wire workers) as with wire you are always in danger of breaking the point off when pressing the prong onto the stone.

  2. avatar

    Patricia Whitlow

    December 11, 2010 at 10:06 am

    Trillon stones are used to offset many center stones and make them look larger and more noticeable. They are lovely accent pieces and work well with many different cut stones, one on either side. I have seen them used with rounds, princes, and emerald cuts. I especially like them with the cushion cuts as a center piece. They are lovely and I have seen them used in a bracelet reversing every other one.

  3. avatar

    Joe Barela

    December 11, 2010 at 3:14 pm

    Hello, just thought I would add my 2 cents here. I have also found trillion stones to be harder to get settings for. As for how to make mounts for them; on the larger stones, 10-12-13mm etc, I like to make a six prong setting with shorter prong bends. I do this with one prong stationed on each side of each point (corner) close proximity to the end of the corner, for each corner. This allows a secure hold while covering very little of the stone. This works best with sharp corner cut trillion stones (stones whose sides are straight, not bowed out or convex). But it will always work for both convex and straight sides. Some people refer to this as double prong or paired prong settings. Always be sure to round off the end of the prongs before setting the stone for a more professional look.
    Another style of setting I sometimes use is a belt prong. It is done also on the corners of the trillion stone. The difference is that the prongs are actually a loop of round wire; half hard, and its looped over the corner and slid on till it is tight. This style works best on the straight sided stones. It also looks even better if U use a square wire that is twisted and then formed into the loop. Remember to give the “loop prong” a single twist below the rim line of the stone prior to setting the stone. I have even done this with double wire one round and the other (square-twisted) on each corner of larger stones, using thinner wires and it looks very nice but is much harder to do. ….JB

    • avatar


      December 11, 2010 at 5:06 pm

      Joe – thanks so much for sharing your different styles of wire prong ideas! (When I have time I am going to try the ‘belt’ prong.)

  4. avatar


    December 11, 2010 at 4:42 pm

    Dale, Thanks for the prong length tip. I too have a few trillion cut stones and had planned to make prong rings from them.

    I haven’t made them because I’m not clear on something. The prong ring is made with 4 prongs. There are only 3 sides to the trillion cut stone and they’re normally the same length. How do you distribute the prongs, 2-1-1? Is it possible to make just a 3-prong ring? Thank you.

    • avatar


      December 11, 2010 at 5:02 pm

      Natalie, the easiest way to make the prong setting for a trillion stone would be to put 1 prong near the top of one side and one prong on the same side, but near the bottom (so 2 prongs on each of two sides) leaving the very top (horizontal) bare. When wrapping the side wires over the prong (on the same side the wire is coming from) and just under the girdle to connect around the prong on the opposite side, this wire will keep the top from slipping out of the setting.

  5. avatar

    Buddy Rice

    December 12, 2010 at 12:04 am

    I would love to see an example of that!!! Wow! What talented people read these e-mails.

  6. avatar


    December 12, 2010 at 1:30 am

    Thanks everyone for your great ideas. I think I was on the right track, but now I am more confident to try to do something with my trillion stones. I printed out all your answers for future reference. I appreciate all the help. I will post a photo on the Wire-sculpture Facebook page when I get a piece done. If anyone has photos of any completed trillion pieces I would love to see them.

  7. avatar

    Joe Barela

    December 12, 2010 at 7:26 pm

    Hello again, I am responding to TERRY’S question. Hi Terry, U asked: “Why couldn’t you do three prongs one at each point??” the answer is simple, because the prongs will simply slip off position while wearing the ring and the stone would come out and potentially be lost. And that is if U could get it to stay in place at all. The solution is the paired prog or belt prong methode I described in my description. The paired prongs just sit on each side of the corners, acting in place of a single prong. Think of it as a wide prong that has been split. Since one prog is on the left and one on the right of the corner the stone cannot easily turn and slip even if the ring is abused. The belt prong can be even more stable and the design possibilities are increased. Just think, U could use 2 or more belts on each corner with each wire a different metal combination, like silver, gold, rose-gold, copper, and U could even incorperate in place of one of the wires a fine chain. Just have fun….JB

    • avatar


      December 13, 2010 at 1:26 am

      Sound really good Joe – thanks for your response to Terry.